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For me, rural Vietnam is an atmospheric and otherworldly place. It’s packed with jagged karst rocks enrobed in clouds and dripping caves obscured by creeping vines; abundant rice fields reflect the misty morning light and pink lotus flowers dot the hazy rivers. There’s an ethereal quality to the light and scenery in Vietnam and few places are better to experience it than Ninh Binh. It’s one of the only destinations in the world where I felt that I was existing on a film set (the other is Wadi Rum in Jordan). Images of Vietnam are ubiquitous in the media, and this little slice of northern Vietnam did not let me (or my expectations) down.
Ninh Binh is the ideal location to experience everything Vietnam has to offer, beyond just scenery. There is minimal tourism, epic rural adventures and easy access, only a few hours away by train or bus from Hanoi. It’s also extremely affordable – there are no expensive attractions, transport is fantastic value and the food and accommodation, for the price tag, are of high quality.
Of all the places we’ve visited in Vietnam, Ninh Binh was one of our favourite places for just hanging out. Our most recent visit was an entire glorious, unplanned week. We spent every day exploring on a scooter, eating decent food and checking out the magnificent scenery. All this, while staying under budget! This Ninh Binh itinerary and guide contains everything we’ve discovered during our time there about logistics, prices, things to do and more.
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IN THIS GUIDE //
Ninh Binh Itinerary
WHERE IS NINH BINH?
– GETTING TO NINH BINH
– HANOI TO NINH BINH BY BUS
– HANOI TO NINH BINH BY TRAIN
– NINH BINH FROM OTHER DESTINATIONS
– SHOULD YOU DAY TRIP TO NINH BINH?
BEST TIME TO VISIT NINH BINH
WHERE TO STAY IN NINH BINH
FOOD IN NINH BINH
NINH BINH ITINERARY
– NINH BINH ITINERARY MAP
– NINH BINH ITINERARY – THINGS TO DO
FINAL THOUGHTS
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WHERE IS NINH BINH?
Ninh Binh is a province in northern Vietnam, with its capital city sharing the same name. The provincial capital city of Ninh Binh is around 100 kilometres south of Hanoi, Vietnam’s present-day country capital.
The scenic region that most tourists actually visit surrounds the small town of Tam Coc, six kilometres southwest of Ninh Binh.
GETTING TO NINH BINH
Most visitors to Ninh Binh arrive from Hanoi, and occasionally from Hue or Phong Nga in the south.
The most convenient international airport for visiting Ninh Binh is in Hanoi. It’s around 100 kilometres to Ninh Binh and Tam Cốc from Hanoi via a straightforward two-hour journey south by road.
We have done this route by both train and bus – honestly the bus is easier, but the train is slightly cheaper. Book a bus or train ticket, in advance, using 12Go Asia. This company is a reliable aggregator that sells transport tickets in English. Have a look for representative prices if you don’t want to reserve anything in advance or just trying to figure out your budget. More details below.
HANOI TO NINH BINH BY BUS
A bus is the most popular option for transport on a Ninh Binh itinerary. It’s a short, comfortable trip that doesn’t necessitate any sleeper buses! Bus tickets to Ninh Binh are super-easy to arrange with your accommodation in Hanoi – we haphazardly got put on a pimped-out party bus with some day-trippers and the driver just dropped us off in Tam Coc, en-route. It was on-time and comfortable (apart from a very early morning playlist blaring Whitney Houston, which just added to the hilarity – and my headache – at the time).
Alternatively, it is possible to prebook a bus route and company with 12GoAsia. This might be slightly more expensive than arranging in person but is great if you like (or need) to have things arranged ahead of time.
Many buses will pick passengers up from their hotel in Hanoi (or any other city) and drop them off at their accommodation – always check with whoever you book with though. If you are dropped off in central Tam Coc, navigating to your accommodation is simple. ‘Grab’ taxis operate in the Ninh Binh area and there are always people around to give you a lift.
HANOI TO NINH BINH BY TRAIN
The train is by far the most scenic way to travel between Hanoi and Ninh Binh (and Vietnam in general!). It’s a little less comfortable than the bus and a bit slower, but we love train journeys, so don’t mind this. Depending on your baggage, you can even walk to the central train station in Hanoi – it’s only a little past the famous train street everyone raves about (which is not worth the effort in our opinion). After arriving at the train station in central Ninh Binh, you’ll need a taxi if you’re staying in Tam Coc. This makes getting the bus a little less hassle as it usually drops you directly there.
The easiest option for booking train tickets in Vietnam is through 12GoAsia. You can also reserve via the Vietnam Railway official website, but this crashes often, so we’ve never managed to use it despite having taken a bunch of trains in Vietnam. It can be viewed in translated English and claims to accept international credit cards, so if you can get it to work – it’s all good! Maybe we were unlucky and it’s improved since we last tried?
Let us know if you have better luck than us.
NINH BINH FROM HALONG BAY (AND OTHER DESTINATIONS)
Other popular options for departure destinations include Hue further south, and Sapa/Ha Giang in the north, as well as Halong Bay and Cat Ba.
As with everywhere in Vietnam, buses can be effortlessly arranged directly through your accommodation from all these locations. They can also be purchased by visiting the local bus terminal or by reserving a ticket on 12GoAsia.
Many of the routes northbound will stop in Hanoi – we have travelled from Ninh Binh directly to Sapa for example, with a three hour stop in the Old Quarter of Hanoi.
SHOULD YOU DAY TRIP TO NINH BINH?
Day tripping to Ninh Binh from Hanoi is a popular option but we do not recommend this choice unless you are extremely strapped for time. There are a lot of things to do in the area and for a 1.5-2-hour journey each way, it’s just not that much fun, plus you’ll be escorted all the time. We’ve said the same about day-tripping to Halong Bay – you spend more time transiting than actually seeing anything!
Having said that, if you have very little time and no other option but to only spend the day, we’d recommend booking a Ninh Binh day trip with Get Your Guide. The region is absolutely still worth visiting, even with little time.
12GOASIA ON THIS NINH BINH ITINERARY
12GoAsia (One-Two-Go-Asia) is a very reliable website that acts as a broker for transport companies all over southeast Asia. We’ve used them in the past and almost every traveller we’ve ever met in southeast Asia has, at some point, made use of it!
Even if you do not want to book in advance on 12GoAsia (we generally don’t because we have flexible schedules), this website is invaluable for figuring out how much a journey will roughly cost and how long it will be. It’s great for budgeting, planning and getting an idea of what your options are, transport-wise. We highly recommend it. It’s also great for booking any routes that might get busy (or if you are travelling around holidays, like Tet, for example).
Usually, it is cheapest to book onward (non-flight) travel directly with an operator when you arrive. However, it might be worth paying a dollar or two more for the convenience of having everything booked for your trip in advance, giving you more time to explore.
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HALONG BAY ON A BUDGET | COMPLETE HA GIANG LOOP GUIDE
BEST TIME TO VISIT NINH BINH
The best time to visit Ninh Binh is during the first quarter of the year. These months have the mildest daytime temperatures (around 20-25 degrees C) and are perfect for climbing all the stairs at Hang Mua! Generally, the period between November and April is the driest too.
The rainy season in Ninh Binh typically runs from May to September. The summer months see average day temperatures in the low 30s Celsius and average around 50% rainy days. It can be very hot and humid!
If you are visiting to see the flowers, the lotus season in Ninh Binh province typically runs from May to September, carpeting the ponds and waterways with the fragrant pink, white and red blooms.
WHERE TO STAY IN NINH BINH
Although the city of Ninh Binh is a perfectly reasonable place to stay for exploring the region, there are two better location choices.
First, is the charismatic, bustling little village of Tam Coc, the charmer of the region. It’s surrounded by some of the prettiest scenery and has a few tourist comforts like tour agencies, restaurants, hotels and the Tam Coc boat tours.
In Tam Coc, we recommend:
Della Luna Tam Coc | very affordable; lovely owner (she even brought me yogurts when I was sick); fantastic central location, very clean, modern rooms
Nam Hoa Hotel | more of a comfortable, tour group standard hotel with a western vibe (if that’s what you’re looking for); central location
Another possibility is a more rural, homestay-style option in the Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014. Set along the stunning Song Sao Khe (river) to the north of Tam Coc, it is a haven for anyone looking for a peaceful, countryside-heavy stay. This fruitful, lush region is closer to the Trang An boat tours and surrounded by some incredible guesthouses in unfathomably beautiful locations, pressed up against the vertical karst rock cliffs. It’s utterly magnificent, but a little further away from the bulk of restaurants and tourist facilities of Tam Coc.
In Trang An, we recommend:
Trang An Memory Homestay | stunning location at the bottom of the karst rocks; cute pool; lovely clean bungalows; isolated, quiet location, comes highly recommended from our friends!
Lotus Field Homestay | super cute and pretty little huts; crazy beautiful scenery; hosted by a friendly family; great place for a coffee, even if you don’t stay here
FOOD IN NINH BINH
We found the food in Ninh Binh to be typical of most places in Vietnam – great value, decent quality and easy to find. In Tam Coc particularly, there are many chilled out places to grab a beer or something to eat. An added plus is the numerous options to stop and grab a smoothie, beer or some food (often with incredible views) on the route between Tam Coc and Trang An. We also found that this area had more varied, affordable and decent vegetarian options than other parts of northern Vietnam.
Some of our favourite places to eat were:
◊ Buddha Belly Vegetarian and Vegan
◊ Family Restaurant
◊ Chookie’s Beer Garden
◊ Lotus Field Homestay
We don’t recommend the Farm Restaurant and Pub in Tam Coc. This one had a drunk, abusive male owner who tried to intimidate us into paying more and was pretty unpleasant.
We were recommended ‘Nhà Hàng Dê Chính Thu Ninh Bình’, for the speciality goat, but didn’t go because we don’t eat meat.
If you want to see the traditional whole smoked goats by the road, being sold by the kilogram, check them out around the GPS points 20.250317, 105.929586 and 20.249857, 105.928519. Be aware, they’re pretty horrifying.
SAVE FOR LATER – VIETNAM TRIPS
11 Essential Things To Do In Hanoi
A Complete Guide to Riding the Ha Giang Loop
Scooters in Vietnam – Are You Insured?
Ha Long Bay on a Budget
Cat Cat Village, Sapa – Why You Should Avoid It
Three Vietnam Itineraries for Shorter Trips
Vietnamese Sleeper Buses – What Are They Like?
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NINH BINH ITINERARY
Your personal Ninh Binh itinerary will (obviously) depend on how much time you have to spare in the region. Over two visits we spent a total of about 10 days in Ninh Binh, most of which was just whizzing about on a motorbike, taking random side quests whenever we saw them. We have noted some absolute highlights of the region below, along with how long we think each should take. The important, ‘can’t-miss’ sights, are also marked so you can choose to prioritise them too.
NINH BINH ITINERARY MAP
Below is a saveable Google Map of all the locations listed in the post, colour coded.
Restaurants are in green.
Hotels are in purple.
Places of interest are marked in yellow.
◊ To save the map to your Google Maps, click on the star icon by the title.
◊ Select the screen icon in the top left to show or hide the breakdown of sections for this Ninh Binh itinerary.
◊ Click on a tick box to hide/show a section.
THINGS TO DO ON A NINH BINH ITINERARY
HANG MUA VIEWPOINT
This was our favourite thing to do in Ninh Binh. It involves climbing a whole load of pretty (steep) stone steps (we heard it was about 500, but who knows – we didn’t count). These lead up to two karst rock peaks, both with exceptional panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, extending for miles in every direction. The peaks are situated in an ‘ecolodge’, which has a lot of Instagrammy, photo op type spots including a field of lotus flowers (super-beautiful in the right season).
It gets crazy-hot in Ninh Binh (at least for us) so we went first thing in the morning and were the only people on the mountain. Despite the heat, Hang Mua gets rammed with tourists during the day.
Cost: the peaks are within the Hang Mua Ecolodge which has an admission fee of 100K VND per person in 2024, plus a motorbike parking fee of 10K VND.
Distance from Tam Coc: 5 kilometres
Time needed: 1-3 hours depending on how many photos you take and how quickly you can scale the steep stairs (these steps reminded me of Mayan pyramids which are narrow, steep and difficult to climb).
Priority: high
BICH DONG PAGODA
Bich dong, meaning ‘green cave’, is a striking Buddhist pagoda, situated across a small bridge surrounded by lake, very close to Tam Coc’s centre. Anybody who’s checked Ninh Binh on Google Images will almost certainly recognise it!
Continue past the first, very famous ‘Instagram spot’ gate; there is more to explore here than just that one picture-perfect location. Wear sensible shoes, the area can get slippery especially on the steps and in the cave. Also, remember to cover up shoulders and knees – it’s a sacred place. There are, as per usual, some pushy vendors – ignore them. Visit early to avoid crowds.
Cost: entrance is free and motorbike parking is 10k VND (but we’ve heard of people being told 20k). Only stop your motorbike at the furthest point – people will shout at you to stop earlier but they just want to charge you to park in their space or eat in their restaurants.
Distance from Tam Coc: 3 kilometres
Time needed: at least 1 hour
Priority: high
NINH BINH BOAT TOUR
This is a favourite tourist attraction around Ninh Binh, with the inspired ‘foot-rowing’ method used by rowers.
There are two popular boat tour options if you want to float through hair-skimming caves and karst mountain scenery. The first is at Tam Coc, the second is in Trang An. There are pros and cons to each, but both provide an experience through the countryside from a river perspective.
A third, quieter boat tour option, with less tourists, is at the Van Long Nature Reserve. Located to the North of Tam Coc, the boat tour here is much less well-known and is fantastic for bird watching through the wetlands.
Costs in 2024: Tam Coc – Option 1 (shorter) 250K VND per person or option 2 (longer) 340,000 per person, Trang An – 250K VND per person, Van Long – 100K per person
Distance from Tam Coc: 0 – 11 kilometres
Time needed: 2-4 hours depending on boat tour of choice
Priority: high
WHICH NINH BINH BOAT TOUR IS BEST?
Most visitors assign a few hours of their Ninh Binh itinerary to floating aside the incredible karst rocks. So, which boat tour is best?
There are several to choose from – the Tam Cốc boat tour or the Trang An boat tour.
On paper they both look similar:
Tam Cốc boat tour | this costs either 250K or 340K VND per person. The boat tour lasts about 1.5 hours – departs from ‘Tam Coc Van Lam Pier’.
Trang An boat tour | this costs 250K VND per person and lasts 2-3 hours – departs from ‘Phòng vé Bến thuyền Tràng An’. There are three route options.
Our suggestion: the Trang An Boat Tour.
On our Ninh Binh itinerary, we chose the Tam Coc boat tour based on various factors including price and location. However, we would definitely recommend taking the Trang An boat tour instead as we did not have a positive experience with our rower in Tam Coc. We’ve written more about our Tam Cốc boat tour on a separate post – check it out if you’re interested.
Not everyone has had a negative experience on this boat tour of course, but it is definitely something we thought to mention if you are trying to decide which to choose. Have a read of the reviews on Google for ‘Tam Coc Van Lam Pier’ if you’re curious and also check out review for the Trang An equivalent.
When we go next go back to Ninh Binh, we’ll take the Trang An boat tour and update this post with which one is best!
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VIETNAM ITINERARIES | 11 ESSENTIAL THINGS TO DO IN HANOI
HOA LU ANCIENT CAPITAL
This ancient, thousand-year-old site was the capital of Vietnam between 968 and 1009. Nestled between limestone mountains, Hua Lu was positioned in a strategic defensive location alongside the nearby Hoang Long River, which provided the city with access to trade routes and fresh water. When the capital was transferred to Hanoi in 1010, Hoa Lu was abandoned and fell into ruin.
Much of the site exists today through restoration works, such as the citadel, which was rebuilt in the 17th century. The relatively small, but spacious, site of Hoa Lu is now home to , amongst other things, two temples from different dynasties and the Tomb of the First Emperor.
The site is pretty, the grounds well-kept and the ruins historically significant, however unless you are a big Vietnamese history fan, it’s not worth putting at the top of your itinerary. Considering Hoa Lu was a former capital, it’s not that grand and reasonably small – you don’t need a guide or transport around it. We’d recommend a short stop here as part of a longer Ninh Binh itinerary.
Cost: 20K VND
Distance from Tam Coc: 13 kilometres
Time needed: 1 hour
Priority: low
BAI DINH PAGODA
This massive Buddhist temple complex is part of the Trang An UNESCO heritage site and is a surprisingly remarkable sight. Bai Dinh covers an area of more than five square kilometres with over a dozen sights to see within it, including the impressive 13-storey Báo Thiên Stupa, two temples (one is the largest in Vietnam), many hundreds of metres-tall stone statues, and a ten-metre high, 100-tonne statue of Buddha. Although this complex exudes an ancient, historic vibe, the majority is actually relatively new and was completed in 2010!
Bring decent shoes for this site, it’s big. Plus, make sure you go up the stupa for the magnificent panoramic views.
When we visited Bai Dinh Pagoda there was free entry, however we have heard there is now a charge of 60k VND for the bus to the site. There is a separate 50k VND charge for entry up Báo Thiên Stupa and an all-encompassing 200k entry ticket which includes the bus, Stupa entrance and use of electric shuttles on site. There is a fee of 15k VND for motorcycle parking and 40k VND for cars.
Distance from Tam Coc: 13 kilometres
Time needed: 3-4 hours
Priority: medium
TRY THE REGIONAL SPECIALITIES
De Tai Chanh is a speciality of Ninh Binh, consisting of locally reared mountain goat cooked with lemon juice and a combination of chilli, garlic, pepper and sesame. Apparently, this dish is special due to the goats’ diet and lifestyle – they roam free on the mountains with a unique diet of vegetables and herbs. We’ve not tried this personally; it doesn’t sound appealing (and looks even less so on the side of the road!). Nevertheless, it’s a speciality and any foodie visiting Ninh Binh should give it a go.
Another, slightly less horrifying speciality is com chay. This is glutinous rice which is cooked, pressed, dried and then cut into shaped blocks before being deep fried and served with meats (often goat) or vegetables.
EXPLORE THE COUNTRYSIDE
This is a bit vague, but if you’re hanging around the Ninh Binh area for a few days, you’ll be at least a little tempted with a jaunt down some unknown road (surely?). There are water buffalo in the fields, lotus-carpeted rivers, narrow tracks dotted with small shrines and serene little water-side places to have a coffee.
It is easy to get around on either a bicycle or scooter, depending on your preference. Per day, a scooter costs around 120k VND a day (quality will vary – we had three bikes break down). Bicycle rental is normally around 80-100k VND.
We absolutely loved spending our days looking for alternative views and angles of the surrounding landscapes and seeking a new, beautiful sunset spot every evening. For example, check out this empty road just outside Tam Coc at 20.224193, 105.916780 for sunset, easily accessible by bicycle.
FINAL THOUGHTS – NINH BINH ITINERARY
I find it astounding that so many people miss this little region off their Vietnam itinerary or bucket list. It’s probably the prettiest place we’ve visited in Vietnam, along with Ha Giang in the far north, and even has really easy access from Hanoi.
Vietnam, as a country, is one of the most chaotic, feverish and vibrant that we have ever visited. However, Ninh Binh encapsulates everything wonderful about Vietnam and wraps it in a soothing, calm little bow. If you are looking for a break from frenetic Hanoi – this is the perfect place!
Ninh Binh probably won’t remain tranquil, serene and peaceful for much longer though – the region seems like a prime target for excessive development and gentrification. The irony of promoting this place isn’t lost on us, but we figure people are going to visit whether they read this blog or not, so they may as well get information from a reliable source. Having said that, please keep your money local and respect the people and environment when you visit.
Have a fantastic trip to Vietnam!
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Thank you, Claire + Nick
Thanks so much for the great insight. I actually use your blog to try and find the less touristy things to do! Currently in Vietnam and planning my Ninh binh trip based off your post.
Hi Amber,
That’s awesome! We’re really glad to have been of help.
Thank you for bringing such valuable insights on your
blog. Your approach to showing the intricacies of photography
makes your posts absolutely captivating. It’s clear that an immense amount
of knowledge and passion goes into your work, rendering it a valuable resource for photography enthusiasts such as myself.
Keep up the great work, and thank you for expanding our
knowledge of photography. Warmest regards, Anja
Hi Anja,
Thanks so much for your lovely comment 🙂
Thanks a lot guys! This is the best blog on Vietnam we have found. Very accurate!
Hey! Great blog.
Is it essential to rent a motorbike in Ninh Binh? Is it worth going if not confident to rent one?
Hi Alexia,
Thanks for your comment. We think it’s definitely worth visiting Ninh Binh, even without a motorbike.
If you’re not confident driving a motorbike, lots of people ride bicycles around the main areas of Tam Coc and Trang An (if you can tolerate the weather and temperatures – it can sometimes be hot or wet). It’s also possible to hire a driver to get around those areas too – it might be worth enquiring with your accomodation about this.
Hope this helps and you have a good time 🙂
Thank you soul MUCH! I included many of the things you recommended in my soon to happen visit to Nin Bihn.
Thanks for the blog! Great insight too! We will be heading to Ninh Binh in September
Thanks for the information! We booked 5 nights and cut one in Hanoi as it seems so beautiful and we love nature. I was not sure if it’s too long but after reading this it seems like it’s good. We are going in Feb. 2025 😊
Hi Elaine,
Happy to have been of help.
I hope you have a great time 🙂