How to Choose the Perfect Moroccan Riad for Your Dream Trip
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 28 Oct 2024
Choosing a riad in Morocco can be an overwhelming experience – there are just so many and they’re all different! Here, we’ve written about what riad accommodation is like, examples of our favourites, and pros and cons of a riad stay, so you can confidently organise your own visit to these resplendent homes.
Moroccan artistry and aesthetic are legendary, and there is no better way to appreciate them than in a traditional Moroccan home-turned-guesthouse, typically termed a riad.
A stay in a palatially-decorated Moroccan riad is a quintessential experience for any visitor. Most tourists plan at least a few nights in one of these enchanting, romantic guesthouses, eager for a taste of the famed, authentic Moroccan hospitality and a glimpse of bygone ages.
While boho-chic décor has grown in popularity across the world relatively recently, the wealthier Moroccan homes have been characteristically adorned this way for centuries. The craftsmanship and lavish embellishment of these historical heritage buildings is second to none, with out-of-this-world tiling, complex geometric patterns and intricate plasterwork, all tied together with bold hues, often of deep red and orange.
So, what are these enigmatic lodgings actually like? Where are they located, what facilities do they have, and should you stay in one?
IN THIS GUIDE //
How to Choose Your Moroccan Riad
WHAT IS A MOROCCAN RIAD?
PROS AND CONS OF STAYING IN A MOROCCAN RIAD
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN A DAR AND RIAD
CHOOSING YOUR RIAD
– CHECKING INTO YOUR RIAD
ALTERNATIVES TO RIADS
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR – RIAD ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN
OUR RIAD EXPERIENCES
ORIGINS OF THE MOROCCAN RIAD
THE OLDEST RIAD IN MOROCCO
FINAL THOUGHTS – MOROCCAN RIADS
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What is a Moroccan Riad?
The term ‘riad’ comes from the Arabic ‘رياض’ which means ‘gardens’ in English. To be precise, ‘riad’ refers to an enclosed garden. However, this phrase is now used to refer to a specific type of traditional home in Morocco.
In simple terms, a riad (or riyad/ryad) is a multi-storey building where the rooms and common areas are concentrated around an open air, central courtyard. The rectangular enclosure is usually decorated with a centrepiece, like a fountain or spring (sahrîdj), with plants and seating surrounding it. An example of this type of garden courtyard layout can be seen on a grand scale within the Bahia Palace in Marrakech (we would recommend a visit).
The traditional buildings are typically white or neutral coloured, constructed with strong, thick walls. There will likely be minimal, modest décor on the outside, concealing a usually sumptuous, extravagant interior. These homes are common across Morocco, located in the older parts of a city – an area called the medina. These ancient walled medinas are often the heart of the community and where most tourists choose to stay.
Should You Stay in a Riad?
Below are a few benefits and negatives of staying in a Moroccan riad.
Obviously, each individual property is unique and this list will not apply universally. Also, the more money you spend, the more comfortable and fewer of the negative points will apply!
The ‘cons’ list looks longer, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t stay in a riad. This list is just to make sure expectations are met and visitors with certain requirements can ensure they get what they need.
Nothing below should come as a surprise; riads are older buildings and their facilities reflect this.
Pros
+ Normally in a central location
+ Beautifully decorated, even budget ones
+ Highly personalised, tailored service
+ Breakfasts tend to be intricate and freshly made – no buffets
+ They commonly have roof terraces with lovely views
+ More local cultural experience, but still be comfortable
+ Quiet – no traffic noise, but courtyard volumes can be crazy
+ Small number of rooms – 5-10 is common
+ Opulent to homely – wide range of prices to suit any traveller
Cons
– Rarely any external windows so rooms are darker
– Heating can be lacking (even if listed as a room feature)
– Some do not have aircon – always check
– Often strange shaped, smallish rooms
– No on-site parking
– Many do not have typical Western amenities, i.e. gaps around doors, padlocks for security, no TV or 24-hour reception, etc.
– Can be difficult to locate!
– Old buildings – lack of modern amenities in bathrooms, sometimes less hot water – solar water heating is common
– Alcohol may not be allowed, check if this is important for you
– Sometimes limits on guests being unmarried (usually only for Moroccan nationals though)
– Very tight stairs, no elevators, could be difficult with physical disabilities or awkward luggage
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DAR AND A RIAD
In some cases, accommodation in Morocco may be called a dar, rather than a riad (and in other places, like Tunisia, most traditional homes are called dars). The term dar comes from the Arabic ‘دار’ and translates to ‘house’ in English.
A dar and a riad are quite similar. The main difference is that a dar is often smaller than a riad and instead of a large central garden area, contains a central courtyard instead. This courtyard could be simple or intricately decorated, depending on the owner. As many Moroccan guesthouses don’t have an internal garden (either they are too small or they have put a pool in!), the terms ‘dar’ and ‘riad’ are used interchangeably.
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Choosing Your Riad
There are so many riads in Morocco’s imperial cities, it’s genuinely mind-boggling trying to choose one. There are 1500 just in the old town of Marrakech alone!
We went through all of our requirements (on the pros and cons list above) and decided what was important to us. For example, we prioritise women owned and run places, wherever possible, across the world, and we usually prioritise proximity to parking, and room brightness. I also didn’t want to lug my backpack for half an hour across the medina, so general location is important to us, too.
In Morocco, we exclusively used Booking.com. It has the most affordable prices and generally the best cancellation policies, too. We also prefer the messaging and questions section, especially when booking riads which are all very individual and have specific rules.
Booking.com also has the most property reviews, by a mile, making it easier to trust your decision.
Be aware that a lot riads have very few rooms, so popular ones do sell out. If you have a favourite, don’t wait to book it!
Checking into Your Riad
One thing to note is that in most of the riads we have stayed at, it has taken a while to get checked in (sometimes 30 minutes or more). Commonly, you are given mint tea and sometimes snacks and cake in the courtyard while you fill in multiple forms by hand containing your entire life details.
This is worth noting if you arrive particularly tired or are feeling a little unsociable after a long flight!
Also, we were never asked to show a marriage certificate, but did have to present both passports upon check in each time.
ALTERNATIVES TO RIADS
If you do not want or are unable to stay in a riad, that’s totally okay!
Morocco has lots of standard hotels and homestays outside of the medina areas. We have stayed in a huge range of accommodations in Morocco, including homestays, fully serviced aparthotels, western style city hotels, semi-resort style hotels, hotels in the desert, guesthouses on the coast, and more.
However you want or need to travel in Morocco, it can cater for you.
Be aware that larger hotels do not exist inside the medina walls of cities. However, there are usually modern hotels with good access just outside. Use the maps on Booking.com to look at what is nearby. We’ve used this method when we’ve needed to be near our car.
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Things to Look Out For in Your Riad
Beyond having a particular building layout, riads also have very individual, world-class design and style specifics. Here are a few things you’ll probably observe in most riads:
Size | although often small, riads can feel labyrinthian. Especially since the buildings can be two storeys or more with narrow corridors.
Natural cooling | smaller windows and an open central space are a practical way to help manage the varied climate of northern Africa.
Privacy | inward facing windows and an internal garden are designed to maximise privacy. This compound style of architecture is seen all over the Arab world in various forms, upholding traditional Muslim family values.
Culture | Moroccan culture isn’t about being overly ostentatious, externally. Riad exteriors are unpretentious but have detailed, lavish furnishings and decorations on the inside instead.
Entrance | there is usually a ‘setwan’, a simple sitting area where guests can be received.
Rectangular courtyard | this is often filled with plants and set around a water-based centrepiece, like a fountain or an ornamental stone basin. Water and flora represent a garden-like eternal paradise or heaven (‘Jannah’ in Arabic Islam), so it’s an important feature of a riad.
Wood | highly intricate wooden lattices and doors are common. Wooden furniture pieces are often antique heirlooms and made from hand-carved wood.
Adobe brick | many buildings in places like Marrakech were built using a traditional combination of soil, sand, straw, stone and even sometimes date palm fibres.
Geometric patterns and tiles | floors and walls of the inner courtyard are decorated with complex handcrafted patterns in ceramic tile, wood or ornamental plasterwork. Particularly striking are the coloured traditional mosaics made from Andalusian Zellij tiles.
Tadelakt | particularly in Marrakech, walls are decorated with a distinctive, waterproof, lime-based plaster, sourced from the Atlas Mountains. However, this traditional method is less common in newly renovated properties.
Columns | riads sometimes have ornate pillars and archways that lead between rooms – reminiscent of the Roman villas.
Quranic calligraphy | ornate writing from the Quran is used as decoration. You’ll not likely see depictions of living figures due to Islamic tradition forbidding the representation of living beings in decorative arts, as it’s considered to be idolatry.
Mosaics and marble | inspired by the Roman design (the founder of Morocco, Idris I, actually settled in the Roman city of Volubilis in the 8th century).
SOME OF OUR RIAD EXPERIENCES
We’ve stayed in quite a few riads across Morocco. Below are some of the ones we consider to be a highlight, especially in the imperial cities which are popular for riad stays.
Our travel style is mid-range budget. So, if you travel in the middle budget level, like us, they might be perfect for you! Even if you are not the same budget range as us, every riad below has an absolutely superb location, so choose somewhere nearby them.
Riad Yacout, Meknes | smashing location right next to the famous gates and opposite a large car park in a square (the only riad from which we could see our car!). The room was larger than expected, had a television and was super comfortable and so quiet. The external window was a pleasant surprise.
Riad Toyeur, Fes | this was probably our favourite Moroccan riad experience, ever. The super comfortable room was immaculate and huge, with massive internal and external windows, great lighting and a large terrace. Seriously, the room was substantial. Breakfast was also magic in the courtyard full of singing birds. Views of sunsets over Fes from the rooftop were epic and the staffed public car park was only a few minutes away. The owners were the absolute nicest and spoke fluent, colloquial English. We have nothing bad to say about this place (apart from that I don’t like birds in cages, but that’s absolutely everywhere in Morocco).
Riad Dar Awil, Essaouira | this little riad was so lovely with such a friendly, helpful owner. Our room was super comfortable – it had the best bathroom and hottest water of our entire journey, with internal and external windows again (we seemed to get lucky on this trip!). The breakfast was served in the kitchen dining area downstairs with candles and tagine-cooked spiced eggs and more – easily one of the best breakfasts of our trip. Parking was around a five-minute walk from the large car park outside the walls.
Riad El Habib, Marrakech | one of the smartest, prettiest riads we stayed in, a stone’s throw from the main Jemaa el Fna square – you could see the vendors from the rooftop, and you won’t get lost looking for it! The riad is also situated close to the bus stop nearby the Koutoubia Mosque, which is useful if you want to get to the airport or train station (we’ve used both routes – very easy and straightforward). The owners spoke outstanding English and the rooms are smart and comfortable, but compact.
Riad Dar Soufa, Rabat | the owner of this riad was especially lovely and so helpful with providing things to do around Rabat. Her riad is listed with individual room names, so you can choose the exact one you want to stay in. We choose an enormous roof top room, so had loads of daylight. This riad had a particularly nice breakfast and top-notch location, right in the heart of the medina, around a 20-minute walk from the train station.
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Origins of the Moroccan Riad
The first recorded Moroccan riad was built in the 12th century in Marrakech, under the Almoravid Berber Dynasty.
The origin of a riad’s architecture hails from ancient Persia and Mesopotamia, where homes were centred around courtyards. During the time of the Roman Empire these designs were gradually modified and implemented throughout the controlled lands, which included the Magreb region of northern Africa where modern-day Morocco is located.
After the establishment of a Moroccan Islamic State in the 8th century, the Arab Muslim Idrisid dynasty built one of the first Mosques and Islamic universities in Fes, now known as the famous Kairaouine Mosque and University. This initiated the spread of Islamic architecture across what is now known as Morocco and can be found in the centre of the ancient Fes El Bali section of the city.
The impact of the various Berber and Muslim dynasties, Moorish and western African (Sahrawi) influence and colonisation from European countries like France, Spain and Portugal through the centuries have left a distinctive mix of architectural styles in Morocco.
Many of these influences can be identified clearly in riads today, from the Andalusian Zellij tiling and Quranic calligraphy to Arabic arches and Berber adobe bricks.
While Morocco was a French protectorate in the first half of the 20th century, focus was put on developing the new town area of cities, so many of these majestic ancient structures fell into disrepair. However, over the past 50 years, architects and investors from Europe arrived and renovated many of these dilapidated buildings. For example, Belgium-born Moroccan-architecture expert Quentin Wilbaux, who has restored more than 137 properties in the Medina of Marrakech to their former glory using traditional methods.
THE OLDEST RIAD IN MOROCCO
The oldest existing Moroccan riad is Dar Cherifa, which is found in Marrakech’s medina. It dates back to the 16th century and, after a period of restoration, was re-opened in 2000 as a gourmet café.
It’s still running with a classic Moroccan menu, if you’re interested in visiting a 500 year old riad!
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ARE YOU CONSIDERING RENTING A CAR IN MOROCCO?
We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trips in Oman, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia, Jordan and Morocco, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.
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TAKE A LOOK BELOW OR CHECK CAR RENTAL
Choosing a Moroccan Riad – Where to Next?
Riads in Morocco have become a tourist institution at this point. Every Instagram post from Morocco has images of the characteristic tiles and rooftop breakfasts in these ancient, imperial cities.
We loved our stays – each individual building was unique and every experience distinct. No matter how many riads you stay in, the next one will be markedly different from the last!
These quirky differences do mean that if you have any specific requirements (like disability access, etc.), you’ll need to do a little more research than for a traditional hotel. However, I genuinely believe that there is a riad for everyone (one of the owners of a riad we stayed in used a wheelchair and he told us about how he got around the medina).
For lots more helpful hints, tips, oddities and facts we learnt during our journey, check out our essential Morocco travel tips and for more inspiration, have a look at our Atlas Mountains itinerary, Morocco’s prettiest village or our 11 favourite outdoorsy, nature adventures in Morocco!
We hope you have a magical stay in Morocco, whatever you choose!
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Thank you, Claire + Nick
