Battambang Itinerary: the Best Way to Spend Two Days in Cambodia’s Art Hub
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 20 Jul 2025
Are you planning a trip to Battambang, or maybe wondering if you should visit? We weren’t sure if it was worth it, but ended up adoring our time in Cambodia’s peaceful north west corner! Our two-day itinerary and city guide, including food recs, things to do, transport advice and hotel suggestions, gives you everything you need to know to have a fantastic visit!
Battambang, pronounced Battam-bong, is Cambodia’s artistic hub and third largest city, but don’t let that statistic fool you – it has an unexpectedly tranquil and sleepy vibe. The city is maybe a bit like you imagine Siem Reap to be, only without the throngs of tourists and world-renowned wonders.
So, you may be asking yourself, is there actually enough to do in Battambang, and is it worth visiting?
The answer is yes!
It may be low-key, but there are loads of things to do, people to meet, places to stay and meals to eat. Whether you’re here for the colonies of bats, hilltop temples, community-minded restaurants, or never-ending rice-carpeted countryside, it’s a great place to visit for several days as part of your Cambodia trip. This is especially relevant if you’re in nearby bustling Siem Reap and want to visit somewhere a little more unusual and off the tourist track.
We actually missed Battambang during our first visit to Cambodia, and I regretted not making the journey. On our most recent trip, I was insistent that we don’t make the same mistake twice – and I’m very happy with that decision and cannot wait to return.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you book through these links we may make a small commission at zero cost to you. It helps us pay for the upkeep of this blog. Thank you!
A Little Essential History
Battambang has a tragic history, which is why we thought we’d mention it here – it’s imperative to try and appreciate the places we visit through their past.
The city has always been a centre for music and the arts. I read that this was because the verdant land around the city was so fertile that land workers had enough spare time to dedicate to music, drawing and performance.
However, creatives were not tolerated by the Khmer Rouge, who ruled in the mid 1970s onward. Artists were deemed freethinkers, and the city’s population suffered heavily under the regime.
The genocide took a particularly large toll around Battambang (apparently 90% of artists in the region were murder victims under the horrific Khmer Rouge policies). The city’s population was evacuated, executed, had their land seized, and were forced into concentration camps.
The trauma of genocide endures through generations, and although Battambang has re-emerged as an artistic force in Cambodia, it’s important to understand what the city has been through in its recent history.
So, is Battambang Worth Visiting?
Yes, Battambang is definitely worth visiting! It might even be my favourite place in Cambodia.
The city is a great addition to any itinerary – it’s a quiet, artsy hub that is unlike anywhere else in the country. Even if you only have time for a day trip from Siem Reap, we’d highly recommend you check it out.
Below are the best things to do in the area to inspire you, including a quick suggested itinerary if you have two days.
The 10 Best Things to do in Battambang
1. The Bamboo Train
This is one of the most popular things to do in Battambang.
The train, or ‘norry’ (a play on the French for lorry), is a hand-powered, open carriage platform that is propelled along by a guy with a basic motor type mechanism. It was actually used to transport people and goods since the early 20th century, but nowadays just ferries groups of tourists about for entertainment.
It’s not really our vibe, so we skipped this particular activity in Battambang. It feels a little contrived for our tastes, and the vendors at the end of the line can be a little insistent. It’s just not our cup of tea. However, lots of people rave about it, so maybe give it a go.
It’s a staple on the one-day tours we mention above, so you’ll almost certainly be doing this activity if you opt for one!
Remember to take a hat and sunscreen for this one.
Fee: $5 per person
2. Phnom Banan Temple
Set at the top of 350-plus uneven steps, flanked by statues, these 11th century temple ruins are around 20 kilometres south of the city, and the most reminiscent temple in Battambang of Angkor Wat, in my opinion. It’s five towers are wrapped in jungle and feels the wildest of the ruins we visited.
The site has also got some smashing views from the top, only surpassed by the temples atop Phnom Sampov (see below).
It’s a really hot, tiring climb up, so bring some water (and even a snack if exercise makes you peckish). There are a bunch of vendors at the bottom that will sell you water if you need it (they know what they’re doing with all those dehydrated hikers).
Fee: $1
3. The Battambang Bat Cave
This is probably the second most famous thing to do in Battambang – watch the millions of bats exit from the limestone karsts of Phnom Sampov, a little south of town.
We found this activity a little troublesome – read more about it on our post about the caves.
4. Battambang Central Market (Psar Nat)
The main historic market in Battambang is right in the centre of the city, set in a rather striking, slightly ugly, 1930s, yellow-ish art-deco building (I’m certain that other people would disagree with me on the ugly thing, though). It really reminded me of Ben Thanh Market in Saigon.
It’s a typical southeast Asian market, selling everything from fabrics to fresh fish and fruit. The wet market side of the market can smell a bit grim if you’re unaccustomed, so we’d recommend you skip it if you’re sensitive (like I am!).
One thing that’s not typical with this market is that there’s nobody really trying to sell you things. It lives up to Battambang’s reputation as a chill town – although you’ll still be expected to haggle a bit!
There are quite a few food stalls to wander around where you can grab a snack or meal, which were the highlight for me. There are all sorts of interesting options, from insects and snails, to smoothies and soups.
5. The Cambodian Circus
The Cambodian Circus, run by a charity called Phare Ponleu Selpak, is a fantastic way to spend an evening in Battambang and also support a great cause. It’s a no-animal performance of acrobatics and music, telling traditional Cambodian stories through art. It’s really cool!
There’s currently two locations for the Cambodian Circus; we saw a performance in Siem Reap and highly recommend a visit.
We’ve written a bit about why we loved it (and which seats are best). Take a read to see if it might interest you.
6. Killing Caves
A reminder of the horrors of the Khmer Rouge regime, this sombre stop halfway up Phnom Sampov Mountain is worth visiting to gain some perspective of the horrors at the time.
There are actually several caves, but the main cave is down a few steps and has a memorial mausoleum and pagoda which still holds some of the skulls and bones of the thousands of victims who were killed here.
Fees: the caves are free entry, but a guide may be useful for this site. Plus, donations are appreciated. It’s a dollar to get a lift up the mountain if you don’t have your own scooter (it’s a steep, long walk. Even on a motorbike, we found it hard going). It’s also a dollar to take a scooter up.
7. Wat Ek Phnom
This quirky stop is found a little out of town, to the north. It’s a combination of a rather striking Buddhist temple, a giant Buddha statue and an Angkor-style ruin from the 11th century.
We particularly loved this spot because, although Battambang is pretty quiet, it was *extra quiet*. Like, there was only one other person the entire time we were there.
The Buddhist temple’s ceiling is particularly impressive, so spend some time looking up! The artwork is incredible.
Also, grab an amazing fruit smoothie just along the road beside the temple complex – they were some of the best we had!
Fees: $1 per person
8. Check Out Some Art
Battambang is known for its art!
It’s worth checking out a few of the local artist hubs in town, such as Romcheik 5. This modern art gallery and café was right next door to our hotel, so we visited a few times, and it was really worth it!
For a small, locally run gallery it’s surprisingly large, with several floors showing exhibitions of genuinely unique art (no photos allowed of the art, so I can’t show you any here – you’ll have to visit!). It’s beautifully curated and some of the exhibits are very poignant – portraying Cambodian culture and history.
Even if you’re not really into the art side of things, the café itself is immaculate with some excellent food, so we highly recommend it! There are great veggie options, too.
Fees: $5 per person, $2.50 for people under 26.
9. Heritage Homes
Located in Battambang’s southern district of Wat Kor/Voat Kor, Mrs. Bun Roeung’s Ancient House is a lovingly cared for traditional Khmer house that has been opened up to the public.
The 1920s house is viewable via a tour, which can be given in English, Cambodian or French. We arrived in the morning, just after a small group of French tourists, so had to wait a little for a tour in English with the niece of the original owner.
After taking our shoes off at the bottom of the stairs, we were given a tour of the building, with information on materials, architectural house styles in Battambang, plus a brief history of the original owners and the impact the Khmer Rouge had on their family. At the end there’s a little gift shop to buy locally made crafts.
Our tour lasted about 30 minutes, but could have been if we didn’t read all the informational signs. I usually get bored with tours, but this one was quite nice and gave a great insight into typical Cambodian life.
Fees: $2 per person
10. Phnom Sampov’s Hilltop Temples
At the top of Battambang’s famous bat cave mountain, Phnom Sampov, are some Buddhist temples.
I remember at the time thinking that these were the prettiest temples I’ve seen in a long while, and it’s crazy that people don’t bother to check them out and choose only to see the bats.
We visited a little before sunset and the light was magical – the buildings gleamed with a warmth that only comes with low light. It was beautiful and the vast views across the agricultural surroundings were genuinely epic.
As almost every Battambang visitor goes to the Killing Caves and also watches the bats, we’d highly recommend checking out the hilltop temples, too! Access up the hill, to see all of these, costs a dollar.
Be careful of the monkeys and never feed them. They are not to be trusted – we saw them stealing things.
A Two Day Battambang Itinerary
Day 1 – the touristy spots
Optional early morning – head to the central market around 6-7 am and have a look around.
Morning – start the morning at the Bamboo train. It’s unshaded and hot, so this makes sense to visit earlier in the morning. A round trip on the train takes around an hour.
Late morning – take a quick wander around Wat Kor Village, and take a tour of Mrs Bun Roeung’s Ancient House.
Lunch – head to the centre of Battambang to walk around, check out the market if you missed it in the morning, and grab a meal at one of the cafes. We’d recommend The Fringe for a wide variety of healthy veggie options (everything is honestly amazing here, but the Buddha Bowl, in particular, fulfilled my urgent vegetable craving), or The Lonely Tree Cafe, which is exquisitely decorated and supports disadvantaged people in the community.
Afternoon – head over to Banan Temple and climb the billion stairs to the summit. This should take an hour or so.
Evening – late afternoon, head over to Phnom Sampov and visit the Killing Cave and the beautiful hilltop temples (there are some other caves you can explore near the summit, too, if you have spare time). Head down to watch the bats around 5.30pm (although the bat exodus time varies throughout the year, so ask your accommodation who will be able to give you the most up-to-date information).
Dinner – grab a pizza from La Pizza Battambang (you can get a takeaway from there if you’re exhausted from this very long day!).
Day 2 – the chill spots
Morning – take a 9am-12pm cooking class with the super popular Nary Kitchen, where you get to explore the local market and cook up a flurry of traditional Cambodian foods for lunch.
Afternoon – rent a bicycle (or walk) and meander around Battambang’s colonial architecture, check out the *seriously* quirky statues at Damrey Sor Pagoda, take a walk across the river and check out the Sangke Pagoda and an art gallery, like Romcheik 5.
Late afternoon – if you have time left, head north to Wat Ek Phnom and have a wander around the beautiful Buddhist temple, statue and ruins.
Evening – if you are visiting on a Monday, Thursday or Saturday, consider checking out the Cambodian Circus. The shows begin at 7pm, and it opens for food and drinks from 6pm. The performances lasts an hour.
If you are around on a different day, or do not want to see a performance, take a wander down the Sangker River after dark because all the food vendors are out at the night market and the views are super pretty!
Dinner – have a meal at Jaan Bai, either before the circus performance, or after.
RENTING A TUKTUK IN CAMBODIA
We rented our very own tuktuk in Siem Reap for our journeys in Cambodia.
If you’re travelling to Battambang from Siem Reap, consider doing the same!
A tuktuk provides flexibility to explore Siem Reap, the epic Angkor Wat ruins and Battambang independently and at your own pace, which we would absolutely recommend. It’s a fantastic option, especially if you don’t have a motorbike license.
For more information on tuktuk rental in Cambodia, check out our comprehensive guide (and get some money off your booking!).
–
Battambang Itinerary Map
Below is a Google Map with every location we’ve mentioned within this post.
To save the map, select the star by the title.
How to Get to Battambang
Most people will travel to Battambang from Siem Reap, a major town and home of Angkor Wat, which is around three hours by road to the east. The most common forms of travel are via organised tour, bus or private car.
You can also drive a tuktuk, like we did!
Organised tour: these leave Siem Reap and take you to Battambang on a day trip to cover all the main spots and take out any planning complexity for you.
Bus and mini-van: there are a handful of bus companies that run this route, with multiple departures every day, and some even have a first-class options. The best way to book a bus ticket in advance is using 12GoAsia, an English language website which lists all the companies, along with schedules and reviews. A standard bus/mini-van from Siem Reap to Battambang typically costs US$7-10.
Private driver: these can be arranged locally, or organised via Get Your Guide.
Self-drive tuktuk: we loved driving our tuktuk around Cambodia, it was hilarious and also beautiful. If you’re interested in renting one in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, have a look at our tuktuk driving guide. It typically costs around $20 a day and gas is exceptionally affordable.
Train: there’s technically a train that goes from Phnom Penh to Battambang and Poipet (on the Thai border), but it’s so slow, you’d want to do it for experience, rather than efficiency! You can book online through Cambodia Royal Railway, however it might be unreliable. When we last checked, the seat map showed the toilet was booked for the trip!
WHERE TO STAY IN BATTAMBANG
Battambang has a fantastic range of accommodation at very affordable prices. There are places to suit all budgets and tastes, so no matter your requirements or vibe, you’ll find something.
($$+) We stayed in an absolutely stunning boutique hotel in Battambang called Cambana La Rivière, which just smashed all my expectations out of the park. Our room was large, surprisingly bright and modern, with a comfortable bed, reliable hot water and a little outdoor seating area. This was all surrounded by the most exquisite, plant-lined pool (there’s actually two pools, on different levels!).
The breakfast was varied with loads of vegetarian options, plus they have a super amazing value happy hour (even just compared with Siem Reap, it was insanely good value).
Also, the hotel’s location was excellent, around the corner from the river, with restaurants nearby and just a short walk to the centre of Battambang.
We’d highly recommend this place and are planning on staying there again on our next (imminent) visit.
($+) Right next door is the Muni Residence and Spa, which is the other hotel we had shortlisted. It’s a little more affordable and has a decent pool, clean rooms with smart TVs, quality aircon and, most importantly, some of the best reviews I’ve ever seen.
–
Where to Eat
There are a surprising number of cool restaurants in Battambang. From first impressions, you’d not expect to find woodfired pizza, but it’s here, and it’s even pretty decent!
We recommend:
La Pizza Battambang – this restaurant was a surprise, in all the best ways. Set in a beautiful garden along the quiet side of the river, it has proper pizzas with excellent ingredients, and they even have an entire vegan section. It’s so well priced, too. We ate here twice (it was right near our hotel).
Jaan Bai – we had an exceptional meal at this restaurant. Not only does it train and employ local youth, but the food is excellent. We highly recommend the eggplant dumplings and Kampot black pepper tofu, plus the side of morning glory was enormous. The smoothies with re-usable straws were absolutely top notch too, without being too sweet (just like I prefer).
Nary Kitchen – this place in the centre of Battambang does really tasty, affordable local food, with an entire vegetarian section on the menu (I recommend the tofu lok lak), they also do excellent cooking classes you can sign up for.
Kinyei Café – we popped in here briefly for a coffee and cakey-snack (like you do) and it was lovely.
The Fringe – this could be my favourite place in Battambang? I always crave vegetables when I travel (it’s hard to eat healthy on the road), but this just sorted me right out, more than once. We’d absolutely recommend if you’re vegan or vegetarian too, as they even use amazing BBQ tofu as a meat substitute.
The Lonely Tree Café – this beautiful little space might be the prettiest café in Battambang, with lovely food to match. The décor is magic, and the atmosphere is perfect. Order any cake – it’s literally impossible to be disappointed.
Where to next?
Battambang is absolutely a worthy entry on your Cambodia itinerary, I promise!
It’s so different to anywhere else I’ve been in the country and is the kind of place that helps lower your blood pressure a little (apart from driving a motorbike over the bridges at rush hour).
If you’re planning a Cambodia itinerary and would consider renting a tuktuk to get around, have a read of our guide which details all our experiences (driving a tuktuk is hysterical, but also really convenient having your own transport).
If you’re visiting Siem Reap during your trip, consider checking out the life-saving landmine rats (they’re genuinely adorable), or popping into the Cambodian Circus. Both of these are included on our detailed two day Siem Reap itinerary.
If Angkor Wat is the focus of your trip, have a read about the best photography locations – we’ve spent weeks there and love it so much!
We hope you have a fantastic getaway to Cambodia!
Hi, thanks for visiting our blog! If our free content has been of help to you, or you’ve just enjoyed our random ramblings and musings, say thank you by buying us a coffee! It helps keep The Restless Beans blog up and running.
Thank you, Claire + Nick
