· PHOTOGRAPHY · AFRICA · TUNISIA ·
Magical Medina of Sousse – Tunisia’s Most Photogenic Old Town
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 25 Aug 2024
The UNESCO designated Medina of Sousse does not get enough love (in my humble opinion). It’s one of our favourite spots in Tunisia, with its stereotype blue and white design, dramatically jutting up against the ocean. Read on for a little description of what there is to do, and some photos!
Tunisia’s towns and cities are bursting with charismatic markets and bazaars; their ever-present buzz is pervasive. Packed with twisting, cobbled alleyways, perfumed souqs, nomadic felines and bold political street art, these medinas boast the ubiquitous blue and white, picturesque architecture seen in magazines. Interspersed with Mediterranean tiles and European window shutters, they deliver truly multicultural characteristics, unique to northern Africa.
Medina, literally meaning ‘city’ in Arabic, is a term used across Maghreb countries to denote the ancient Arabic quarter of a city or town. Conventionally a compact, walled area, they contained markets, housing, mosques, plus local services like blacksmiths and other specialist trades.
Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, hosts the country’s legendary and most eminent historic quarter. This medina gets all the glory; however, the real praise belongs to the Medina of Sousse, 145 kilometres south of Tunis which is, without a doubt, the star of the show (in our opinion).
This post is just a little (unpoetic) love-letter to the Medina of Sousse; justifying why we favour it, accompanied by some slightly less-than-traditional photos and list of a few lovely things to do when visiting.
IN THIS GUIDE //
The Medina of Sousse
WHY VISIT THE MEDINA OF SOUSSE?
– WHY WE LOVED THE MEDINA OF SOUSSE
THINGS TO SEE IN THE MEDINA OF SOUSSE
MINI HISTORY OF SOUSSE
GETTING TO THE MEDINA OF SOUSSE
WHERE TO STAY IN SOUSSE
MAP OF THE MEDINA
TOURS TO THE MEDINA OF SOUSSE
BONUS SECOND PLACE – THE KAIROUAN MEDINA
FINAL THOUGHTS
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Why Visit the Medina of Sousse?
Lots of tourists visit Sousse (it’s a popular beach destination for European visitors). Despite this, few people venture out to experience day-to-day life in the city’s cultural heart – the medina.
The Medina of Sousse is one of eight UNESCO designated sites in Tunisia. It is a historically significant, exemplary regional example of a seaward-facing military fortification. Inscribed by UNESCO in 1988, the medina dates back to the 9th century CE.
It’s bounded by colossal, 2.5 kilometre-long, eight-metre-high sandstone walls, complete with ramparts and square battlements. Sitting in the shadow of the crenelated walls, a tight-knit tangle of streets, punctuated by dead ends, slope towards the large contemporary Mediterranean port.
The modern-day medina still houses around 35 thousand permanent residents, which is a huge number considering the age of the structures and the relatively compact area it occupies. Despite being a place where 21st century people live and work every day, it has retained its practical and structural authenticity, still giving off vibes of a bygone time.
I read that the medina area is home to 24 mosques – 12 for men and 12 for women. I didn’t spot all 24 during our visit though!
Why We Loved the Medina of Sousse
We arrived at the medina by car, parking (for free) adjacent to five other cars in the vast, empty car park at the Museum of Archaeology in the kasbah. This is one of the wonders of Tunisia: most places, even within major cities, have abundant free-of-charge spaces for cars.
We ambled along the main street parallel to the kasbah, passing official-looking UNESCO signs for the medina and dipping under the trees for shade as we headed towards the large walled gate.
On entering, we were met with some intensely powerful graffiti that was situated, ironically, next to a small police station. Furrowed older men sat smoking on the curbs or leaning on cars while cats darted between our feet. Nobody appeared to notice us as we walked down the narrow steps that led into the heart of the old quarter.
The subsequent hours spent wandering around the Medina of Sousse were magical. I’m not going to list off why the famous buildings are incredible; this is common knowledge and can be read on any blog (or the UNESCO site!). Despite everything being (predictably) beautiful, it was really the residents, a lack of tourists and the low-key chill that were the highlight.
There were the typical shadowy, claustrophobic, shoulder-to-shoulder sensations of a traditional medina, but without so much of the sensory exhaustion mixed in. The Medina of Sousse had all the riotous charm and colourful personalities we had hoped for, with none of the hassle. Nobody barked prices at us and there were no attempts to grab me. It was all welcoming smiles and waves.
We could stop and look at the wares and chat with vendors without expectation of a purchase. Avoid the carpet/textile shops though if you’re not looking to buy – it’s the one (very friendly) tourist trap we found here!
REASONS TO LOVE THE MEDINA OF SOUSSE
« No hassle from any vendors »
« The most smiley people in Tunisia »
« Quiet, completely empty areas where you can just wander around alone »
« Incredible Ribat and Mosque architecture »
« Substantial, world class museum, worth visiting »
« Easy to navigate without a guide – you won’t get lost »
« It felt very safe, both on a personal level and as a woman »
« One of the most ‘genuine’ places we visited in Tunisia »
« Minimal tourist souvenir tat »
« People actually live there »
« Utterly non-stressful – even for the uninitiated »
« Zero tourists, literally (that we saw) »
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BACKPACKING TUNISIA GUIDE | TUNISIA ITINERARY
PHOTOGRAPHY AT THE MEDINA
Personally, I found that photography at Sousse’s medina was far easier at the beginning of the day, when the streets are calm and the temperatures are lower.
We didn’t feel that our cameras were bothering anyone, but at the same time, didn’t take many photos of people, because sometimes it just feels imposing, doesn’t it? This feeling is particularly prevalent when we are walking through people’s homes.
I’m also extra careful in Muslim countries about street/travel photography, because it’s common for people to be very camera-shy, especially women.
We’d highly recommend asking for permission if you want a specific photo of a person, and never take photos of kids.
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RELATED POST | HOW TO BE A RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER
Things to See and Do in the Medina of Sousse
Sousse Archaeological Museum | the most important museum in Tunisia after the Bardo Museum in Tunis, containing a significant collection of antiquities.
Bab II Gharbi | the western gate of the Medina of Sousse, noted for its use of machicolation (a way for defenders to fire directly down at the foot of the structure).
Ribat of Sousse | a 38 square meter, 8th century fort that contains an impressive a 35-metre-high watchtower. Featuring a square courtyard, multiple towers and a prayer hall which remains in its original form. 7 TND (£1.75) entry for adults.
Sousse Kasbah | a medieval, 11th century Arabic fortress in the south-west corner of the medina with a 30 metre lighthouse that’s not home to the archaeological Museum of Sousse.
Market Bab Jadid | a large market selling a wide-ranging variety of good including fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, ceramics and the other usual market odds and ends.
Have some mint tea | at one of the numerous cosy tea rooms and cafes.
Musee El Kobba | a cute little museum using life size dolls to show off traditional clothing and life – 2 TND (£0.50) entry fee for adults.
Sample the souqs | located within the 9th century Medina of Sousse, Souq El Ribba and the more westerly Souq El Kayed are great, busy markets for exploring. You’ll find dried fruits, vegetables, piles of vibrantly coloured spices, gold, leather and crockery quarters, shoes, carpets and more.
Bu Fatata and the Great Mosque | two 9th century mosques built within 20 years of each other. The Grand Mosque, built adjacent to the ribat by the Aghlabids in 851 CE, has an austere design. The Bu Fatata Mosque is much smaller in comparison and both are adorned with bevelled Kufic inscriptions on their facades.
Zaouia Zakkah | a 17th century distinctive octagonal tower, with blue and green tiles on its facade, exhibits traditional Ottoman design. Below the tower lies a mosque and a mausoleum with over 15,000 graves.
MINI-HISTORY OF SOUSSE
Sousse, dubbed the ‘pearl of the Sahel’, was founded by the Tyrians around the 11th century BCE and was originally named Hadrumetum.
This ancient city was conquered and razed by Arab armies during the Islamic conquests of the Mahgreb in the 7th century CE. It was then repopulated as a small outpost of the Islamic Mahgrebi capital of Kairouan.
The city proper was rebuilt by the Islamic Aghlabid Dynasty in 859 CE, subsequently retitling the city ‘Susa’. It then became their prosperous naval capital.
A large coastal fort (the ribat) was built at the end of the 8th century CE to protect the outpost from marauding Byzantines, pirates and other seafaring invaders.
The city was subject to various conquerings and conquests over the following millennia; it changed between Norman, Spanish and Ottoman control. In 1881, it was finally colonised by the French and renamed ‘Sousse’.
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Getting to the Medina of Sousse
The city of Sousse is very simple to reach, either by plane, rental car, train or minibus/louage.
By air | the nearest airport to Sousse is Monastir’s Habib Bourguiba International Airport, just a 20-minute drive to Sousse’s centre.
By louage | louages are a kind of public minibus service that can zip you all across Tunisia in a matter of hours and for only a few pounds. Enquire about where your local louage station is from your accommodation choice.
Car rental | if you choose to rent a car in Tunisia (this is our recommendation), the roads are straightforward to drive. If travelling from Tunis, the route is obvious and in great condition. For the Medina of Sousse, we parked at the Archaeological Museum (parking was super easy there).
We rented a car for a month in Tunisia and found driving to be a pleasure. We hire all our cars, including our several rentals in Tunisia, through Discover Cars. We highly recommend them – their insurance is top-notch and reliable (from personal experience).
By train | trains run from Tunis, Sfax and, indirectly, further afield from Gabes, Gafsa, El Kef and more. The train in Sousse stops right outside the medina at Sousse Bab Jadid station.
CAR HIRE FOR YOUR TUNISIA TRIP
We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trips in Oman, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia, Jordan and Morocco, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.
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Where to Stay in Sousse
There are several options for where to stay to visit Sousse.
Beach resorts | the area around Sousse is known for beachy fun and perfect if you are visiting predominantly for a beachy holiday. The nicest one is the Iberostar Selection Diar El Andalous (not that we’ve ever had the chance to stay!).
If you are on an adventure around Tunisia and are looking for a more local stay, consider staying in a dar nearby the medina. We stayed in Sousse twice and recommend:
Budget | Hotel Paris – very basic but super affordable, great reviews, friendly helpful staff, superb location.
Mid | Dar Lekbira Boutique Hotel – lovely architecture, heaps of character, medina location, peaceful vibes, great staff – we’d highly recommend this one for the price.
Mid/upper | Dar Antonia – super quirky design, unique style, incredible breakfast, central location. I fell totally in love with the distinctive design here.
Monastir | around 25 kilometres away from the Medina of Sousse, Monastir is a great place to stay for day trips to the city. There are beach resorts that run along the coast between the two cities and also accommodation options in central Monastir, which are in close proximity to another historical building, the Monastir Ribat.
Day trip | it is also possible to day trip to Sousse from Tunis – it’s around a two-hour drive. These day trips can be done either via an organised tour or independently with a rental car.
Map of the Medina
Below is a savable Google Map of everything mentioned in this Sousse Medina post.
Orange markers are things to do and see in the medina.
Green icons are nearby hotel suggestions.
To save the map to your Google Maps, click on the star icon by the title.
Tours to the Medina of Sousse
You may not have the time, inclination or option to travel to the Medina of Sousse independently. However, there are loads of amazing day trips that can take you from Tunis. Many of these can show you all the sights within one day – often including Kairouan and El Jem too.
We recommend Get Your Guide if you want to book a tour ahead of time.
BONUS SECOND PLACE – KAIROUAN MEDINA
Our second favourite medina in Tunisia was at Kairouan, less than an hour from Sousse by car.
We loved this historic city, which was originally built in the 8th century CE and operated as a centre for Quranic teaching. It is one of the oldest centres of Islamic learning and worship in the world. Today, most of the walls of the medina are from the 18th century and are interspersed with a number of babs (gates) from preceding centuries. It also features a covered souq and the notable 9th century Great Mosque of Kairouan (also called the Mosque of Uqba).
The city of Kairouan specialises in carpet/rug makers. Like with Sousse, these are the only places you may encounter any tourist-like (friendly) pestering. However, residents will still show you the ladies who make the rugs and explain how it is done, even if you don’t buy anything.
Indiana Jones – Raiders of the Lost Ark was actually filmed in Kairouan’s medina, by the Mosque of the Three Doors (the scenes that were meant to be in Egypt). This was far more exciting to me than all the Star Wars stuff!
It’s great for a hassle-free wander about, with very friendly residents and lots of architecture that’s characteristic of the region.
Parking is straightforward; we parked for free on the street near the mosque – on the P12, around 35.682689, 10.104469.
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Final Thoughts – Medina of Sousse
I guess this post isn’t all that useful as a travel guide and it’s a pretty lacklustre love letter!
However, I hope it might inspire people who visit Tunisia to venture further than only the capital city. The Medina of Tunis is large and has pretty much everything but, to me, it also lacks the kind of soul and character that can be found in abundance at the smaller, less touristy ones in Sousse, Sfax, Hammamet and Kairouan.
Moments of tranquillity and serenity are exceptionally rare to find in old quarters, markets, souqs and bazaars. Quiet instances in these traditionally hectic places were easily one of my highlights of a visit to Tunisia.
We hope you have a fantastic trip to Sousse – happy travels!
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Thank you, Claire + Nick
Not lackluster at all, and very helpful! Thank you. It has inspired me to stay there.
Good description. Appreciate the parking info. We will be visiting sousse, Kairouan and El Jem. Plan to rest a car.
Hi Kanisha,
I’m glad you found our post helpful.
I hope you have a great trip 🙂