One Day in Capitol Reef: Hikes, Drives, Arches and Pies
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 17 Aug 2024
Are you planning a trip to Capitol Reef, or wondering if it is worth the detour? We do! We’ve visited Capitol Reef National Park many times and have figured out all the best things to do for a one-day trip, including suggestions for hikes, drives, restaurants, camping, hotels, plus some extras if you have more than a day!
Capitol Reef is one of Utah’s celebrated ‘Mighty Five’ national parks – and one of the lesser visited, by a considerable amount. Hidden away at the northern end of Scenic Byway 12, fewer visitors explore this area of Utah, despite it being, in my opinion, one of the best.
The park is centered around an enormous, 100-mile-long Waterpocket Fold, or, as the National Park Service imaginatively put it “a wrinkle in the Earth’s crust”. This distinctive geological formation has formed a twisted, striking landscape, one full of dramatic canyons, vivid-red outcrops, hidden slots and cliff-top arches.
I’ve visited Capitol Reef countless times, and have never run out of things to do. There are magnificent arches and bridges, challenging hikes up to the epic Navajo Knobs, vistas for miles at Sunset Point, and crazy panoramas along the Scenic Drive. There’s also tonnes of history, so grab yourself a famous Gifford Homestead Pie and learn about the pioneers!
It’s perfect for a one-day trip – from sunrise to sunset, you’ll be enchanted by this special little corner of Utah! Honestly, Capitol Reef has everything you’d expect from a Utah national park (and a bit more).
This one-day plan is based on all our absolute favourite moments, to help you plan the perfect trip!
IN THIS GUIDE //
Adventures in Capitol Reef
Is Capitol Worth the Detour?
How We’d Spent One Perfect Day
Morning: Bridges, Knobs and Petroglyphs
Lunch: Pie and Cinnamon!
Afternoon: Panoramas, Arches and Fruit
Evening: Sunsets and Burgers
Other Things to Do
Further Afield
Itinerary Map
Entry Fees
Where to Stay in Capitol Reef
A Few Restaurant Suggestions
Camping in Capitol Reef
Best Time to Visit
Final Thoughts
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TLDR: Itinerary Overview
Breakfast: Wild Rabbit Cafe – get the burrito!
Morning: Hickman Bridge or Navajo Knobs, Petroglyphs
Lunch: Gifford Homestead for a nutritious combo of pie and cinnamon buns
Afternoon: Scenic Drive, Grand Wash and/or Cassidy Arch Hike. Pick some fruit at the orchard (seasonal).
Sunset: Goosenecks, Panorama and Sunset Point
Dinner: a smashing Capitol Burger or Mexican at Chak Balam
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Is Capitol Reef Worth the Detour?
Yes, Capitol Reef National Park is definitely well-worth the effort!
Some people (erroneously) think that Capitol Reef is not worth the time it takes to reach, however we strongly disagree. Here are some epic reasons to include this park on your southern Utah road trip:
Fewer crowds | consider the ‘Mighty Five’ visitor numbers for 2023:
⬩ Zion: 4,623,238 (with an area of 229 sq miles)
⬩ Bryce Canyon: 2,461,269 (with an area of 56 sq miles)
⬩ Arches: 1,482,045 (with an area of 120 sq miles)
⬩ Capitol Reef: 1,268,861 (with an area of 377 sq miles)
⬩ Canyonlands: 800,322 (with an area of 527 sq miles)
These number speak for themselves!
But, even more striking is the visitor density. Zion has 20,189 people per square mile over a year, whereas Capitol Reef has only 3366 people per square mile over a year. Plus, people tend to congregate in specific places in Zion and Bryce, but Capitol Reef is more spread out, so the density is even more pronounced.
Why It’s One of Our Favourites
Lovely camping | the developed campground is set in an orchard surrounded by red cliffs, and backcountry camping is free!
Backcountry permits | they’re never in demand, only available as walk ins, plus they’re free!
Easy to access off-the-beaten-track spots | everything is a bit off-the-beaten-path in Capitol Reef anyway, but with a tiny bit of effort, I can almost guarantee that you’ll be hiking alone.
Super pretty | it’s just as pretty as the other Utah national parks, if not more (sorry, I’m being controversial again).
Adjacent to Scenic Byway 12 and the Burr Trail | the scenic drives in the area are some of the best in Utah.
Beautiful arches and bridges | you don’t need to visit Arches National Park or Natural Bridges National Monument (although you really should).
Top-notch hiking | whether you’re looking for grand slots, high arches, cliff-edge views; Capitol Reef has it all.
Lower entry fees | the cost to enter Capitol Reef is $20, compared with $30-35 for the other parks (although they are all free with an America the Beautiful pass).
Geologically distinct | this park is unlike any other. I think that, sometimes, the five Utah national parks get bundled together like they are all just ‘loads of red rocks’. I imagine that if a park has to be cut from an itinerary, it’s always going to be Capitol Reef, just because it looks ‘just the same as all the others’. However, it definitely does not.
How We’d Spend One Perfect Day
If we were to spend one day in Capitol Reef, the below is exactly what we’d choose to do.
I’ve mentioned a few hike options to suit various fitness levels where applicable (remember that the hike elevations often start above 5000 feet, so lots of people feel less fit here!).
This entire itinerary is based around Highway 24 and the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive – the frontcountry section of Capitol Reef, so there are no special car requirements.
Overnight | choose a hotel in Torrey (or reserve a campsite in Fruita). Pick up some breakfast from The Wild Rabbit Cafe if your hotel doesn’t include one (I personally recommend their veggie breakfast burrito).
There’s lots more useful information about visiting Capitol Reef below the itinerary, including information on fees, our favourite hotels, some restaurant suggestions, camping information, and things to know about the seasons.
Morning – Bridges, Knobs and Petroglyphs (2-5 hours)
Visitor Centre | take State Route 24 east towards the park and pop into the Capitol Reef Visitor Centre. Pick up a leaflet/guide, get any updates on weather and road conditions and have a little look around. Also, enquire about free fruit picking at the orchard (seasonal).
Then, return to the 24, and head down to the Hickman Bridge Trailhead, stopping briefly at the Fruita Schoolhouse and Petroglyph panels on the way if you’re interested.
Hickman Bridge and Navajo Nobs (or Rim Overlook) | my favourite hike in the park (I have a thing for natural bridges and torturing myself on hideously difficult hikes).
Navajo Knobs is an indisputably exceptional hike with a tiny bit of very high scrambling at the end. The views are unmatched throughout the park, but it’s around 10 miles and 1600 feet of elevation. A shorter version of this hike goes to the Rim Overlook, around halfway, which also has incredible views of Fruita. Hike these earlier in the morning – there’s minimal shade and no water, so they’re pretty exhausting if you’re savagely unfit like me. Also, the trailhead parking is not enormous and it can get busy.
For an easier option, at the same trailhead is the Hickman Bridge Trail (about two miles round trip). This leads to a seriously impressive, 133-foot span natural bridge (bridges are so much cooler than arches, in my opinion). The bridge can also be seen from a short distance away on the Navajo Knobs/Rim Overlook trail.
Time needed | Navajo Knobs is long, hot and steep, so will likely take most people at least 4-6 hours. Hickman Bridge is closer to two hours.
Lunch – Pie and Cinnamon!
Eat all the Pie | the Gifford Homestead, adjacent to Fruita Campground along the Scenic Drive, is a lovely place to stop for lunch. There are picnic tables set in a pretty grassy area, often populated with dear (more often than not).
The Gifford Homestead sells incredible baked goods (with accompanying homemade ice cream). The pies here are famous, for good reason, often made from fruit in the nearby 2000-tree orchard. However, my personal highlight every time I visit are the cinnamon buns. I’m not even a cinnamon bun fan, but these buns are the most incredible baked good I’ve eaten in my life – hands down. Also, they’re gigantic!
Be aware that the Gifford Homestead sells out of produce. On some days, we’ve had no issue picking up our choice of goods and on other days they’ve been sold out mid-morning (on weekends, in particular). If you are a late starter, maybe hit up the baked produce before your morning hike – the Gifford Homestead opens at 9:00 am and shuts at 4:30 pm, between 14th March (Pi Day!) and 24th November (closing dates vary each year).
Afternoon – Panoramas, Arches and Fruit
Scenic Drive (1 hour)
After lunch, check out the Scenic Drive. This 8-mile, panoramic paved route runs along the western side of the Waterpocket Fold, showing off the park’s incredible vistas and panoramas of the colourful cliffs, rock bands and layers. It’s rarely busy and the scenery is magnificent.
There are also two unpaved spur roads along this route that are also worth exploring. For a cute guide for what to see along the road, check out the NPS – they’re written a useful little itinerary.
Time needed | 1-1.5 hours (depending on stops).
Cassidy Arch and Grand Wash (2-4 hours)
Cassidy Arch and Grand Wash | this is a hiking combination that includes some must-see spots, including the 100s-of-feet high Grand Wash canyon and an impressive cliff-side arch.
⬩ If you’re not keen on strenuous hikes (or the Navajo Knobs destroyed you earlier in the day), just take on the Grand Wash Trail (2 miles each way, mostly flat).
⬩ If you’re feeling more energetic, include a hike up to Cassidy Arch (7 miles round trip, 870 feet of elevation change). This one is pretty tiring, so only the super fit can do this *and* Navajo Knobs in a day (I did them on separate days because I’m definitely no athlete).
Park at the Grand Wash Road entrance off the Scenic Drive, which is nearest to the Cassidy Arch trailhead. Technically, Grand Wash can be accessed from two sides – to hike just the Grand Wash, choose either end and hike as far you’d like then turn back (unless you have a second car). I prefer the end nearest the scenic drive, plus the trail is downhill towards State Route 24.
Note | the Scenic Drive is particularly picturesque in the later afternoon, plus the Grand Wash Trail is a little more shaded than the hikes from the Hickman Bridge Trailhead. This is why we choose the morning and afternoon in this order. However, you could easily switch them around if you prefer.
Time needed | Grand Wash is not strenuous, and the entire length (there and back) takes around 1.5-2 hours. Cassidy Arch is strenuous and takes around 2.5-3.5 hours.
Optional: Orchards
If it is fruit season, consider popping into the orchard in the late afternoon and picking some fruit or having a wander through the blossoms. Below is a vague likelihood of the blossom and harvesting months:
Flowering:
⬩ Apricots: early March to mid-April
⬩ Peaches: late March to late April
⬩ Pears: late March to early May
⬩ Apples: early April to early May
Harvest:
⬩ Apricots: late June to mid-July
⬩ Peaches: late July to early Sept.
⬩ Pears: early August to early Sept.
⬩ Apples: mid-August to mid-October
This is very convenient if you are camping in Fruita Campground, as the sites are literally adjacent to the orchard.
Sundown at Sunset Point
For sunset, head back towards Torrey and stop at the Goosenecks, Panorama and Sunset Point trailheads. Pop up to Panorama Point, then drive the short dirt road to Goosenecks and Sunset (the road is totally fine for any type of car).
Head over and look at the views from Goosenecks, then take the short walk (0.4 miles each way) to Sunset Point.
Tip | it’s possible to go a little further than the bench at the end of the Sunset Point trail as there’s a path that leads further down to a ledge. This is a quiet place to sit and watch the sunset, plus you can even climb the giant rock thing in front of you, too – look for the cairns on the top. It’s one of my favourite places in the park!
Dinner in Torrey
We recommend picking up a *crazy* good burger and fries from Capitol Burger (well-earned if you managed to do all the hikes above – I ate mine before I could take a photo). They do impossible burger substitutes for all their options, too, which I really love (getting a top-notch veggie burger in southern Utah is no easy task).
If you’re looking for something a bit more sit down in the evening, Chak Balam does really decent Mexican food in a comfy setting. It’s not the most veggie friendly place, but the salads and chile relleno are good. Anywhere that serves horchata and jamaica (hibiscus) gets a thumbs up from me!
Other Things to Do in Capitol Reef
If you have a little extra time (or hopefully even a few days!) below are some areas that you can dedicate a little time to – off-the-tourist-trail.
Please note that if it has been raining, these routes can become impassable, even with a four-wheel drive vehicle. Check with the visitor centre if in any doubt – they’ve always been really helpful for our trip planning.
Explore the Notom-Bullfrog Road | this partly paved road heads south from State Route 24, east of the visitor centre, running along the Waterpocket Fold from the opposite side to the Scenic Drive. This road leads to the Burr Trail (below) and some entirely empty hikes, including Surprise and Headquarters Canyon – two easy, remote Utah slot canyon hikes that we wholly recommend.
Drive the Burr Trail and Switchbacks | this partly paved trail is one of the most beautiful routes in Utah, starting in Boulder, on Scenic Byway 12, and ending in the southern section of Capitol Reef. This road is worth half a day of your time, especially if you are staying in Escalante before/after your Capitol Reef trip.
Combining the Notom-Bullfrog Road, the Burr Trail and Scenic Byway 12 is referred to as ‘looping the fold’ – driving the entire way around the Waterfold Pocket.
Temples of the Sun and Moon | a part of the extremely remote Cathedral Valley in the northern district of Capitol Reef National Park, this entire area is an adventure just to reach. Cathedral Valley, beyond the Temples of the Sun and Moon, is well worth exploring if you have a four-wheel drive, high clearance vehicle. For more information, have a read of our Temples guide.
Things to do Further Afield
Goblin Valley | Utah’s best state park (in my opinion), with thousands of crazy character-like hoodoos.
Hole-in-the-Rock Road | a goldmine of hikes, slots canyons and even a viewpoint of Lake Powell! High clearance (or at least a lot of patience) recommended for this washboard mess-of-a-road.
Escalante | the (sort of) centre of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. This town has everything, including some of this area’s most popular hikes, like Calf Creek Falls and the Escalante River. For more things to do, check out our dedicated post on Escalante and Byway 12.
State Route 95 | over beyond Hanksville, to the east of Capitol Reef, is an amazing scenic drive that leads through Hite, to the banks of the Colorado River and onwards to Blanding, south of the adventure centre of Moab. It’s an incredible road that takes you all the way to the Navajo Nation and Monument Valley in southeastern Utah. For more information on things to do in that region, check out our post on things to do around Monument Valley.
On the way, there are many, many awesome canyons. Our favourite is Leprechaun, a dramatic but easy to reach slot canyon.
Itinerary Map
Below is a savable Google Map with everything we mention on this Capitol Reef itinerary.
⬩ Yellow are things to do during your one day in Capitol Reef.
⬩ Green are hotel and camping recommendations.
⬩ Orange are places to eat nearby.
⬩ Red are a few things to do further afield.
To view these sections, select the icon in the top left corner of the map.
To save the map, select the star next to the title.
Entry Fees for Capitol Reef
The standard entry fee for Capitol Reef National Park is currently $20 in 2025. This allows access to one car for a week.
However, if you are visiting more than one park in Utah during your trip, consider purchasing the America the Beautiful pass. It costs $80 and provides free access to Utah’s ‘Mighty Five’ national parks, along with a plethora of other places, for an entire year.
If you’re not currently sure if it’s worth it, check out our (hopefully) helpful post on the America the Beautiful pass.
Where to Stay in Capitol Reef
Torrey is the nearest town to Capitol Reef. It’s a tiny but functional little town with decent lodging, a few markets, some nice restaurants and a gas station. We recommend you stay in Torrey, as there are no accommodation options within the park itself (unless you’re down to camp – in which case, see below).
The other option is Hanksville, around a 30-minute drive east from Capitol Reef. This is a helpful place to stay if you are heading towards Goblin Valley or Moab the next day.
If you are heading south down Scenic Byway 12 after your visit to Capitol Reef, we recommend you stay in Escalante.
In Torrey:
Broken Spur Inn | I love, love, love this one. It’s our reliable favourite in Torrey, with large, modern rooms, lovely views in every direction (it’s up on a bit of a hill), and cute, quirky cowboy décor everywhere. They even have wagons you can stay in. Oh, and an indoor pool!
Skyview Hotel | our other favourite is this nearly new, fabulous property with flawless rooms and panoramic glamping pods. We took a risk booking this one with such few reviews, but it’s absolutely one of the best places we stayed during that three-month trip. This one is great for families – the pods even have bunk beds!
We’ve never stayed in Hanksville (we always camp near there instead), however we’ve seen the few accommodation options on offer (they’re far cheaper than Torrey, if you’re on a budget). It’s a bit more isolated and rough out that way, with minimal food options. If I were stopping in Hanksville, though, I’d definitely choose stay in:
Muddy Creek Mining Company | this one has cute cabins, excellent reviews and I quite liked the look of it from the outside – it would definitely be where I’d choose to stay in Hanksville.
We’ve stayed in loads of place in Escalante, and these are our suggestions:
Cowboy Country Inn and Circle D | the most budget options. We’ve stayed in both and in a pinch, they’re okay. Cowboy Country Inn was incredibly quirky, décor-wise (we got the Aztec room), and Circle D had a friendly owner and a nice outdoor chill area. Both are really central, too.
Prospector Inn | also a budget option, this is as close to a standard motel as you’ll find in Escalante. The rooms do everything they should and are clean, plus the motel is centrally located. For some reason, this motel is often sold out (like almost every time we’ve been to Escalante).
Escalante Escapes | oh my goodness, we loved this place! The fresh, modern ‘tiny houses’ have full facilities and fire pits, plus you’ll not find a cleaner place in the town. You can choose you individual home too when you book and they’re perfect for families or groups.
Escalante Yurts | simply immaculate, don’t think of them as basic yurts – you’ll be doing this place a serious disservice. Seriously, take a look at them! Full disclosure – we’ve not stayed in these personally, but a (slightly richer) friend has, and it looked incredible.
Ofland Escalante | they have a range of accommodations for various budgets, from Airstreams, cabins to campsites, all with a huge pool and an old-school outdoor cinema with free popcorn. Perfect for summer nights in the desert – this place was an absolute vibe. Slightly outside of Escalante, though.
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Car Hire for Your Utah Itinerary
We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trip in the United States, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.
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TAKE A LOOK BELOW OR CHECK CAR RENTAL
A Few Torrey Restaurant Suggestions
The Wild Rabbit Café | we loved this place. They did amazing portions of veggie-friendly dishes for moderate prices (seriously loved the Mediterranean eggs benedict, sans bacon).
Capitol Burger | these guys do an almost indecently good mac ‘n’ cheese burger (which can be made with Impossible burgers if you’re vegetarian).
Authentico Street Tacos | we also grabbed some tacos from Authentico, which was magic when we were craving decent Mexican – they even have nopales tacos and burritos!
Color Ridge Creamery | don’t sleep on this one. I still remember the sunny, lazy afternoon where neither of us wanted to hike, but instead just craved millions of calories. This place was off-the-chart cool and cute, with some of the best ice cream I’ve had, in some noteworthy flavours. The Graham-Berry Slam was nothing like anything I’ve tried before. We fully recommend.
Camping in Capitol Reef
Capitol Reef has some super nice camping – we’ve camped here four times and it’s always been excellent. Below are the camping options within the park:
Fruita Campground | this is a developed campground in the most popular, frontcountry section of Capitol Reef, not far from the visitor center. It’s reservable online and books out fast.
Further out:
Cathedral Valley Campground | high clearance, 4WD recommended. About 36 miles (57.9 kilometres) from the Capitol Reef Visitor Center. First-come, first-serve, primitive, no-fee, 6 sites with picnic table and fire grate, pit toilet, no water.
Cedar Mesa Campground | two-wheel drive accessible, unless it has rained, although the access is more comfortable with high clearance. Located on the Notom-Bullfrog Road, approximately 23 miles (37 kilometres) south of Utah State Highway 24. No fee, five sites, pit toilet, no potable water.
Overnight backpacking permits | in Capitol Reef, these are free and available at the visitor center (we got a backpacking permit for Upper Muley Twist same day – the easiness was a refreshing change from all the other national parks in Utah!).
Bureau of Land Management | there is also a lot of dispersed camping options available on BLM land outside the park boundaries.
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When is the Best Time to Visit Capitol Reef?
Capitol Reef experiences all the seasons. The park has elevations varying from 4000-8000 feet, so this has a dramatic effect on the weather.
The best time to visit Capitol Reef is during the spring and fall seasons, when conditions are generally milder.
Winter is snowy and cold, with temperatures dipping a fair bit below freezing. Summer is typically hot, often above 100F degrees and there is a serious risk of monsoon rains throughout the season.
Has Our Free Content Helped You Plan a Trip to Capitol Reef?
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Some Final Thoughts: is Capitol Reef worth it?
When I look at the visitor numbers for Utah’s national parks, I find them kind of surprising.
Arches is adjacent to Moab (and is the iconic imagery on the Utah number plate), and Bryce and Zion are relatively nearby Las Vegas and close to St. George. Their proximity to popular hubs is the only reason I can think of for the reason they would have more visitors than Capitol Reef.
Capitol Reef is genuinely worth visiting and, although I’m not complaining about the minimal crowds, I feel like it’s such an oversight to miss this place. The amount you can see and experience in one day, too, is amazing! It’s such an incredible park with panoramic hikes, drives, and smashing baked goods.
I hope this itinerary helps you plan your southern Utah getaway – have a fantastic trip!
Where to Next?
If you’re visiting Capitol Reef as part of a longer journey, check out our southern Utah road trip – it has all the best spots, including the national parks, but also a whole bunch of less-visited stops that will really elevate your trip.
We’ve spent two years travelling around this region – it’s our favourite place to write about!
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