· MIDDLE EAST · JORDAN ·
How to Visit the Roman Ruins of Jerash, Jordan – A Guide
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 25 Aug 2024
Jordan is, surprisingly, home to some of the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy – the ancient city of Jerash. Here, we talk about the best ways to visit, how to get there, what there is to see, where to stay overnight, things to know and more, to help you plan the perfect trip!
The intricate Greco-Roman architecture of the Jerash ruins is truly spectacular. With over 2000 years of history on display, it is a scene that lingers in my mind. It would not be out of place somewhere in Italy, I tell myself, yet here I am, road tripping through the Middle East, surrounded by classical Roman columns, temples, and fountains. There is even the ubiquitous paved Roman road through the remnants of the old city.
Named Gerasa in ancient times, the ruined city of Jerash is the second most popular tourist destination in Jordan, after Petra. This surprised us – it was so quiet, beautiful, and the vendors were not excessively aggressive to tourists, contrary to our experience at Petra.
The Roman Ruins at Jerash make for an epic Jordan day trip from Amman, or as part of a larger self-driving loop including Umm Qais, Madaba, or the Dead Sea. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is an essential addition to any Jordan itinerary!
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Our Experience and a Little Jerash History
So, I’m going to be honest. I’d never heard of Jerash before I visited Jordan. I would definitely not describe myself as a history buff (despite this, I absolutely adore archaeological ruins for some bizarre reason).
Reading about this ruined city left me astounded. It was a hugely significant settlement back in the day; prime placement on King’s Highway meant that it was incredibly prosperous and had very grand architecture. This made me uneasy on the drive in; all this fascinating history, with gladiators, chariots and beautiful structures was bound to bring the crowds in droves. I’d also read that it was Jordan’s second most popular tourist attraction after Petra. None of this bodes well when you are as anti-people as I am.
I had no need to worry. The car park was empty when we arrived early in the morning. The only man present insisted we park our car right up next to the single restaurant on site; I suspect this was a ploy to get us to eat there when our visit was over. He was friendly though, and it didn’t bother us.
I digress.
The region around Jerash has been inhabited for more than 8000 years, but the city of Jerash itself can be explicitly traced back via Greek Inscriptions to Alexander the Great, around 331 BCE. These inscriptions indicate that the city was called Gerasa, which was in honour of the first inhabitants, Alexander the Great’s retired Macedonian soldiers (Gerasmenos in Greek means ‘aged people’, so I’m told).
After the Roman conquest in 64 BCE, many more structures were built, and by the 3rd century around 20,000 people were believed to have resided in the city of Jerash.
The Galilee earthquake around 749 CE marks the initial decline of the ancient city. The city was used as a Crusader garrison in the 12th century, then abandoned, and the entire city was hidden under sand until excavation began in 1925. Half of the ancient city is yet to be excavated.
In the present day, the Roman ruins are surrounded by a modern, Middle Eastern city; a beautiful dichotomy.
ROMAN RUINS OF JERASH: AT A GLANCE
ENTRANCE FEE – 10 JOD (CHILDREN FREE) OR FREE WITH JORDAN PASS. 0.5 JOD FOR JORDANIANS.
PARKING – FREE
HIGHLIGHTS – WILDFLOWERS IN SPRING, JERASH FESTIVAL IN JULY/AUGUST
FOUNDED – 3RD CENTURY BCE
FIRST EXCAVATED – 1925
OPENING HOURS – NOV-MAR: 8AM-4PM; APR-MAY: 8AM-5:30PM; JUN-OCT: 8AM-6:30PM; RAMADAN: 8:30AM-6PM
HOW LONG – HALF A DAY
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TIPS FOR DRIVING IN JORDAN | HOW MUCH DOES A TRIP TO JORDAN COST?
Do You Need a Guide for the Ruins?
A lot of people recommend you get guide for Jerash. We did not do this and do not think it is necessary (we are the thriftiest type of budget traveller. though. plus love our solitude). With Google and some basic research, we find that most archaeological sites are more enjoyable alone, however we understand that this stance is subjective.
English speaking guides hang around Hadrian’s Arch and the South Gate if you would like to hire one. Organised tours often include a guide – check when you book.
Where are the Jerash Roman Ruins?
The city of Jerash, Jordan, and its namesake archaeological site are 48 kilometres north of Amman, near the mountains of Gilead, reached by good condition, paved roads. It’s less than an hour to reach the ruins by car and is easy to find on Google.
How to Get from Amman to Jerash
Most flights arrive into Queen Alia International Airport, 30km south of Amman so this is a common starting point for many people. From the airport or city, it is a reasonably simple task to get to Jerash.
By Bus | public buses run between Jerash and Amman regularly throughout the day until early evening. These can be found in the Tarbarbour north bus terminal in Amman. Less than an hour long, the journey costs 1 JOD each way and the bus stops near the ruins. Make sure you pay on the bus, not on the street. The buses leave when full, so there’s no timetable. Be cautious of taxi scams near the bus station – there are many tales of people being ripped off. Use an app like Uber if you can.
By Taxi | expect to pay at least 20 JOD for a one-way journey to Jerash. There is no need to keep your driver if you don’t want, it is easy to hail another down to take you back. Your hotel can organise a taxi or they can just be found on the street.
Car Hire in Jordan | many international tourists hire vehicles in Jordan from the airport outside Amman, where most global rental companies operate. From the airport, Jerash is around 1.5 hours away (you’ll likely hit a bit of traffic on this route – we recommend you add some time into your schedule to account for this). To go directly to the archaeological site, search for ‘Jerash Visitor Free Car Parking’ on Google Maps.
A day tour to Jerash | there are lots of tours that include Jerash on their itinerary, however if you are looking for a tour that exclusively goes to Jerash and nowhere else, you’d be better off driving, grabbing a taxi or bus and doing it yourself.
CAR HIRE FOR YOUR JORDAN TRIP
We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trips in Oman, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia, Jordan and Morocco, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.
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TAKE A LOOK BELOW OR CHECK CAR RENTAL
Best Time to Visit the Ruins at Jerash
When considering what time of year is best to visit Jerash, all seasons have their benefits!
Spring | between March and May, not only is the weather pleasantly mild but the wildflowers come out in full, stunning bloom. They really are a spectacle, and we would fully encourage you to visit this region just for the flowers alone!
Summer | at the end of July and beginning of August, the multi-day Jerash Festival is held on the grounds of the archaeological site. This annual occasion is one of the biggest cultural events in the region attracting more than 100,000 people to the area. The Jerash Festival showcases the arts, including singers, musicians, poetry, theatre, and handicrafts. Be aware, it’s scorching hot during the middle of summer.
Winter | this can be quite cold with some rain, so take a warm, waterproof jacket and sensible shoes. On a positive note, there are very few tourists.
No matter the time of year, the best time to visit ruins at Jerash is at opening time. Getting there early meant we were first in the car park and alone for most of the morning (we went in April).
Jerash Roman Ruins Map and Landmarks
There are particular named structures and areas you should visit when touring the Roman ruins. Although Jerash is quite large, there is a circular walking route around the ancient city so you can’t get lost or miss any of it. Despite this route, it is also possible to walk wherever you want. Here are a few things to keep a look out for along your walk (if you do not have a guide):
Hadrian’s Arch (or Triumphal Arch) | built in 129 CE. This is the largest arch in the Roman Empire at 20m tall and 25m across. It was built to commemorate the visit of Emperor Hadrian.
Hippodrome | built around 300 CE, this was used for chariot racing with audiences of up to 15000-17000 and is 265 metres long. It was also used as an arena for gladiator fighting. Re-enactments of various chariot related activities commonly happen here.
Temple of Zeus | built around 162 CE, overlooking the Oval Forum with outstanding views across the ruins and modern-day city.
South Gate | constructed in 130 CE. Originally one of four gates along the walls, it leads to the Oval Forum, with 56 8-metre-high columns in an oval shaped plaza.
South Theatre | built around 100 CE, this 3000-5000 capacity venue is the larger of the two theatres, situated next to the Temple of Zeus.
Cardo Maximus | this is the main thoroughfare through the city (also called the colonnaded street) and is about 800m long. The paving stones are diagonally placed so that chariots would not get their wheels stuck. It would have originally been lined with various stalls, vendors, and shops.
Nymphaeum | built in 191 CE as the main fountain of the city. These types of structure were traditionally shrines to water Nymphs in classical Greek and Roman culture. The Jerash nymphaeum is made from seven lion heads from which pour the water into a basin below.
North Theatre | built around 165 CE. This was our favourite bit of the city. It’s a smaller theatre, similar to the South Theatre, and is still used for performances and events to this day. It’s in exceptional condition!
Temple of Artemis | built 136 CE on the highest point in the city. Artemis is the Greek goddess of wild animals, hunting, vegetation and childbirth. Animal sacrifices were often done here, and the building featured an airflow design to keep the odour of dead animals from lingering, even in warm weather.
Tips for Visiting the Ruins at Jerash
Sun protection | bring a hat and sunblock in summer.
Sustenance | bring water, water filter (to save on the plastic bottles), snacks. All the essentials.
Sensible shoes | you could absolutely wander around the Roman ruins in flip flops if you want, as long as you are comfortable walking up steep, narrow steps in places like the theatres. Otherwise, I would suggest anything comfortable (this site is very easy to walk around, but a little uneven underfoot).
Appropriate clothing | remember that Jordan is a Muslim country and although the Jerash ruins are technically not a religious site, it’s best to err on the side of caution and cover your shoulders and knees to be respectful.
Bathrooms | these are in the souvenir centre. There are also bathrooms in the Jerash Visitor Centre further north into the site along the roadside. You can get water to filter here too.
Anybody who talks to you will want money | this is a sad reality at several of Jordan’s tourist attractions. They often have very interesting information but will expect to be tipped for it at the end. Be aware.
Vendors | within the souvenir centre, vendors can be a little aggressive. This is a building that you must pass through to reach the entrance to the ruins. If you do not intend to purchase anything, just ignore everyone and get out the other side as soon as you can!
Car parking | this was free and safe. It can be busy with buses if you arrive at the wrong time of day.
Jordan Pass | buy one of these before you arrive in the country. Attractions in Jordan are mostly reasonably priced but if you intend to go to Petra and Wadi Rum then you absolutely need one – it’s a steal. Jerash is included with the pass.
Restaurants | there is one on the Jerash site – we did not visit but it looked perfectly pleasant. If you are after a more high-end meal nearby, Lebanese House comes highly recommended for traditional Lebanese food.
Jerash Archaeology Museum | this is included in your ticket price. It has mosaics, glass, jewellery, coins, sarcophagi, statues plus Jerash history. It’s a great addition to a day at the Jerash Roman ruins.
WHERE TO STAY NEAR JERASH
Most tourists visiting Jerash will stay in one of the major hubs: Amman, Madaba, the Dead Sea, or Jerash itself (depending on your itinerary).
AMMAN
Visiting from Amman is the best choice if you are tight on time or have no private transport.
We’ve stayed in a few Amman hotels and would recommend:
Luxury | W Amman. (I know this is an international, branded hotel, but we had a free night there through points). It was amazing, especially the crazy included breakfast and 28th floor views.
Mid-range | New MerryLand Hotel. Functional, very friendly and clean, with a decent location within walking distance of most sights. This is the one I’d choose if I went back today – it’s smashing value for money.
Budget | for the true budget travellers out there, Cliff Hostel is the place to go. For a classier but still cheap option, consider Nomads Hotel or the Cabin Hostel.
JERASH
Staying in the city of Jerash works well if you visit in the afternoon and are heading north or west the next day. We recommend:
Full Panorama to Archaeological Site Jerash | very popular, truly excellent value rooms, right next to the Roman ruins with excellent views of the city.
MADABA
Madaba is a little south of Amman and if you are heading there after your trip to Jerash, then we would suggest:
Mount Nebo Hotel | fantastic food, beautiful décor and worth every penny. Possibly our favourite hotel in Jordan.
THE DEAD SEA
The other option is staying in the Dead Sea area after your trip to the Jerash Ruins. This makes sense if you are heading towards Wadi Mujib, the Dana reserve and Kerak Castle. It’s all a bit resort-like around the north end of the Dead Sea, so if you must pick a hotel there, we recommend:
The Kempinski | high-end, but actually nice, unlike a lot of the others in the area which have ants and are a bit run down for the extortionate pricing.
Final Thoughts – Jerash, Jordan
Jerash, despite being one of the more popular tourist destinations in Jordan, does not have anywhere near the reputation or crowds as Petra. There’s also no animal cruelty that I could see, minimal vendors and such an amazingly peaceful vibe. It’s also a great location for photography if that is your jam, especially during wildflower season.
We highly endorse making time in your Jordan itinerary to visit the Roman ruins at Jerash.
Have a great trip!
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Thank you, Claire + Nick
Exactly the information I needed
Muito bom! Gratidão pela ajuda!