Vietnam is far longer from top to bottom than you’d expect when looking at a map. From tip to toe it is more than 1000 miles, with a width as small as thirty miles at its narrowest. If you are backpacking through Vietnam, it’s almost certain you’ll end up on a Vietnam sleeper bus at some point to traverse some of this distance! Even if you are tempted by the trains, at some point you’ll likely have to reach somewhere that the Reunification Express does not travel, such as Ha Giang

Having been on (far too many) sleeper buses in other countries, we found the Vietnam ones unique! So, here is a little post dedicated to these buses, with some visual representations of the sleeper buses, what the journeys/drivers were like, what we thought of them, their safety and the best way to book your Vietnam sleeper bus. We hope this helps you prepare for your trip through Vietnam!

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We travelled on five Vietnam sleeper buses on our most recent month-long trip through northern Vietnam. On previous visits, we have also taken sleeper buses in central and southern Vietnam. Here are some of our experiences. 

So, to start with, we never got the insane, pimped out buses that you see on the internet with private compartments and televisions. Although we know they definitely exist, do not bet on getting one! Many routes do not offer that type of bus (they seem more common in central Vietnam) and they are often over-exaggerated in photos (this is very common).

Shoes | as you get on the bus, you’ll be handed a plastic bag which you are expected to put your shoes in which you then keep with you at your seat. I was once asked to remove my socks too. 

Storage | there is the standard storage space for large luggage in compartments in the underneath area of the bus. Never put delicate items or expensive electronics in there though because your bags will likely shift about during your journey. We never had any concerns about the safety of our bags, which is contrary to our concerns in places like Mexico and Costa Rica. Onboard, there is not much space for baggage; a small backpack or handbag is all you can really fit on your ‘bunk’ with you. Some buses have an additional rack for smaller luggage near the front, but not all.

Space | if we are being honest, the buses can feel a little claustrophobic when full, especially if you are taller. They’re really not that bad, but I could imagine some people feeling a bit trapped, especially at night in the dark. I felt a little like this on the top layer, furthest back seat.

Power | none of the buses had charging ports/plugs or video screens.

Bathrooms | on about 25 percent of our buses there was a bathroom, but I would not choose to use it unless you are desperate.

Hygiene | we found all the buses were clean enough (the little trays at the foot end were never very clean though). There were no overall hygiene concerns.

Clientele | in terms of passengers, the buses we caught across all our Vietnam trips were ones with more Vietnamese people than foreign tourists. On average, it would be us and maybe two others who did not speak the language.

A standard Vietnamese sleeper bus has seats spanning three rows, with a lower and upper level, or ‘bunk’. Each seat reclines almost to a lie-flat position and your feet are wedged under the head of the seat in front. This is not as uncomfortable as it sounds and honestly, if I got this seat on a plane, I’d be ecstatic!

Do not rely on there being appropriate lighting. One bus we named ‘disco-party bus’ because all night the driver would just change up the pink, red, blue, green and yellow strip lights on a whim. Technically each bunk has an individual light too (although we saw some middle seats without them).

The two strips/rows of outside seats (on the left and right sides) have aircon vents. Once I had a nice man come around show me it. Another time I was given a seat with a broken one so I couldn’t turn it down – was freezing the entire journey.

The seats themselves are wide enough for an average person to sleep on but if you’re tall, you’ll struggle with the length. 

Each seat was equipped with a blanket, plus a pillow that stays attached to the seat – they appeared to be clean (we trusted them anyway). The upper seats have a guard that stops you rolling out of your seat and falling down too. The floor was also cushioned, because sometimes people sleep in the aisles (which is mad because they’re really narrow).

A typical reclining seat on a Vietnamese sleeper bus with cushion and blue and white blanket
Typical Vietnam sleeper bus seat
Seats along the lower level of the Vietnamese sleeper bus with blankets on the reclining seats
Bottom left bunk layer of a Vietnamese sleeper bus

The bus network in Vietnam is run by hundreds of different companies, there’s no centralised online system. This means you have several options.

Accommodation | inquiring with your current hotel or hostel is a good shout for ease. They will almost always be able to arrange a bus for the next day or even same day (tickets never seem to sell out – but definitely prebook around Tet and other holidays). 

Tour agencies | if you are not happy with the price, product or time offered, check out neighbouring hotels and tour agencies. They all somehow have different services with varying costs and times! We rarely booked directly with our hotels. Often, we wanted a particular time of day for our buses, so wandered around until we found someone who offered what we needed.

Bus station | you can also just go to the bus station and get a ticket directly. This will always be the cheapest option (unless you get scammed!). Some bus stations are easier to navigate, such as Sa Pa (they even print their prices clearly on boards) and in Hanoi, My Dinh bus station is easy to navigate too.

12 Go Asia |  another option people really like is 12goasia. This website gives you the option of booking your bus via various companies online – for a very small mark-up. It’s worth checking in advance to get a ballpark amount for how much your trip should cost before you speak to tour agencies. Book in advance during busy times, like Tet.

The seats are not assigned at the time you buy your ticket, so technically they are all up for grabs. However, there is an attendant who sort of chooses where you sleep on your behalf. There does not seem to be much of a pattern but we have always been directed to seats near the back. They have also always sat us in seats next to each other (and also sat a whole random group of us together across the back row because we were white).

I think they were trying to be helpful.

Buses in Vietnam are not that cheap.

Compared with places like Thailand and Laos, we found them to be more expensive. A long-distance bus, if booked through an agent or hotel, can sometimes be upwards of £20 (650k dong) depending on distance. If you go for a complicated route that involves ferries and several buses with changes, you could pay 700k dong or more.

As mentioned above, check for representative prices on 12goasia.

Yes, absolutely! Every time a bus stops, it’s at a kind of ‘service station’ with some food offerings, sometimes a shop and a sketchy squat toilet or two. They stop for 20-30 minutes and almost everyone gets off, leaving their belongings. 

Remember to take your shoes off when you get back on the bus!

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We have taken several long-distance trains (one time was a painful 17 hours on the hard seats trapped with a giant wasp – huge error by us that day), plus more buses than you can count.

Obviously, this is all personal opinion, but here are our pros and cons:

◊ Drops you off at a more convenient location (most of the time)
◊ Normally quicker
◊ Usually more affordable
◊ Sometimes the only option because train routes are limited
◊ Slightly easier to book tickets last minute

◊ Journey comfort does not depend on how ambitious the driver is
◊ It is kind of a rite of passage to ride the classic Reunification Express
◊ Has better views most of the time
◊ You can choose the class of your seat and seat position
◊ Debatably safer

So, I don’t really know which is better. If I were spending a month in Vietnam and travelling from Hanoi to Saigon, I’d almost certainly do a combination of the two. I know that answer isn’t super helpful but it’s the most honest response I have.

Summary – buses are more flexible, trains are more fun!

Vibrant coloured lights on the overnight sleeper bus from Hanoi in Vietnam
Unnecessarily crazy night time lighting on a Vietnamese sleeper bus

Statistically, Vietnamese sleeper buses are safe. 

In terms of accidents, lots of them run every day and it’s rare there is an incident.  This massively depends on your driver though. Some are absolutely perfect, never driving overly fast, swerving around corners or running motorbikes off the road. Others, well, not so much.

Our experience was about half and half with crazy drivers, if we’re honest. It’s also quite difficult to determine how crazy your driver is if you’re at the top of the bus at the back during darkness. These seats get ‘flung around’ the most which make any turns seem more severe, plus you cannot see the road.

Incidents do obviously occasionally happen, like this accident, for example. However, accidents happen in all countries and I wouldn’t be put off taking a journey because of it. The other thing to consider is if you are a nervous passenger – research the route the bus is going to take. For example, the bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang is pretty straight and simple, whereas the bus from Hanoi to Sapa at the end is wiggly and a bit uncomfortable.

In terms of theft and any form of harassment, I definitely consider them to be safe. Vietnamese people get off the bus at rest stops and leave all their belongs on the bus unattended, so they clearly do not expect anything to be stolen. There were also Vietnamese women who choose to travel alone overnight on these buses and were always given an individual seat and not a shared one at the back (see picture below). The buses also always have an attendant present.

We (and all our acquaintances and friends) had nothing untoward happen to us, so would recommend them in terms of safety.

A row of seats on a sleeper bus in Vietnam with blue and pink blankets
The back five seats of a Vietnamese sleeper bus – there’s no separation!

Although it depends on how long your journey is (overnight buses can run from 5 hours to 17+ hours, so that will determine how much stuff you need), there’s always some core items we take with us:

◊ Water
◊ Toilet paper
◊ Disinfectant wipes/gel 
◊ Snacks
◊ Eye mask 
◊ Ear plugs 
◊ Layers in case the air-conditioning is arctic
◊ Inflatable/travel pillow (my favourite item for these buses)
◊ Travel sickness pills if necessary

Rows of sleeper seats on a Vietnamese sleeper bus
View of the top layer on a Vietnamese sleeper bus
A person in black holding a plastic bag containing his shoes for the bus journey
Shoe bag

There are many other buses that are not sleeper buses in Vietnam. We have been on lots of very local buses, high quality ‘limousine buses’, which are usually vans with reclining leather seats, and full-size, posh tourist buses. There are so many varieties! 

Be prepared for your journey to sometimes involve switching vehicles too, because although a type of bus was advertised, it may only be for part of the journey. Our most complex trip involved four types of bus, a car and a ferry over the course of twelve hours (with a three hour wait between buses and a 30-minute wait on the side of a dual carriageway in a car).

Not one bus arrived at the time we were told it would, so don’t put too much faith in any timings.

Sign on the front of a lime green Vietnamese sleeper bus showing its route
Most buses have their location clearly market on the front – this bus goes from Sapa to Cat Ba via Hanoi’s My Dinh bus station
Not sure why he went out of the roof

This post gives an honest recollection of our experiences of Vietnamese sleeper buses and our thoughts on them. In the end, they’re largely reliable (albeit mildly unpredictable), safe, budget-friendly and the most efficient method of navigating this country. They’re almost certainly an essential part of most Vietnam itineraries, no matter the length!

We never get much sleep on them but they get us where we needed to go.

Hope you are lucky enough to get a shiny new VIP bus!


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2 Comments

  1. Thank you for your post!
    We travel with more then 20 kg. Do you think it would be a problem and we should buy an extra ticket?

    1. Hi, I’m sorry so the late reply, I’ve had dengue fever! I don’t think it would be a problem at all – there’s never been a mention of a luggage restrictions and nobody ever checked ours. Have you taken your trip yet? If not, I hope you have a fantastic time 🙂

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