The outdoors is forever calling in California; with record-breaking trees and deserts, jaw dropping coastlines, volcanoes, and high-altitude lakes; it is one of the most astoundingly diverse places on Earth. If you want to experience all of this in a single, budget trip, a California road trip with camping is the solution.

Have you already visited the popular California sites like Yosemite, the Pacific Coast Highway, San Francisco, and Los Angeles? Maybe you just crave a quieter, outdoor-oriented road trip; if so, then this is the itinerary for you. It includes lesser known but equally as remarkable destinations where the crowds are (often) thinner, but the adventure is just as breathtaking.

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Honestly, there must be enough ‘Cali Road Trip’ posts for everyone in the world to have one each, so this itinerary takes a different, more ‘outdoorsy and quiet’ perspective instead. 

Each location has camping suggestions. If you would like more general camping information, check out our tips for national park camping. Every location mentioned on the itinerary has hotels, motels and lodges available if that is your preference. 

This itinerary can be cut into segments and include the more famous California locations along the way. See the coloured routes on the map below.

Included are some suggestions for things to do around the major cities that involve less ‘city’ too. 

Tip
| pop into the visitor centre for any parks you visit. The rangers are always super knowledgeable and can provide maps, suggestions, and updates on road and trail conditions. 

Tip | as this itinerary is heavy on National Parks, it is worth purchasing an America the Beautiful pass that provides free entry to all lands managed by the National Park Service. Individual parks cost $10-$30 for entry and the pass costs $80 per car per year. It’s a no-brainer.

California road trip – artist’s impression

RECORD BREAKING TREES | tallest: Redwoods; largest: Sequoias; oldest: Bristlecones
TALLEST SAND DUNES | the Eureka Dunes in Death Valley at 207 metres
HIGHEST MOUNTAIN | Mount Whitney in the Sierra Nevada range (4421 metres, 14,505 feet)
CRAFT BEER | everywhere (seriously)
DEEPEST LAKE | Lake Tahoe, with a depth of 501 metres
NUMBER OF NATIONAL PARKS | nine, the highest of any U.S. state
LOWEST POINT | Badwater Basin in Death Valley at 86 metres below sea level

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As the climate and terrain varies so much across California, there is no perfect time to visit the entire region. It also depends on what type of weather you are comfortable camping in. I have done versions of the above road trip itinerary several times, always between May – October. My personal favourite months are September – October and June.

Here are some things to consider:

Itineraries | the southern itinerary (in orange on the map above) is better towards the wintertime; the green northern route is better either side of the summer months. 

Camping gear | as a camping-based trip, it is important to have three-season gear, almost all year around, due to the high elevations. To see what we use, check out our lightweight backpacking and camping gear. In the wintertime, it will be almost impossible to camp in the mountains without specialist four-season equipment.

Southern California | especially inland, is scorching hot in summer. If you intend to do any extensive hiking, avoid the warmer months. Choose the direction of your trip to coincide with the weather. Ensure the desert segment is done in the coolest time of your chosen month(s).

Crowds | these are greatest in most places during July and August. Shoulder seasons can still be busy in some popular regions, like Yosemite, Tahoe and Joshua Tree. Winter is by far the quietest (apart from the southern California deserts). Peak summer can be extremely challenging to acquire camping reservations and permits for too.

Forest fires | there is the risk of forest fires, commonly towards the end of the summer season. The national forests shut, permits were cancelled, and campgrounds closed during our 2021 trip. Visibility can be reduced as far south as Joshua Tree and further north than Tahoe during particularly bad years (although awful, the smoke makes for epic sunsets).

May – June | is an excellent choice for this road trip, but some higher elevations can still have a lot of snow and the Tioga Pass access to Yosemite is sometimes shut until late June (requires a long diversion). We did a long trip during these months in 2024 and the weather was perfect.

A Yosemite sunset during forest fire season in September

CAMPSITE | $10 – $35
HOTEL/MOTEL | $75 – $200
BEER AT A BAR | $3 – $12
GAS PER GALLON | $4 – $7
CAR RENTAL PER DAY | $40 – $100
A LARGE PIZZA | $15 – $30
COFFEE | $1 – $5
CHEAPEST LITRE OF RUM WE FOUND | $12

Camping | this keeps the average sleeping costs down, as does cooking for yourself at campgrounds. A campsite costs between $10-25 total a night for up to six people.

Car hire | (if you do not use your own) is moderate and comparable to other countries around the world. Avoid paying for satellite navigation and just use Google Maps – it works perfectly in the United States. Also check with your rental company that you are not being charged automatically for tolls (this happened to us).

Gas | is also particularly pricey as California is the most expensive state. Using apps like GasBuddy can help find the cheapest gas station in your area.

Restaurants and bars | these are not particularly cheap in California, but there are some places that are worth splurging on (especially the California craft beer scene). Remember, tipping is practically compulsory at this point, so add roughly 20% to your bill in advance.

Groceries | these are generally more expensive than in Europe, but not excessively so. Walmart is cheapest; Trader Joes and Whole Foods are nicer.

Spirits/Liquor | is the cheapest way to drink from a supermarket, although basic beer like Keystone is cheapish too.

Passes | as mentioned above, buy your national park pass to save on entry fees.

We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trips in the United States, Thailand, Malaysia, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia, Jordan and Morocco, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.

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This route traverses the northern half of california, beginning in San Francisco.

It can be done alone or combined with the southern ‘deserts’ itinerary. The trip winds and twists northward through unique forests, alpine lakes, volcanoes and then south through the Sierra Nevada mountains, all while avoiding the Disneyland/Yosemite crowds.

〈 Suggested number of days: 2-4 〉

No California road trip is complete without San Francisco! Here are some suggestions that keep you outdoors and slightly away from the crowds.

Marin Headlands | this is a great option if you like to spend time outside the city. The area has beaches, sweeping views, hiking, and camping. Rodeo Beach is great for a picnic and there are views of the Golden Gate Bridge throughout the area.

Muir Woods | if you continue north past Marin headlands for around 12 miles on the 101 and 1, this National Monument has beautiful redwood trees and is a lovely quick stop with six miles of hiking trails. 

Palace of Fine Arts | before you leave the city, check out this relic of the 1915 world’s fair. The beautifully designed complex is a fantastic place to take a wander plus it’s pretty photogenic (and free). You can find it just off the 101 towards the Golden Gate Bridge, near Crissy Field and the Presidio area (also worth a stop). On the opposite side of the 101 are several beaches with alternative views of the bridge, including Baker and Marshall’s Beach.

Heading to Marin Headlands from the Airport means passing through the centre of San Francisco and over the Golden Gate Bridge (in the non-toll direction!). Be aware of the toll in the southbound direction heading into the city. It costs around eight dollars, check up-to-date information on paying the fees.

Hotel suggestion | Cow Hollow Motor Inn – we always stay here in San Francisco if we have a car – it’s smack bang in between Fisherman’s Wharf and the Golden Gate Bridge. The hotel is basic but has large, free, underground parking (a rarity in central SF), the rooms are spacious and comfortable, plus the surrounding area is packed with quality bars and vibey restaurants. We recommend World Wrapps for a quick bite, California Wine Merchant for some serious wine tasting and lovely owners, and Delarosa Marina for some smashing pizza. It’s an easy (and pretty) 40-minute walk to Fisherman’s Wharf if you are heading to Alcatraz or the piers, or you can catch a bus.

Kirby Cove has a particularly fun campground if you can reserve a spot (try to get site 1, it’s competitive!). The highlight is the view of the Golden Gate Bridge and city at night – read more in our comprehensive guide of Kirby Cove Campground.

There are three other campgrounds in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, the most accessible being Bicentennial Campground. All others involve hiking in. All require reservations. 

Skyline of San Francisco with a road dividing the city
San Francisco skyline

〈 Suggested number of days: 2-3 〉

Leaving San Francisco northbound, the first thing you notice is the thinning of the crowds. Relative to the Pacific Coast Highway heading down to Los Angeles, this route is so peaceful. It takes you up the California coast to the border with Oregon to hang out with the world’s tallest trees. 

This leg of the California road trip takes you to multiple sites where you can visit these magnificent, mist-topped trees and have some epic camping alongside them. The national park encompasses a cluster of state parks, starting just above Eureka and following the coast up to the northern boundary with Oregon. 

Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt State Park | on your way north after Fort Bragg (stay overnight here if you need to cut the drive in half), you have the option of checking out Avenue of the Giants. This is a 31-mile road through some of the most impressive redwood groves with walks, fishing, swimming, and picnic areas. If you want to explore the area in more depth, stay overnight at one of the three campgrounds available in Humboldt Redwoods State Park (no entry fee, camping fees apply).

Redwoods National Park | with the tallest redwood in the world towering at 379 feet tall, many often have their heads in the clouds. To get the most immersive experience in this park, hike some of the 170 miles of mostly easy trails, bike some of the 40 miles of coastline and keep your eyes peeled for bears and other wildlife.

It is a long-ish five-hour drive to the Fort Bragg area where it is possible to stay overnight on route to Redwoods, or camp at Humboldt Redwoods State Park.

Taking route 1 is the most scenic option and I would suggest this over the 101, but it depends on how much time you have. This option takes you along the Pacific Coast Highway and has tonnes of beautiful stops to stretch your legs along the way. I’ve done the entire journey to Redwoods in a day before along the 1, skipping Fort Bragg, so it is doable (but way too long to be fun). 

After Fort Bragg, it is two hours to Humboldt Redwoods State Park and another two hours to Redwoods National Park. 

The coastline is stunning but sometimes moody, so be aware it can get a little bit damp and cold. Bring a jacket.

There are four developed campgrounds and seven backcountry ones within Redwoods National Park. 

Jedediah Smith is my personal favourite campground, surrounded by old growth redwoods which soar above your tent and make you feel miniscule. I also like Gold Bluffs Beach Campground; it is lovely, adjacent to a beach and surrounded by hills. Be aware that the access road is unpaved so your hire car insurance will be invalidated. 

Reservations are recommended all year round for campsites.

A tent at Jedediah Smith, Redwoods National Park
Camping in between the Redwoods

〈 Suggested number of days: 2 〉

Although technically not in California, if you have time on your road trip, do not miss Crater Lake National Park. It’s the deepest lake in the United States, situated inside a dormant volcanic crater. It’s pretty cool.

The park is an easy three-hour drive from the Redwoods area.

There are two campgrounds. Previously, we stayed at Manzama campground which is large with decent facilities and reservable for July, August and September. In 2024, this campground was temporarily shut because the National Park Service were not happy with the concessionaires and the way the campgrounds were run (I assume everything will re-open at some point under new management).

So, on our second visit, we stayed in Klamath Falls, which is around an hour south of Crater Lake National Park. We used points to stay in the Fairfield Inn and Suites which has an enviable waterfront position and we even got a lake view. We had a great couple of nights here. In Klamath Falls, our highlight was the Pizza from Rodeos Pizza and Saladeria – some of the best pizza we had during our three months in the United States this year.

If you want a real treat, stay in Crater Lake Lodge on the edge of the volcanic rim. It’s expensive and only open from May through October, but the views are outstanding (book a year in advance). 

Crater Lake

〈 Suggested number of days: 1 〉

This park, near the border with Oregon, is perched on the north face of one of the largest volcanoes in the Sierra Nevada area. Often, in national parks you must take an escorted tour for any cave-type activities.

Here though, you can roam and wander through tubes made from lava all on your own. There are quite a few and these are split into easy, moderate and challenging routes. It makes for an exciting (and budget friendly) stop on your California road trip.

Personally, we were surprised by how cool these lava bed caves were, and also how few people were around. We explored a whole bunch of seriously distinctive caves and didn’t see another person the entire time. It would be amazing for kids too (the caves are rated for difficulty so it’s easy to choose which are suitable). Also the scenery is magnificent on the drive in and out – perfect for an offbeat California road trip.

The national monument is a four-hour drive inland across northern California, through sprawling pine forests and winding roads. The caves themselves are dark and cold, so make sure you have a decent head torch and warm clothes.

Make sure you head to the visitor centre before checking out any of the caves – you’ll need to pick up a free permit which you hang in your car.

There is one campground which operates on a first-come first-serve basis and is on the cheaper side at $10.

Backcountry camping here is free if you do not need facilities – pop into the visitor centre to chat with the rangers about it.

Lava Tubes

YOSEMITE: $35 (3 or 7 days)
SEQUOIA & KINGS CANYON: $35 (7 days)
JOSHUA TREE: $30 (7 days)
DEATH VALLEY: $20 (7 days)
CHANNEL ISLANDS: Free
REDWOODS: $5 day use (state park fees)
LASSEN VOLCANIC: $30 (7 days)
PINNACLES: $30 (7days)

〈 Suggested number of days: 2-3 〉

Despite having national park status, this place is astonishingly quiet. For some reason it passes under the radar of most California road trip tourists, and I’ve never visited when it’s been even the slightest bit busy.
 
The area is centred around Lassen Peak, a volcano that you can see from numerous angles in the park. The hiking opportunities are fantastic with masses of geological and hydrological features – think Yellowstone without the crowds. 

One of the most popular hikes is Bumpass Hell which leads to the largest hydrothermal area in the park. There are many other trails in this park too, leading to remarkable features such as bubbling lakes and waterfalls. If you’re up for an achievable challenge, take on Lassen Peak itself which shows off views of the Devastated Area, a region destroyed by an eruption in 1915. If you’re not able to hike far, there are stunning blue lakes, meadows, and hydrothermal features next to the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway which cuts through the park.

Lassen is an easy two-hour drive south of Lava Beds National Monument on this California road trip. Be aware of the altitude – most of the park is over 6000 feet and Lassen Peak itself is over 10000 feet. This means it can get a bit chilly overnight so pack sensible camping gear. In the winter, the main road is not ploughed so check the website for access and conditions.

There are a several campgrounds to choose from in Lassen; the most developed is Manzanita. It is $26 a night, so on the upper end of the camping budget for this road trip, but the sites are spacious and right next to Manzanita Lake. It has reservable and first come first serve sites, plus a few cabins. We’ve camped here twice and both times it was a pleasure. We particularly loved the tent only loop (loop D).

There are so many primitive campgrounds outside the area too, though. It’s an easy place to secure a campground somewhere.

Geothermal waters surrounded by mineral deposits at Lassen Volcanic Park, California
Bumpass Hell
Blue waters of a lake with green trees growing on sloping ground on the far shore
Lassen

〈 Suggested number of days: 3 〉

Tahoe is a spectacular high-altitude lake, doubling as a world class ski resort in winter and a beach and water sports haven in summer. I’ve never visited in winter, so this itinerary entry is more focussed on outdoorsy stuff in spring, summer, and fall. We’ve always wanted to go skiing there though.

Also, this entry on the California road trip itinerary sneaks into Nevada (the lake intersects the boundary between the two states). About two thirds of the lake is in California so that’s how we can justify it. It’s also not that quiet (super busy in summer), but on a northern California road trip through the Sierra Nevada mountains you can’t miss it. Tahoe is also the start of the incredibly scenic California Route 365 which stretches all the way south past Death Valley.

We accidentally visited Lake Tahoe recently during Independence Day week – it was genuinely intolerable! We’d recommend planning a trip to Tahoe outside of the peak summer months and definitely avoid holidays.

The best beaches are, in my opinion, on the Nevada side.  There’s even a nudist one if you’re into that! The nicest ones take a bit of walking to get to and others are state parks so have a small fee for entry. Check out Secret Cove, Hidden Beach, and Creek Beach (clothing optional although I hear the authorities are cracking down on this?). 

Emerald Bay State Park | is impossible to miss on the California side. It is a stunning, beautiful azure blue and a fantastic place for water sports (you can kayak or paddleboard to the little island in the middle!). Be warned, it gets very busy and there is minimal parking. Sometimes people just stop on the side of the road. Don’t be one of those people – get there early.

The Heavenly Gondola | in South Lake Tahoe delivers remarkable views from the top of Heavenly Mountain. Here you get views of the entire lake, weather permitting. There’s a lodge, observation deck, activities, and food. Be warned – it is pricey. Coffee is mind-blowingly expensive, activities cost a fortune and the gondola ride is ski-pass rates. Unless you already have your ski pass paid for, you must really want those views to fork out the cash. You can buy tickets online or from the village kiosk.

This California road trip route can take you through Reno, Nevada, if that is your jam, so there is an opportunity to stop there. Reno is a cheap, elderly version of Vegas (in our opinion) and is worth a little time if you are all natured out or need to stock up on supplies. Lodging can be moderately cheap here so it’s a great place to grab a shower and a comfy bed for the night after a camping marathon.

It is a straightforward 3.5-hour drive from Lassen to South Lake Tahoe, where most of the accommodation, restaurants and facilities are. In South Lake Tahoe, you’ll immediately see the border between the states – the Nevada side has giant casinos. The north of the lake is far quieter if you prefer that.

Hotel suggestion | our most recent stay was in Basecamp Lake Tahoe, which we thought was pretty great value for money, with free, abundant parking, an outrageously central location right across from the Heavenly Ticket Office. The rooms were cosy and comfortable and there are little areas with fire pits you can hang out in at night. Attached is the South of North Brewing Co., which we also recommend.

There are various camping locations all around the lake perimeter, but my favourite one is General Creek in Sugar Pine Point State Park on the California side – average campground, amazing location.

It’s a 13-minute drive from Emerald Bay which means you can get there early! Be careful of bears; always use the bear lockers provided.

Camping in Tahoe during peak season is super busy, hectic, loud and not the nicest. Avoid it if you can.

Blue waters surrounded by green trees and mountains in the background at South Lake Tahoe
A View of South Lake Tahoe

〈 Suggested number of days: 3-4 〉

This detour is only possible if you are travelling in summer, as the Tioga Pass to Yosemite is shut seasonally (it is above 10,000 feet). If the pass is open, though, the drive to Yosemite from route 365 is beautiful (it’s open, roughly, from June each year).

If you’ve never been to Yosemite before, this might be a good optional stop – do not go without a plan though. Accommodation can be tricky to secure and the park is jam-packed during summer, when day-use reservations are essential. Consider using the shuttle service YARTS to avoid traffic congestion.

Hotels | accommodation options inside the park boundaries include the Ahwahnee Hotel and Yosemite Valley Lodge. These are beautiful but very expensive and not really worth the money unless it’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip.

We’ve stayed in almost every place outside the park boundaries at some point! Yosemite View Lodge is the closest to the park entrance – very expensive, with basic rooms but a lovely location adjacent to the Merced River. They charge separately for WiFi and there’s very little signal, just so you know (charging $10 for Wifi annoys me). Further down the road is the slightly more affordable Yosemite Cedar Lodge. I was concerned about staying here because the reviews are middling, however, it was perfectly okay for a short stay and, in mid-2024, they have just started providing free WiFi!

Mariposa and Oakhurst are other options around an hour from Yosemite – we really like Mariposa in particular (although both are nice little towns).

In Mariposa, the Mariposa Lodge is a lovely, comfortable little motel which we highly recommend. We’ve also stayed in the Best Western Plus Yosemite Way Station which was a bit more high end and had a banging breakfast and (surprisingly) above average rooms. We always eat pizza from the Pizza Factory after a huge hike and visit 1850 Restaurant and Brewery.

In Oakhurst, there are a plethora of places to stay – we have stayed in the Best Western which was nice and had a good pool (not so great breakfast though), and the Sierra Sky Ranch – this was quirky, cabin style and just really pretty, just a little outside of town. For food, our go-to place is South Gate Brewing Company, which is outstanding for beers and burgers (very vegetarian friendly).

Developed campgrounds in Yosemite | this is exceptionally competitive, so reservations are essential. Unless you get particularly lucky with first-come first-serve campgrounds, you will not find any Yosemite Valley camping at all during summer. There are four Yosemite Valley campgrounds: Upper, Lower, and North Pines, and Camp 4.

Occasionally, there are cancellations online, so check regularly – we have obtained reservations this way. The campgrounds are nicest outside of the valley – often more spacious and without fire restrictions.

If you cannot get a campsite, consider Housekeeping Camp instead. It’s a bit like camping but in basic structures and costs a fair bit more, so doesn’t sell out as quickly.

Backcountry camping | Yosemite wilderness permits are easier to get (not the hyper competitive ones), and are very affordable. If you like camping in the wilderness, consider having a look. We’ve done two backcountry wilderness trips in Yosemite and both were outstanding.

Mirror Lake
Yosemite Falls

〈 Suggested number of days: 3-4 〉

A renowned ski resort in winter, Mammoth Lakes transforms into an exhilarating summer destination full of outdoor activities like fishing, camping, backpacking, hiking and biking. There are so many routes of various difficulties around the high-altitude lakes – the Welcome Center has maps and details for each. Mammoth has over 300 miles of trails in total – it is an outdoor adventurer’s dream. 

Devil’s Postpile National Monument | a wall of basalt columns 60 feet high (like the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Island) and is worth a trip from Mammoth Village.

Mono Lake | this is a great place to take a break between Tahoe and Mammoth but don’t count on swimming! It is a saline lake (2.5 times saltier than the ocean) and is great for bird watching and short walks. It has these crazy calcium-carbonate towers which look super alien!

Bodie Ghost Town | a California State Historic Park preserving an old gold-mining town. The settlement ‘boomed’ when small amounts of gold were found in the hills around Mono Lake in 1876 and grew to encompass around 2000 buildings. By 1880 though, the population began to decline and by 1915, Bodie was first described as a ghost town.

It costs $8 per adult without an annual California State Park Pass and is reached by a turning off the 365 which ends in a three-mile dirt road. If you are renting a car this road may invalidate your rental insurance, but many tourists do it with no difficulties. We think it’s worth the money and the little adventure to get here.

The drive from Tahoe to Mammoth is under three hours and goes directly via Mono Lake (and the turn off to Tioga Pass for Yosemite). At Mammoth, check in with the Welcome Center to confirm the state of the roads if there is any uncertainty around the weather. Most of the places you will visit are above 6000 feet in this area – be prepared for the weather and altitude.

During summer, you will need to get a shuttle to Devil’s Postpile National Monument from Mammoth Village which costs $8.

Mammoth has a lot of car camping options. Lake Mary is my favourite developed campground – the views are lovely, the location is central and there are exceptional facilities. Nearby is Twin Lakes, which we’ve also camped at and is decent but busier and a little less private.

Another beautiful campground is at Convict Lake, which I think might be the prettiest lake of all (the campground is less pretty than Lake Mary though). Be aware that this area can get very busy, and campgrounds fill up in summer. Reservations highly recommended.

Convict Lake

〈 Suggested number of days: 3-5 〉

Big Pine and Lone Pine in the Inyo National Forest are not at the forefront of most to-do lists for a California road trip, but that would be an error. With the Sierra Nevada Mountains as a backdrop, the area is stunning, there’s loads to do and it isn’t all that busy.

It might be my favourite part of this California itinerary. We’ve suggested 3-5 days, but honestly you could comfortably make a week of it here!

Hiking | there are too many hiking possibilities to list for this post. Highlights include the John Muir Trail, which cuts through the area on route to Yosemite and the Big Pine Lakes; a priority for any backpacking enthusiast. Hiking Mount Whitney is another very popular activity – it is the highest mountain in the contiguous United States at 14,505 feet and should be on any hardcore hiker’s itinerary. Many of these activities require competitive permits – check out recreation.gov for more information.

Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest | high up in the White Mountains is another focal point of the region (I have a tree obsession). At over 4000 years old, these are the oldest living trees on Earth and absolutely floor me every time I see them. There are several hikes, some more family friendly and accessible than others (all above 10,000 feet so can feel a bit exhausting).

Alabama Hills | the scenery around Lone Pine has been used as the location for hundreds of films, such as Django Unchained, Gladiator and several Star Treks. Its crazy, rocky, weirdness, all with the Sierra Nevada Mountains as a backdrop is just magical – don’t miss it. The Museum of Western Film History provides a fascinating overview of the town’s involvement in the film industry too and is well worth a visit. 

Manzanar National Historic Site | this important stop, just north of Lone Pine, gives an overview of the Japanese internment camps during World War Two. Manzanar was one of ten detention centres in the United States and held 10,000 Japanese Americans.

The drive from Mammoth (which is also part of Inyo National Forest) is only around two hours to Lone Pine, passing through Bishop and Big Pine.

Highway 395 is a lovely drive parallel to the Sierra Nevada mountains and the little towns along the route are full of quirky restaurants and places to stay. Take your time on this part of the road trip, it’s beautiful!

Hotel suggestions | in Bishop (the bigger of the towns), we recommend the Wayfinder Bishop – it’s easily one of the best in town and super comfortable and pretty – it’s the only one we’d choose to stay at again. The usual chain hotels in Bishop are not all that great, so we’d recommend checking reviews carefully. Visit Erich Schat’s Bakery for (possibly) the best breads and cakes of your life. The garlic-cheese bagels changed my attitude towards bread products for life (in a good way).

We’ve never stayed in Big Pine because we always camp around here, however we get the best vibes from the Starlight Motel.

In Lone Pine, we unequivocally recommend the Dow Villa. It’s perfect from a price point perspective and the rooms are comfortable. It’s the best place to stay in town – book in advance because this one sells out. We’ve eaten from everywhere in Lone Pine and love the Alabama Hills Bakery and Pizza Factory.

There is an absolute tonne of camping – too many campgrounds to list. To look through them all, check out the Inyo National Forest site. My favourite campground is Big Pine Creek (perfect for the Big Pine Lakes hike), followed by Whitney Portal, then Lone Pine (both great if you are hiking Mount Whitney).

West of Bishop, there are lots of lovely campgrounds towards Lake Sabrina Lake South Lake. You can’t really go wrong with any of the options up there!

They’re all decent campgrounds and facilities are generally good – check the website if you are after something specific. They cost in the region of $20-28 and I would recommend reserving a site whenever possible, especially in summer.

Alabama Hills

This segment of the California road trip continues from Lone Pine into the deserts of southern California.

This section can be done separately (Los Angeles or Las Vegas are good starting points), or combined with the trees and mountains section above to make one large loop.

This area has some of my favourite camping backdrops on earth.

〈 Suggested number of days: 1-3 〉

I could write for days about Death Valley.

There is so much to do. The giant Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes; astonishing views from Dante’s View and Zabriskie Point; the lowest point in the U.S. at Badwater Basin; a 600-foot volcanic crater only 300 years old; the ‘geological rainbow’ called Artists Palette; more Canyons than you can count. These are just some of the sites you can reach with a normal low-clearance car. 

This itinerary only provides an overview and I strongly suggest you plan your trip using the National Park Service website (with some assistance from Google Maps). It gives you up-to-date weather and road conditions along with seasonal guidance on what to expect. The visitor centre at Furnace Creek is a particularly good one, and during summer, check the enormous thermometer outside for the temperature!

Rhyolite, an abandoned mining town which at its peak had a population of around 5,000, has been unoccupied since 1920. It has some seriously quirky artwork, remnants of the old town buildings and a pretty weird house made of bottles! There are no tourist traps or entry fees, and I personally felt a curious sense of isolation. It is 35 miles from Furnace Creek and a perfect stop off on route to Las Vegas if you head that way.

Death Valley gets hot. I have only ever been in June, July, August and September (because I’m just a glutton for punishment, apparently) and can confirm this. Be prepared – it does not cool down much either (often over 100 F overnight). Camping can be a sticky, uncomfortable experience. The winter is prime season to visit, but be aware – other people know this too, so you won’t be alone. 

If you visit in summer, pack extra food and a few spare gallons of water. This seems like overkill, but your car could break down, your aircon could give-in, you could get caught in a flash flood that sweeps all the roads away (these have all actually happened to us in Death Valley). 

Death Valley is unforgiving in summer and people do die.

The number of nights you choose to stay will depend on your car too – there are some seriously cool things to do if you have a decent off-road vehicle (or are willing to rent one with suitable insurance).

Fill up on gas before you enter the park. There is a gas station in the park at Stovepipe Wells but it is (justifiably) pricey.

Campground selection is seasonally dependent.

The most central campsites are Furnace Creek, Sunset and Texas Springs, which have an elevation between sea level and several hundred feet below. This makes them exceptionally hot during the summer. I’ve stayed at them all during this season; they were empty – the benefit of uncomfortable temperatures (we also did not have to reserve in advance or even pay).

In winter, reservations are available and recommended. There are also first-come first-serve sites available (all open campgrounds are F-C, F-S in summer).

In summer, if you don’t fancy overnight temperatures in triple digits, check out higher altitude campgrounds that are cooler (but busier). There are five in total, none take reservations and four are free. Several need a high-clearance vehicle to access. Check the official website for more detailed information (including elevations) for all Death Valley campgrounds.

Other options for accommodation include a nice lodge in Furnace Creek if camping seems a bit much.

A man standing above crags at Death Valley as part of a California road trip.
Death Valley National Park at the height of summer

〈 Suggested number of days: 1-4 〉

If you need supplies, a nice restaurant, pool, or comfy hotel room, then Las Vegas is great for a stopover before continuing your California road trip around the deserts. It is a two-hour drive from Death Valley and has a bunch of outdoor activities worth doing while you are there (it’s not all casinos!). Check out Red Rock National Recreational Area, kayak to the Emerald Cave (it’s not all that) and if you want a challenge, climb Charleston Peak (this is a nice respite from the heat during summer).

Tip to keep costs down | only stay in Las Vegas on weekdays. The price tag for hotels often triples (or more) on Friday and Saturday. Also watch for those sneaky resort fees that can double the price of your room (currently loving the new Virgin Hotel just off strip for having free parking, no resort fee and free WIFI). For more, check out our Las Vegas money saving tips.

We often camp through the weekends when in Las Vegas, generally in the Mojave Preserve or Death Valley, to avoid these costs.

The Flamingo, Las Vegas. One of our favourites for price to quality ratio

〈 Suggested number of days: 1-2 〉

Sandwiched between the two main interstates in the area is the enormous Mojave Preserve, encompassing a harsh, moon-like desert landscape. Depending on hiking preferences and season, you could easily only spend one night here, just pass through and see the main sites. However, with a four-wheel drive vehicle or a few days backpacking (no permits required!) you could take far longer. The Mojave has some wonderful campgrounds, singing sand dunes, the best Joshua tree forests (better than Joshua Tree National Park!), and some quirky installations, like the Mojave Road Mailbox.

Call into the Visitors centre in Kelso (Kelso Depot Visitor Center on Google Maps). There’s loads of leaflets and information on the things to do here. 

The region is unpopulated; apart from a few other cars passing through, you are not likely see many people. 

This is another area, like Death Valley, that is more accessible with a high clearance vehicle. However, on this California road trip itinerary, you do not need one. Just driving through the preserve is spectacular, with scenery that makes me think of the moon.

There is no gas in the preserve, fill up before in Baker, Cima or Primm on the I-15; Ludlow or Fenner on the I-40. For this road trip itinerary, Baker or Primm makes the most sense.

On the I-40 side of the Preserve, Hole in the Rock is a cool little campground that we regularly use.

It’s pretty open but has amazing scenery and is off a paved road (so no worries about clearance). It is also budget-friendly at $12 a night. At an elevation of 1341 metres (4400 feet), the temperatures are excellent in summer. There is easy access to some of the better hikes in the area, including the popular Rings Loop.

Mid Hills is the other campground in the Preserve but does not have paved access. All campgrounds are first-come first-serve.

A man striking a pose in the middle of an empty road in the Mojave Desert on a California road trip
Obligatory California road trip pic in the Mojave Preserve

〈 Suggested number of days: 2-3 〉

This park gets busier, year-on-year, but as with the other desert areas in this California itinerary, it depends on the season. Many Los Angeles residents love this region as a getaway from the city, especially outside of the summer season. Visit during the warmer months to avoid this issue – prepare for very hot days but perfect evening temperatures. 

Despite the name, the park is not only about Joshua trees. There are lots of awesome-looking rock formations, perfect for climbing and scrambling, or simply hiking around. Climbing and bouldering is super popular here, with thousands of routes and problems available. If this is your sort of jazz, add an extra day or two onto the itinerary.  

For a full list of hikes, check out the official website. If you are interested in climbing, read the park service information.

Joshua Tree takes longer to reach and drive through than it looks like it should on a map. It is about three hours from the Mojave Preserve to the centre of Joshua Tree, through some amazing, but very stark, scenery.

Make sure to get gas and supplies in Twentynine Palms before heading into the park. For a park leaflet, stop in the Visitor Center – be aware that it is outside the park on route 62 just past Twentynine Palms.

It is very hot in summer, take more water than you think you will need.

Camping is first-come, first-served during the quiet season (June to September) and is often mostly empty. For the rest of the year, the 500 sites across the park can fill up, especially at weekends and in the spring. Reserve ahead where you can and if you can’t, try for a first-come, first-serve site. This can be competitive, particularly at weekends. The official site has a full list of the campsites.

My favourite campground is Jumbo Rocks. The scenery is amazing, it is $20 a night, reservable and is centrally located, right next to the Skull Rock hiking loop.

Breakfast at Jumbo Rocks, Joshua Tree National Park

〈 Suggested number of days: 1-2 〉

While everyone is flocking to Joshua Tree during peak season, California’s largest state park remains (relatively) under the radar, although that is slowly starting to change. There is an entry fee of $10 (without the California State Park Pass) with various camping options depending on facilities required. 

This is another park that relies on off-road capable vehicles for some areas. If you only have a two-wheel drive car, fear not, for there are lots of things to do in the surrounding area as well visiting the park itself. 

There is some really interesting stuff in the surrounding area outside of the park. 

Julian | thisis a town that exudes charm; as small places go it is up there with the best, but not in a fake, touristy way. It is famous for apple pies; there are at least four cafes and bakeries that serve them all year round!
 
Slab City | this strange place is located on the opposite side of the Salton Sea (also worth visiting – it won’t be there forever). Described as ‘lawless’ and labelled ‘one of America’s last free places’, it is Slab City’s art installations that motivate most people to visit. A community with no water, electricity or trash removal can sound unappealing to some, but the man-made Salvation Mountain has become a huge draw for anyone searching for a unique experience. In fact, the entire community is rather distinctive! If you are considering a visit, read up on the history and culture that surrounds Slab City. Bring a book or two to swap at the library.

Galleta Meadows | in Borrego Springs has some seriously cool metal sculptures. I thought they were just magic! There are more than 130, made by Ricardo Breceda, including a dragon, giant tortoises, a woolly mammoth and dinosaurs. It’s just so so weird, but excellent. You can drive between the statues, many of which are marked on Google Maps and the visitor center can give you a map of them.

The whole region surrounding Anza Borrego and the Salton Sea is just really wild and empty. Small settlements dot the landscape, with an utterly un-Californian feel to it. Everyone who spends time on a California road trip should witness rural life surrounding Anza Borrego, it is honestly eye-opening and a window into a whole different part of California. I felt like we were in Mad Max at times.

It is a couple of hours drive between Joshua Tree and Borrego Springs. This journey is one of my favourite parts of the road trip, especially along Box Canyon Road; the area has excellent hiking in the Mecca Hills Wilderness if you have more time in your schedule. There are loads of camping and hiking opportunities off the Borrego Salton Sea Way too.

When leaving Borrego Springs, Montezuma Valley Road has remarkable views from the top of the mountain. The drive is fun too!

Anza Borrego Desert State Park is a tricky one to navigate. Pop into the visitor center to get all the information you need.

The state park has four developed and eight primitive campgrounds. Borrego Palm Canyon Campground has the easiest access and best facilities, if a little expensive at $35 (state parks are often quite pricey to camp in but have great facilities). Three campgrounds are available to reserve online outside of the summer season.

There are many areas for dispersed camping in this park and surrounding region, so if you don’t need facilities, this is a good option. 

A metal scupture at Galleta Meadows, Borrego Springs

〈 Suggested number of days: 2-6 〉

If you have not visited either of these, please consider it! The laid-back ambiance of San Diego and the rough-meets-glamour vibe of Los Angeles call me back time and time again. There is no space for guides to these two epic cities here but attempt to include them on your California road trip if you have not been. They’re detours-only on this itinerary, purely because they don’t fit the theme. Los Angeles is honestly one of my favourite cities on Earth – it’s vibrant, chaotic and punchy.

Road trip | the Pacific coast route between both cities is also worth your time; take a break at the Orange County classics of Newport and Laguna Beach.

Hotels | around the Los Angeles area, Pasadena, Glendale and Burbank (my favourite of these three) often have cheaper accommodation options (in our experience). Santa Monica, West Hollywood (my absolute fave area) and Beverly Hills are amazing if you can afford it!

In San Diego, the La Jolla area north of the city is our favourite area to stay, or alternatively we stay in centrally located Coronado (expensive though).

Outdoors | the Santa Monica Mountains are epic for outdoor activities like hiking and biking in the Los Angeles area. Escondido Falls is an easy hike but has heavy foot traffic. Also consider hiking sections of the Backbone Trail, which is 67 miles long and traverses the area from east to west with top-notch views of Los Angeles, the Channel Islands and the San Gabriel Mountains. There is also camping offered by nearby state parks but getting a spot can be competitive. If you need accommodation, stay in Thousand Oaks or Calabasas for *slightly* cheaper rates. 

Channel Islands | further north in Ventura and Oxnard is the jumping off point for the Channel Islands National Park. This park is comprised of five islands off the California coast with unique wildlife and a wild, rugged landscape. There are campgrounds on each island that cost $15 a night. Advanced reservations and pre-organised transport from the mainland are essential.

One of the many bits of street art in Ocean Beach, San Diego

〈 Suggested number of days: 2-3 〉

From Los Angeles, the most scenic route for the road trip back to San Francisco is via the Pacific Coast Highway. This is the slower but far more picturesque route, so it depends on how much time you have.

At a minimum, I would spend a night in the Morro Bay/Pismo Beach area and then a night around Monterey. This gives you a full day to explore the northern section of the coast which includes the highlight of Big Sur. Any spare time spent in the lovely town of Monterey is never a chore either (our recommendation – Fieldwork Brewing Company – order a flight). 

On route, check out the famous elephant seals (Elephant Seal Vista Point on Google Maps); see the giant rock of Morro Bay and eat some saltwater taffy; stop at the numerous viewpoints and beaches along the way and take your time. The most famous view on the route is McWay Falls, in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. There is dedicated parking but costs $10 (you can park on the street but it’s a little sketchy).

In the far north near Monterey, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is a beautiful place to stretch your legs with lots of easy hiking (entry fee of $10). If the weather is good, the water here has a bright aquamarine hue, and you can see sea lions and many types of bird.

Camping is difficult along the coast; it books up fast and there isn’t all that much of it compared to demand. Pfeiffer Big Sur Campground is the trickiest so reserve as far ahead as possible. Limekiln State Park is another great choice. 

Logistically, this is the easiest section of the California road trip, although it could be amongst the most expensive too. Fill up your gas before getting to Big Sur; there is gas available, but rates are sky high. The total drive time is around eight hours, which doesn’t sound like much over several days, but the amount of stopping makes it take far longer!

It is hit or miss with the weather. Three times we drove this stretch of road and didn’t see a single cloud, another time we were engulfed in fog.

Elephant seals on the California coast

〈 Suggested number of days: 1-2 〉

This is a small volcanically formed park, the beauty of which is that it’s nearly always quiet with no need for reservations. There is hiking, bat caves, California condors and renowned rock climbing too if that’s your jam. In my opinion, this park has some of the best hiking anywhere, with a few trails leading straight off from the campground. Some hikes lead through cool caves too.

This park is split into east and west; it is not possible to reach each side by road directly within the park. Check on your GPS to make sure you are going to the side you intend! From Monterey, it is less than 90 minutes to the west or east entrance.

This is also one of those parks with four weather seasons, so is very hot in summer but can freeze in the evenings during winter.

The final leg of the California itinerary is an easy 2.5-hour drive back to San Francisco through the Garlic capital of Gilroy (you can smell the garlic in the air!). 

The park has one campground, which has a few nice private sites (the rest are a bit open). Weirdly for a national park, this campground also has a pool. It is not the best campground ever, but rarely fills up, costs $23 and provides excellent access to the east side of the park.

In September, we were the only people there apart from two other groups (it was very hot though). Beware of raccoons at the campground – they steal your stuff.

Signs in a street in Chinatown, San Francisco, California
Back to San Francisco; visit one of the largest Chinatowns in the world for some amazing food after your road trip

This California road trip is an ambitious, epic journey. If you have a month and want to experience all the natural diversity California has to offer, then this itinerary provides that in droves, along with some more off-beat options to check out along the route. It is even better suited if you are on a budget road trip and love camping! 

We hope this aids your trip planning. California is one of our favourite states and having spent a lot of time travelling it, we thought we’d share the love.

Have a great day!


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Thank you, Claire + Nick


3 Comments

  1. Thank you for the good writeup. It in fact was a amusement account it.
    Look advanced to far added agreeable from you! By the way, how could we communicate?

    1. Thanks so much for your comment, glad to be of help! If you ever want to communicate with us, you can send a message through the ‘contact us’ link at the bottom of any page on this website :). Or, email ‘hello @ therestlessbeans.com’.

  2. sweeet post! i’m from CA but been living abroad for a few years and came home to a bunch of state campgrounds charging $60 a night? so crazy to me, bookmarking this for cheaper sites to add to our list of overlanding spots 🙂

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