Thoddoo – Why You Should Visit the Maldives’ Agricultural Heart
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 21 May 2025
Here, we tell you everything you need to know about the Maldives’ agricultural island of Thoddoo, including what we loved and what we didn’t, plus lots of photos to give you an impression of what the island feels like to see if it’s right for you!
Thoddoo is a fairly unique place when it comes to the inhabited Maldives islands.
It’s primarily an agricultural hub, full of papaya trees and watermelons, and not geographically part of any atoll. Despite these differences, it’s an amazing holiday destination, with fruit farms, beaches, lapping turquoise water and a vibrant, hospitable community.
Choosing your Maldives island(s) can be tricky – there are so many and, at first glance, they all seem so alike. Thoddoo is our favourite island, plus the most distinctive – read on to find out why!
IN THIS GUIDE //
A Guide to Thoddoo, the Maldives
WHAT IS THE ISLAND OF THODDOO LIKE?
WHAT ARE THE BEACHES ON THODDOO LIKE?
WHERE TO STAY ON THODDOO
WHAT TO EAT ON THODDOO
COMMUNITY ON THODDOO
HOW TO TRAVEL FROM MALÉ TO THODDOO
FINAL THOUGHTS
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THODDOO – AT A GLANCE
Distance from Malé | 67 kilometres
Size | 2 by 1 kilometres
Population | 2058
Best for | world-class beaches, tourist services, eco-friendly, small, best house reef
Bikini Beaches | two
Atoll | considered part of the northern Ari Atoll
ATMs | one
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What is the Island of Thoddoo Like?
Thoddoo is a large, circular-ish island, one that can take hours to walk around, rather than the typical few minutes! It’s common to get around by bicycle here.
There are a lot of winding, overgrown trails through farmland, filled with all sorts of tropical fruit plants, especially papaya (when we were there). We were told that the island specifically grows Israeli and Pink Lady versions. The farmers are happy for you to wander through, just don’t pick their fruit without permission (obviously).
Depending on the time of year, you might see the famous watermelon fields – they’re planted at the beginning of Ramadan every year. Thoddoo is actually the largest watermelon producer in the Maldives!
On our first evening, we walked down to the beach and saw hundreds of enormous fruit bats swooping between the trees (one shit on my head). What we only figured out the next day was that these bats fly around all day long, like gigantic birds. If you go up to the top of a building and look around, you’ll be able to spot clouds of bats flying between the trees.
This island seemed to have almost no cats, but more lizards than I could possibly count – just something odd that we noticed.
RELATED POST | THE BEST LOCAL ISLANDS IN THE MALDIVES
What are the Beaches on Thoddoo Like?
If you’re heading to Thoodoo for beaches, then you’re in luck.
Thoddoo has two bikini beaches on opposite sides of the island. The first, in the west, is the busier of the two with some loungers and is perfect for sunset. The second in the northeast has less infrastructure, but also less people. There are no accommodation options directly on the beaches; it’s all near the centre and surrounded by farmland.
The beaches in Thoddoo are as lovely as the ones in Ukulhas (in my opinion better) but the bikini sections of them seem smaller. So, there’s a lot less space to strut about in your bikini, if that is your jam. Thoddoo has so many empty stretches of coastline though – it takes a long time to walk around the island and if you are happy to swim and walk in leggings and a top (or covered up in whatever way you choose), you could have an entire section of beach to yourself, all day.
RELATED POST | MAAFUSHI – IS THE MALDIVES’ MOST POPULAR ISLAND WORTH IT?
Where to Stay on Thoddoo
Hotels in Thoddoo are centered around the small town in the middle of the island.
If you are trying to decide on a hotel, be aware that location doesn’t really matter too much (there’s a fair bit of walking or riding to get around this island anyway). Although, if I were to choose, I’d be nearer the western side than the east.
Where we Stayed on Thoddoo
We stayed at Jeym Lodge.
It was centrally located on the island, near the large football pitch in the centre. The beach on the sunset side (western) is less than a 10-minute walk, down a dusty road, under some bat trees, past a goat farm and a plantation. (It’s such an interesting island to stroll around).
We liked this hotel. The rooms were really comfortable, new and modern. The hot water and aircon were perfect, every room had a beautiful terrace surrounded by plants and flowers, plus we were given a tour of the island by the host.
The breakfast was buffet style on the roof, with tuna (obviously) and lots of other great options. Bike hire was free and the front desk could sort out any excursions, including diving.
We don’t really have anything bad to say about this accommodation – fully recommend.
RELATED POST | A MALDIVES BACKPACKER GUIDE
What We Ate on Thoddoo
We were suggested Seli Poeli by our host during our little golf buggy tour of Thoddoo.
During the day it seems unassuming on the outside, hidden away by the tall wooden walls. At night, however, there’s a bright neon buzz to it and this seems to attract humans like moths to a candle. We ate here every night and it was absolutely rammed, both inside and out (a busy vibe which is so, so rare in the local Maldives islands). The food was crazy – like indulgent filthy perfection.
We loved the tuna burgers and tuna pancake rolls (also some amazing sneaky fries). They were *absolutely* not diet friendly options and therefore we thoroughly recommend them as a result.
(Healthy) vegetarian diet resumes.
RELATED POST | WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT THE MALDIVES DRESS CODE
EXPLORE MORE OF THE MALDIVES
Go island-hopping:
Ukulhas | are these the prettiest beaches in the Maldives?
Maafushi | a guide to the Maldives’ most popular spot
Thulusdhoo | experience the surfer paradise of the Maldives
more tips for your trip:
How strict is the dress code in the Maldives?
Read a summary of the best Maldives local islands
Remove the complexity of planning an island hopping itinerary around the Maldives
Learn how to navigate the Maldives public ferries
Quirky things to know for Maldives budget travellers
How much does a two week trip to the Maldives cost?
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Community on Thoddoo
Residents on Thoddoo seem different; less weary of us and more open than people on the other islands we visited. The conversations we had here were interesting and illuminating.
We chatted to somebody who stated that fewer people had to go off-island for jobs at the tourist resorts due to the substantial number of agricultural opportunities available. They spoke about how agriculture has sheltered them from having to experience the worst parts of resort worker problems, such as being away from your family for days at a time.
It wasn’t mentioned so explicitly, but it was clear that there was an amount of resentment towards having no choice but to work in a resort. Brothers I spoke to said they were so glad that local tourism was now allowed on the island, because they could start their own endeavours.
Another man told me that before local tourism, he worked in resorts as it was his only way of earning a living. He expressed huge relief that he didn’t need to anymore. Despite being Muslim (and being legally required to be by his country), on a private island resort he was forced to taste alcohol to make cocktails for foreigners, even during Ramadan. I could imagine this breeding resentment and it makes me uncomfortable. (It’s also made me realise that resorts are a definite no-go during Ramadan for me!).
I’ll write more about these conversations in another post, but Thoddoo was the only island where I felt the opportunity to engage in conversations like that. Across all islands we stayed on, people in the tourism industry were friendly and helpful. Outside of that industry, though, greeting and speaking with people sometimes fell a bit flat. Not on Thoddoo, though – we highly recommend this island if you want to learn a little more about life in the Maldives.
RELATED POST | HOW MUCH DOES A MALDIVES TRIP COST?
How to Travel from Malé to Thoddoo
Public Ferries (MTCC – Maldives Transport and Contracting Company):
The number 303 MTCC Malé to Thoddoo public ferry costs 22 MVR per person. It leaves Malé at 09:00 every Monday and Thursday, stopping off at Rasdhoo and Ukulhas en-route. The ferry’s route (stopping twice at Rasdhoo twice on the way to Thoddoo) means it doesn’t arrive at Thoddoo until 16:20.
The MTCC 303 return ferry from Thoddoo to Malé leaves Thoddoo at 06:30 every Wednesday and Sunday, stopping at Rasdhoo and Ukulhas on the way before arriving at Malé at 14:10.
Have a peek at our comprehensive post for more information: Maldives public ferries – a complete guide
Speedboats:
Public speedboats are usually available once or twice a day and cost about 35 USD per person each way. We recommend arranging through your guesthouse in advance to guarantee a seat, or booking online through 12GoAsia, a reliable transport aggregator we’ve used a lot throughout Asia.
Final Thoughts – Thoddoo, Maldives
Thoddoo was our final island and I’m so grateful – we saved the best until last!
This magical sandy little disc might be out on its own but is full of life and we always felt so welcome. The beaches were magnificent, with overhanging palms and fruit trees cradling the sunsets; the food was the best we ate across the nation, and the island is large enough to get a little lost.
It’s worth noting that if you’re only visiting one island and diving is your priority, maybe consider adding another island to your itinerary. Thoddoo does have excursions available, but because it isn’t technically part of an atoll, some of the dive sites are further away.
The public ferries are also not very regular compared to many other routes, so if you are on a tight budget and miss one, the speedboat will set you back a fair few dollars. We think it’s really worth visiting, despite the slightly inconvenient ferries.
Have an amazing trip, no matter what island you choose!
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