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Koh Yao Yai: Why You Should (Maybe) Visit Our Second Favourite Thai Island
Scribbled by Claire ⬩ 08 Apr 2026
Are you wondering whether Koh Yao Yai, often overlooked by first-time visitors to Thailand, is worth some space on your itinerary? This rural paradise, right next to Phuket, is a perfect choice for particular types of traveller. Find out if it’s the best call for your trip!
About a year ago, I spent an utterly glorious break on Koh Yao *Noi*, a small rural island in southern Thailand that sits smack-bang between Phuket and Krabi. I really wasn’t expecting to adore it the way I did. So, upon leaving I immediately (and obsessively) made plans to visit its larger, even quieter sibling just to the south, Koh Yao Yai.
Now, after months of waiting, I recently came back from five highly anticipated days on Koh Yao Yai.
I was so fearful that it wouldn’t live up to its northern neighbour’s perfection – I’m fussy about island vibes and there are very few places which I’d describe as top-tier in Thailand.
However, I shouldn’t have been concerned – it had all the charming, rustic island magic I could have hoped for. The island wasn’t the same as Koh Yao Noi, but shared so much of that similar character that I longed for.
There’s a kind of unexpected sparkle that reminds me of Thailand before the crowds and all the toxic mainstream hype (while simultaneously having modern amenities like aircon and 7-Elevens).
Along with the vibes, it’s got absolutely stellar beaches – even one that’s reminiscent of the Maldives! There are few tourists, empty roads which are ideal for scooters, some decent local food options. For the luxury enthusiasts, some of the best resorts in the region are hidden away in the hills.
I even stayed in a resort for part of my stay (which is unheard of – but I found a crazy offer so went for it). The rest of my time was spent in some excellent budget digs that I can only describe as impeccable.
Now, I’m not here to waste your time or persuade you to go somewhere that doesn’t suit your needs (each Thai island has an individual personality which suit some people more than others).
Instead, I’ve written a kind of guide to help you figure out if you’re the type of person who would love Koh Yao Yai as much as me. I’ve gone straight into what is so great about this island and things you may want to consider before visiting. However, near the bottom, there is also comprehensive information on how to get there, a map, and all the basic logistics you need to know, too.
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If you’re looking for information on its sibling Koh Yao Noi, too, check out my detailed post to find out if it’s the island for you.
IN THIS GUIDE //
Thailand’s Rural Paradise
Why Visit Koh Yao Yai?
– Some Reasons to Visit
So, Is Koh Yao Yai for You?
Alcohol on the island
Let’s Get Real for a Second
Is it Easy to Get Around?
– Shuttles and Taxis
– Scooter Rental
– Gas Stations
– Bicycles
– Arriving at the Pier
What are Koh Yao Yai’s Beaches Like?
Is There a Dress Code?
What is There To Do on the Island?
The Elephant Situation
Best Areas to Stay
– Hints for Resorts/Luxury Stays
– Hints for Budget/Backpacker Stays
– Our Personal Hotel Recs
Restaurants on Koh Yao Yai
Speedboats and Ferries
Island Google Map
A few FAQs
Where to Next?
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Why Visit Koh Yao Yai?
Bluntly, I’d say that Koh Yao Yai is an island for people who find the idea of Phuket and Samui at least mildly abhorrent. It’s for visitors looking for peace, minimal gentrification, no sex tourism, zero heavy traffic, and no giant malls (check out our most overrated places in Thailand if these factors are important to you).
Also, it’s for those that want to see what a Thai island feels like without tourism being its primary income and priority.
Some Reasons to Visit
> Proximity and easy transport to Phuket/Krabi: Koh Yao Yai is only 30-45 minutes from the major piers in the area and easily connected to the international airports.
> Very low tourist numbers: I’ve read varying reports, but out of the 35-40 million people visiting Thailand every year, only around 100,000 visit this island. This means there are far more local/resident businesses and less elephant pant/tour shops (if you know, you know).
> Empty roads: the population of Koh Yao Yai is somewhere around 8000 people (sources are unreliable), spread out over an area of 95 square kilometres. Many of the residents are fishermen and spend much of their time at sea, meaning it’s pretty quiet on the roads.
> Flexible transport: it’s one of the only places I’ve seen where scooters with side cars to rent are reasonably prevalent, which is perfect if you have people in your group who are unable to ride.
> Great range of accommodation options: there are incredible hillside and beachfront resorts, alongside affordable cute homestay options.
> Mostly empty beaches: there is none of that Kata, Karon, Patong wall-to-wall beach umbrellas nonsense (if you’ve never been to these places, go to Google Satellite, type ‘Kata Beach’, for example, and note the umbrellas – you’ll lose count fast!).
> Not a party vibe: alcohol, weed and beach parties are really not a big thing on Koh Yao Yai.
> Affordable compared to nearby Phuket/Ao Nang: nothing comes close to the crazy prices of Ao Nang and Phuket in the high season! Some of the high-end resorts are comparably priced, but the budget and mid-range options offer exceptional value.
FIRST TIME VISITOR TO THAILAND?
If this is your first ever trip to Thailand, have a look at our monster-guide to visiting this beautiful country, which includes tips on money, food, transport, logistics, culture and more.
Also, if you’re landing in Bangkok, consider having a look at our overly ambitious one-day Bangkok itinerary (we live here, so we know it well).
Or check out our massive Thai island rundown – to help you choose your ideal one!
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RELATED POST | A SOUTHERN THAILAND ITINERARY
So, Is Koh Yao Yai For You?
The simple answer is that this island is definitely not for everyone.
It’s too quiet, lacking in the kind of stimulation some people want or need for their holidays, and doesn’t have the wow-ish, famous Instagram moments that have made other areas unbearably popular (like Railay Bay, for example). However, that’s great for people like me, who want to spend time on an island without it feeling chaotic and loud!
So, to sum up succinctly, come to Koh Yao Yai if you:
⬩can zip around on a scooter (or are happy paying for taxis);
⬩are keen to see a bit of rural southern Thailand;
⬩don’t need to prioritise alcoholic bevvies on this part of your trip;
⬩love exploring and don’t require loads of pre-planned activities;
⬩love quiet, undeveloped beaches;
⬩don’t need Michelin-starred or international food;
⬩don’t really care about Instagram shots;
⬩love a rustic beach bar;
⬩don’t fancy dwelling in a sea of beach umbrellas;
⬩love yourself an early night!
Below, we’ve elaborated on the alcohol situation, specific accommodation options, the on-island transport choices, what there is to do (and not to do). We also have info on how to dress, a map, a few typical questions and how to sort your ferry.
The Alcohol Situation on Koh Yao Yai
Koh Yao Yai is a majority Muslim island – apparently up to 98 percent of the population are practicing, so you won’t find much in the way of alcohol here (or pork products). You will finds loads of tiny colourful mosques, though!
7-Elevens on the island don’t sell alcohol but there are a few shops that do, so don’t worry if you want a quiet beer (it’s sold at Nine Square 2 and Family Shop). The larger resorts all sell alcohol as usual as do many restaurants, too. It’s not difficult to find, but it’s just not prevalent or the main form of entertainment like in Samui and Phuket, for example.
There aren’t questionable buckets, fire shows on the beach, or clubs. This island is not the vibe for that.
Alcohol Prices
Alcohol prices on Koh Yao Yai are a little higher, a standard Chang or Singha beer in a shop costs around 70-75 baht. Surprisingly decent wine and spirits were available too, such as a 19 Crimes Malbec for 790 baht and a 700ml bottle of basic gin or vodka for about 520 baht.
Resort drink prices seem pretty standard and are much like any other area (that we’ve seen). They have happy hours and all the usual options, so if you like an afternoon cocktail or wine with dinner, that’s not a problem.
Let’s Get Real For a Second
Thailand is touristy. It’s one of the most visited countries on the planet at the moment. Most tourists congregate in a few places across this giant country, plus we all know it attracts certain kinds of visitors.
You know: the gross sex tourists, ones only looking to party, those who race motorbikes down heavily trafficked streets full of kids, and some who are just desperate to be as cheap as possible.
I’ve seen people walk into a Muslim-majority 7-Eleven in just lacey underwear and drunk tourists at 4am on a Wednesday that don’t care how loud they are in a residential area. I’ve even seen an untrained scooter rider run a local delivery driver off the road, damaging their bike in the process. Then there are men that get into physical fights with bar girls – I’ve watched a man hit a woman over the head with a chair.
Now before you shout at me, it’s obviously not all tourists, by any stretch, but there are a decent number that arrive with only certain things in mind. I live here – I see it all the time.
The beauty of Koh Yao Yai (and Koh Yao Noi) is that it does not attract this kind of visitor. It’s the lack of alcohol, a culture that prefers you dress modestly away from the beach, no breakfast bacon, quiet nights, and the lack of emphasis on tourism. It’s a blessing.
If you’re visiting Thailand for the first time, you might end up staying in a few places that attract the worst kind of tourist. Come to Koh Yao Yai and it’s unlikely you’ll see anything like this. It’s a wonderful antithesis to Thailand’s overtourism problem.
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Is it Easy to Get Around the Island?
Yes, it’s easy to get around the island, although Koh Yao Yai is ideal for people who are either fine getting around on a scooter or want to spend a lot of time in their resort. Below are a few of your options for island transport:
Shuttles and Taxis
Most resorts have their own shuttles. We stayed at the magnificent Koh Yao Yai Village Resort and they had a free shuttle that went several times a day to Laem Haad Beach, for example. Some resorts also run shuttles to-and-from the various piers.
Private aircon taxis are always available on request (there’s no ride share app like Grab here, though). We were told it was an average of about 400 baht per taxi to the various piers from our particular resort, which was in the central northern area of the island.
If you want to know specific costs for any part of your journey, check with your accommodation.
Scooter Rental
The going rate for a 125cc Click or Scoopy scooter on Koh Yao Yai is around 250 baht per day. Rental places are everywhere and you won’t struggle to find one.
We chose to rent from Koh Yao Modern Inn, which was also the place we were staying. We didn’t have to show a license or leave a deposit. The bike was actually one of the better ones we had rented throughout our previous month in southern Thailand. They were so lovely and I’d happy rent from them again, even if we weren’t staying there. We even got a free lift from them back to our resort after returning the bike!
There are scooters with sidecars, too. These cost 600 baht per day and we saw them at quite a few of the more popular areas and around some piers. There were loads for rent at Loh Pared Beach.
Gas Stations
There is one major Bangchak gas station on Koh Yao Yai and it’s smack bang in the middle the island. There are also like a billion makeshift gas stops where people will fill you up out of their barrels or bottles, and coin operated vending machines, too. You cannot go far without finding petrol.
The cheapest option is the main station, although sometimes it’s not super conveniently located and worth filling up with a more expensive option to save time. The roadside spots all charged 40 baht per litre (although Thailand is currently going through a bit of a fuel scarcity thing right now so it’s possible that might change. If cost fluctuations are a concern, check with your accommodation in advance for prices.).
Bicycles
We saw a few people on bicycles, but it’s worth noting that this island is huge. It’s around 25 kilometres from Laem Haad Beach to the fishing village in the furthest south.
However, the roads are quite flat compared to some other islands (it’s got nothing on Koh Tao!), so might be suitable to explore the island by bike if you’re a cycling enthusiast.
A bicycle is obviously a great option for getting around your local area, though.
Arriving at the Pier
There are quite a few piers on Koh Yao Yai. At any of those that service tourist speedboats, there will be songthaews (shared pick-ups) waiting to take you where you need to go. The prices vary, obviously, depending on how far you need to go, so it’s best to check with your accommodation.
Many of the bigger resorts will send a pre-arranged shuttle for your arrival, so check with them in advance.
We walked the 20-or-so minutes to our hotel from Chong Lard Pier, which was a nice wander through the little village.
What are Koh Yao Yai’s Beaches Like?
Koh Yao Yai’s beaches are where this island really gleams, in my opinion.
When we consider the crowds-to-beach-quality ratio of all the Thai islands we’ve visited, this one comes out near the top. Having said that, it’s not a big diving and swimming kind of place (you can and people do, but it isn’t the best spot in Thailand).
There are no beaches carpeted in umbrellas and beach chairs. At most, you’ll find some seats under a tree on the sand next to a small bar selling noodles and smoothies.
Some of the island’s beaches are totally remote, with castaway vibes and literally just sand, rocks and trees. Sometimes you might find a bunch of cows with their farmer. We found a small building that I think might be an abandoned school, or something. There are miles of empty beach with no longtails, no bars, no hotels, and no infrastructure of any sort.
Below are a few of the main beaches (all of our experiences were in the middle of the February high season).
Best Beach: Laem Haad
The standout spot in Koh Yao Yai is the sand bar at Laem Haad Beach. It’s magic and the soft white sand and shallow turquoise waters genuinely reminded me of the Maldives. There are usually a few people floating about, but it never hits that gross peak beach capacity like in other places. It’s a really special place.
Access is really easy, with loads of scooter parking space. There’s also a couple of little bars selling rotis, soft drinks and beers, plus some beach chairs. It’s quite exposed here, so if you need some shade you can sit inland under the palm trees. Watch out for falling coconuts!
If you want to get away from the few people who might be around, walk the opposite direction from the sand bar, staying on the left side, and you’ll be able to wander for literally miles with no interruptions.
Ao Muong Beach
This is another of our favourite beaches. It’s reached via a sandy track in the far south of Koh Yao Yai, with just a small beach bar at the end and literally nothing else. The beach is sandy, but not as perfect as others on the island, with some pebbles at the shoreline, and the water was aqua-blue clear every time we visited. The main draw here is the lovely bar and almost zero people.
The rustic little Beach Snack and Restaurant (serves alcohol) has typical, decent quality Thai food for around 80-150 baht and served the best mango smoothie I found on the island. Drinks are a bit pricey (120 baht for a smoothie), but it’s so remote that I didn’t mind, at all. There are scattered chairs under trees to lounge on, and a long strip of sand that is completely unpopulated.
Lo Chak Beach
This beach is absolutely lovely, with soft white sand, loads of trees for shade, and a few different sections you can visit.
The main section has the pier with the wide sandy beach either side of it. We didn’t spend that much time here, though, because it also has the most number of people! There are a few places to grab drinks, but we didn’t hang around to check them out. Instead, we drove up and around to the north of the beach via the small village, ended at 7.935447, 98.573502. Here, the beach was empty, immaculate and there’s also an interesting cemetery where all the graves are wrapped in fabrics (be respectful and don’t wander through it).
Also, further south, there’s a really cool bit where all the fishermen moor their longtail boats on the beach (go around the back of the abandoned OYO resort (also worth a sneaky explore if you’re into that sort of thing). This spot has the clearest waters we saw on the island, plus loads of cool rocks to explore and crabs. Head down the sandy tracks to 7.930999, 98.574718 and 7.929285, 98.576784 for some fun.
Loh Pared Beach
This beach felt like the most touristy spot on Koh Yao Yai, by a fair margin.
However, that’s not saying much since this island, even at capacity during high season, felt low-key. If you’re after a tiny bit of liveliness, I’d recommend getting a hotel in this area because there are roti stands (kind of expensive at 70+ baht), shops, groceries, several coffee shops (Demeter Coffee is really, really good and has aircon), a pharmacy, tour agencies, all within a one-minute walk.
There are a whole range of restaurants, too, so if you want somewhere different to eat each night without the need drive, this is your spot. Together Restaurant did us some decent veggies and morning glory when we visited (although on the pricier end).
The beach is lovely, with shady trees, a few chairs, loads of bean bags and soft sand. There are a few places to eat on the oceanfront, like Mama’s Seafood (does not serve alcohol) where we stopped for a smoothie (was pretty affordable) and Gypsy’s Bar (serves alcohol) which has that proper rustic wooden DIY Thai beach bar atmosphere (if you know, you know), with great reggae chill vibes.
Son Bay Beach
Son Bay is cool. It has this wild vibe, with just a few simple restaurants along the shoreline and a bunch of tables and chairs in the shade of the trees.
We didn’t eat at Klong Son Beach Thai Food, but did get a lovely smoothie (this is my go-to when I’m just way too hot from wearing a motorbike helmet – the sweltering temperatures kill my appetite!). You can organise tours from here, too. This beach is also right next to the mangrove kayaking tours (see below) so, if you’re into that, try and combine a visit to both!
The beach is wide and has some of the most crazy tides I’ve ever seen. It’s wild, literally.
We didn’t spend that much time here because the weather just wasn’t playing ball with us, so instead we decided to drive the offroad route to the east of the island. This was so much fun and led us on a bit of a hilarious adventure (the best kind) to find Aeden Beach.
Aeden Beach is a super-remote spot along the north western coast of the island. It’s honestly a bit rogue to reach on a scooter, but the adventure is part of the fun and it’s highly unlikely you’ll see anyone else out there!
Ao Sai Beach
Ao Sai Beach is hidden away down a sketchy dirt track right in the farthest south of Koh Yao Yai.
Honestly, I wasn’t enamoured with this beach as much as the others on this list, but only because it was a bit choppy and windy, plus the sun was playing peekaboo, a lot. I think on a different week and with me in a different mood, it might be a super remote, vibey little spot, but I just didn’t feel it.
Also, there was a monkey that properly chased and tried to attack me on the scooter and, if you’ve not picked it up by now, I’m not a fan of the rabid, unpredictable little nightmares (I like them from a distance).
However, the one bar down there, called Paradise Beach Bar, has got that rough-n-ready DIY feel that’s perfect for a Thai beach. I cannot imagine anywhere this remote would ever get busy, so definitely check it out and make up your own mind!
All my photos are grey and miserable, but that’s not the fault of the beach. So, I’ve not included anything that might put you off visiting!
It’s worth checking out the nearby fishing village if you’re in the area, too.
Going ‘Off-Piste’
The whole of Koh Yao Yai is an almost empty rural playground (respectfully) just waiting to be explored. For example, we found an untouched bit of coast (literally zero footprints) with thousands of seashells, right in the far southwestern part of the island, a little below Ao Muong Beach. It’s worth getting out and just taking a polite look around.
There’s also the outstanding beach by Hin Kong Pier, right outside our resort, with the most extreme tides! As you can see below, it’s pretty much rock free, so when the tide is in (and it comes right in!), it’s a perfect swimming option with lovely aqua blue waters. When the tide is out, it’s a great choice for a wander. During our days there, it was a bit overcast, but on a sunny day it would be spectacular.
Have a look at Koh Yao Yai Village Resort if you’re interested.
Is There a Dress Code on Koh Yao Yai?
Koh Yao Yai is a Muslim island, where almost every local resident dresses in a conservative manner.
There are no strict dress codes for the beaches – wear whatever you usually would – but outside of that, it’s respectful to not fly about on your scooter wearing a bikini, or visit local restaurants or shops dressed in revealing outfits.
The same kind of thing goes for men, too: put a top on when you’re not on the beach. (To be fair, this goes for literally anywhere in Thailand – always dress appropriately outside of the beach).
I saw a tourist in Koh Yao Yai in the skimpiest bikini wandering past a mosque, nowhere near a beach, and it felt cringe and gross. Don’t be her.
We need to ensure that the local people don’t grow to resent tourists, like they have in other places around Thailand.
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What Else to Do Around Koh Yao Yai
Okay, so Koh Yao Yai isn’t exactly teeming with the traditional touristy things to do, outside of hanging out at the beaches. There are no temples, no waterparks, and no gross animal exhibits.
I mean, you can do most of the same organised tours that leave from nearby Phuket or Ao Nang (like island hopping), but really this island is more suited to people that want to create their own unique adventure (or lack of, depending on the purpose of your trip!).
However, there’s easily enough quirky activities to fill up four or five days on this island, while leaving enough time to hang out at the by the sea without getting bored.
On our trip, we spent most of out time beach hopping, riding the scooter down roads we probably shouldn’t have, and generally just chilling out under trees with mango smoothies.
For us, after many months in the Thai islands, there was no reason to take the boat tours or cooking classes in Koh Yao Yai, because we’d done them elsewhere (and we’re just not rich enough to do it all multiple times!). However, they’re well worth doing if you’ve never been to Thailand before.
Sunsets and Sunrises
Koh Yao Yai is surrounded by other islands and land formations on all sides, so the views from any direction are always magnificent.
Our favourite spot for sunset and sunrise (sunrise is better) on Koh Yao Yai is Laem Haad Beach. This is spectacular at all times of day, but we’d highly recommend getting up here for sunrise at least once. Interestingly, despite its beauty (and as with almost everywhere on this island), there are hardly any people to share this spot with, so it’s super romantic, tranquil, and pretty.
Other great spots for sunrise are from any of the resorts on the northeastern coast (like the Koh Yao Yai Village Resort). They all face sort of east-ish, so sunrise is actual magic from the hills.
The western coast is a smarter option for sunset if you want to see the sun hit the horizon, so head for Lo Chak or Lo Pared Beach. Gypsy’s Bar on Loh Pared is a fantastic option.
One of the cool things about the shallow waters around these islands is that the tides go out for what seems like miles. This means you can get some epic reflections on the sand if your timing is right!
Go a Bit Rogue on a Scooter
This is a wee bit vague, but Koh Yao Yai has some remote tracks and, in the dry season (December to March), they can be absolutely hilarious to take on if you’re comfortable on a scooter. They’ll lead to secret beaches, beautiful views, empty jungle and, sometimes, buffalo!
If there’s any sign of rain, I’d avoid them all together, because they’re really not designed for scooters, especially if you’re travelling with a pillion passenger.
We had such fun riding down to Aeden Beach, for example, and didn’t see a single other person along the way.
Take a Cooking Class
As I mentioned above, we didn’t take a cooking class on Koh Yao Yai, but it would be a great option for a half day activity if you’ve not done one before.
One of the most popular and best rated (5 star) options is the Koh Yao Thai Cooking Class, which offers pick up and drop off at your accommodation all included in the price. Contact them via Whatsapp on (+66)942914666 to arrange a booking.
Go on an Island Hopping Tour
If you want to do an island hopping tour, these are easily arranged from Koh Yao Yai.
However, if you’re visiting Ao Nang or Phuket on your trip as well, we’d recommend booking one of the boat tours from there instead. You’ll have a million options if you want to hit up, like seven islands in one go. It’ll likely be a more peaceful experience going from Koh Yao Yai, though, so it depends on what you want to do!
I’ve never been enamoured by the typical 4-7 island tours that go from places like Ao Nang (but I’m in the minority here, I think).
There are also options to explore Phang Nga National Park by boat, including the super famous ‘James Bond Island’ (this would be my preference because that national park has insane scenery).
Mosey on Through Some the Mangroves
There are mangroves on Koh Yao Yai’s north and western coast, which are popular for kayaking around.
Now, I’m irrationally terrified of kayaking through mangroves due to the less-than-likely possibility of monkeys jumping on me, but most normal people aren’t, so check it out if it’s your cup of tea.
If you want to arrange this yourself, just Whatsapp Yamee Village Kayaking Kohyaoyai (who have magnificent ratings) on (+66)818248721. Alternatively you can book through Get Your Guide online if you prefer to reserve in advance.
Learn the Art of Batik
I’ve done Batik classes previously in Malaysia and they were sooo much fun!
So, if you’re feeling artsy and want to do something totally different and family friendly in Koh Yao Yai, check out the impeccably rated Batik de Kohyao. It’s one of very few Batik places in the entire of Thailand and is a great way to take home an entirely unique, handmade souvenir.
All this, with a view of the ocean!
Just rock up, or Whatsapp them on (+66)907097369.
(Politely) Lurk Around a Fishing Village
There are a few fishing villages on Koh Yao Yai.
You can pop in and take a look around if you’re interested in seeing what industry and life on a Thai island looks like without loads of tourism. Interestingly, there is a famously touristy stop on some of the famous boat trips in the area that show ‘authentic fishing village life’, but the village still sells elephant pants, so I’d always be a little skeptical. Koh Yao Yai isn’t like that.
If you do have a look around, please dress appropriately and remember that it’s not a tourist area. People have to work and we as visitors mostly just get in the way. Don’t take photos of people or their homes, and don’t treat anything like an attraction.
We think the best village to visit is the one at the pier near Ao Sai Beach, in the southernmost point on the east. You can twin it with a trip to Paradise Beach Bar (although the road is mildly rough at the end). There was also a place to eat in the village, just before the mosque, which was super busy with residents, but doesn’t appear on Google Maps. If you check it out, please please dress and behave respectfully.
Hang out at some Cafes
This is another vague one, but there are a few quite vibey cafes popping up around Koh Yao Yai, especially in the northeastern area of the island.
We visited a bunch and all were great (not really anything so stand out that I’d absolutely insist you visit, but all are good at what they offered) and most serve some decent baked goods or desserts.
Consider visiting:
Demeter Coffee – a smart, airconned cafe that sells the best drinks on the island (in my opinion). They also sell alcohol (craft beer!) and weed/edibles, but we only picked up some Thai tea. They also have the full range of plant-based substitutes for your coffee – so give this place a whirl if that’s what you’re looking for!
Chada – modern, with smashing views of the ocean and easy to access, located on the main road out of Chong Lard Pier. We had excellent desserts and smoothies, but be aware that the service was super slow for us – just like all the reviews say. It’s a good stop if you want a break, but not if you’re in a rush.
Palm Cafe – this had some excellent coffee when we really needed a rest and is perfect if you’re here for the stoner vibes (although you don’t need to be to enjoy the cafe). They also sell beer to drink-in and takeaway.
Laleuca Cafe – one of the nicer options on the island (outside of resorts) and conveniently located nearby Laem Haad Beach. We popped in on an absolutely boiling hot afternoon for emergency smoothies and ended up eating there because they wrote veggie/vegan available and I’m a sucker for anyone who has the time to help people with dietary restrictions! It’s actually a small guesthouse/hotel, too, so you can use the pool there for a fee. They’re also one of only a few places that had decent-ish craft beer. Would highly recommend.
Swiss Coffee Shop – we stopped here a few times when in the southern part of the island for a break and for some excellent smoothies, scrambled eggs, and coffee. The banana bread is the main character though – at minimum, pop in and grab a slice!
Day Trip to Koh Yao Noi!
This is my all time favourite island and it’s just a quick longtail boat ride away from the northern pier of Chong Lard.
If you want to visit, it’s usually 100 baht to cross (each way) and takes just a few minutes. You can spend the day exploring this incredible island (although we’d recommend you stay overnight!).
The Elephant Situation on Koh Yao Yai
Koh Yao Yai has one elephant ‘sanctuary’, located in the middle of the island.
We do not recommend a visit to this particular one, because it doesn’t meet the World Animal Protection’s definition of an ethical sanctuary.
This particular elephant sanctuary was actually the location of a quite brutal fatality in 2025 of a Spanish tourist, apparently because an elephant ‘was stressed’.
The feeding, bathing and touching of elephants is quite simply unnecessary in 2026. It’s just commodifying elephants for the sake of a photo. There are other, far more appropriate places if you want to see and learn about elephants in Thailand (including entirely wild ones, like in Khao Yai National Park!).
Have a look at World Animal Protection, who have written about more responsible sanctuary options. Consider Following Giants, which is the closest to Koh Yao Yai, on Krabi, north of Ao Nang, and is highly reputable.
What are the Best Areas to Stay?
Koh Yao Yai is actually pretty big, so where you stay will likely dictate your trip (a little bit). There are some great value options to be had, compared with other more popular islands and beaches in the area.
We stayed in a local guesthouse type place and a resort, so have split our comments into budget and luxury options because, usually, they have entirely different requirements! We booked around four months ahead.
Hints for Resorts and Luxury Stays
⬩The resorts on Koh Yao Yai are sort of scattered about across various separate parts of the island. There’s no ‘one best place’, so we’d recommend choosing your ideal hotel over a specific area, if that makes sense. It’s not like you’re going to be close to much nightlife anyway!
⬩Lo Pared Beach has a collection of resorts all in one place and felt the liveliest and touristy of all the areas (to me). There are a few restaurants, beach bars, a roti stand, shops and places to rent a scooter. When we were checking it all out, Santhiya Koh Yao Yai Resort and Spa was by far the nicest place in that area and even has a private dock.
⬩Most other luxury accommodations on Koh Yao Yai are nearer the north, along the eastern coast. The beaches here are long, wild, and exquisite with magnificent views from the hill-top resorts (it’s my favourite area and where I’d choose my resort, without question).
⬩The resorts on Koh Yao Yai are mostly very spread out and you won’t be spending time looking at other hotels. They are often very peaceful, isolated kind of places and perfect for honeymoons or relaxing (far more so than in Phuket or Ao Nang).
Hints for Budget and Backpacker Stays
If you’re more of a budget backpacker, we’d recommend staying around the Chong Lard area. There are cute local guesthouses and a few hostels which are perfect for accommodation on a shoestring. We stayed in this area at the Koh Yao Modern Inn and really loved it.
Chong Lard is near to the pier that goes to Koh Yao Noi, a 7-Eleven, loads of scooter rentals, some fruit stalls, a roti stand, and a whole bunch of affordable restaurants in the area. It’s also the nearest spot to Laem Haad beach, which I think is the most photogenic and unique spot on the island.
Having said that, there are loads of homestays and guesthouses all over the island and if you have a scooter, it doesn’t matter where you are. So, if you want to stay further south to be near a different pier, or to be around lively Loh Pared, there are so many well rated places. Check out Koh Yao Unnrak Resort, which has lovely new pale-yellow bungalows, or Sea Escape Koy Yao Yai, with its stylish rooms for a great price by the beach.
There are loads of options for quality private rooms with bathroom for under 800-1600 baht in high season – this island is impeccable for this kind of budget.
All the decent stays do all book out, though, so be aware.
Our Personal Hotel Recommendations
We stayed in two places on Koh Yao Yai: first at a lovely, budget friendly bungalow and then an incredible resort, and we’d highly recommend both depending on what you’re looking for.
The hotels were nearer the northeast of the island so we could be local to Laem Haad Beach and the piers we needed to access for our speedboats/ferries.
Budget-Friendly: Koh Yao Modern Inn
The Koh Yao Modern Inn offered some of the best value for money I’ve ever encountered in southern Thailand.
This property has nine bungalows, in a neat, manicured garden a short ride from the northern Chong Lard Pier and Laem Haad Beach. The immaculate rooms looked brand new, with all the essentials like reliable hot water, great aircon, Netflix, an outdoor terrace, and comfy bed. The strong WiFi worked consistently and we didn’t have any power cuts, even during a mega-storm.
The contemporary, bright rooms have loads of windows (with curtains that actually cover them!) and are so well designed within the garden that it felt really private, The grounds seemed so well-cared for and thought out (it’s the small things like providing sink and hand soap by the little palapas in the garden).
There are laundry machines in the reception area, they rent out decent scooters, and you can even walk to one of the few 7-Elevens on the island. It’s a genuinely perfect base for exploring Koh Yao Yai. The owners were really sweet, too.
Koh Yao Modern Inn is really worth more than the relatively low price-tag, in my opinion. Just check the reviews, they all agree with me!
This hotel sells out often in the high season, so we’d recommend getting your reservation in quickly if it interests you.
Upper Budget/Luxury: Koh Yao Yai Village Resort
Our second stay on the island was in the Koh Yao Yai Village Beach Resort, which was fantastic value for money considering it was peak season.
The hotel consists of beautiful individual villas dotted throughout the dense, chirpy jungle, adjacent to the beach. Honestly, I had no idea what to expect from this stay, but loved every second of it (turns out I’m a secret slut for luxury).
The villas are massive, with possibly the biggest bathroom I’ve ever had and a giant outdoor shower. The bed had a high-quality Western mattress (my back hates Thai beds and I suffer daily for it). There is also a private, covered outdoor section with sunbeds, a comfy netted seating area perfect for reading (although we had zero problems with mosquitos) and a small outdoor kitchen-type area.
I’d describe it as jungle-rustic, but it’s secretly just pure luxury without the rustic! Truthfully, I was kind of worried about jungly bugs and things like that, but didn’t have a single issue, even in the outside area or shower.
The forest paths that snake around the the resort reminded me a lot of how lush Costa Rica is, and I loved how the cicadas went crazy the minute the sun hit the horizon. On that topic, the views from the pool and restaurants are smashing for sunrise and sunset.
The included breakfast overlooking the ocean and infinity pool is top notch and the happy hour cocktails are the best I’ve had in ages. We never ate dinner here, so can’t comment on the food, but the setting of the restaurants is exquisite. There are a few restaurants within walking distance on the main road if you don’t want to eat in the several places on site (we chatted with a group of people at breakfast who had eaten at Chill Chill @ Pai, just up the road, and were raving about the Massaman curry).
The enormous cliff-side curved infinity pool was exceptional, too, and during the daytime even in high season was mostly empty. We’ve added pictures of it a little further up the page.
Mostly, though, it was quiet and peaceful and we hadn’t stayed anywhere quite like it in a while. It remains on my mind more than most places I’ve stayed in the last four months I’ve been traversing Thailand.
Restaurants on Koh Yao Yai
So, I’m going to be brutally honest and say that nothing blew us away on Koh Yao Yai, restaurant-wise. We didn’t have any bad meals, but we ate pretty simple food so there was little to rave about.
We’re vegetarians and Thai food can be a little monotonous because of that. (I live here and love Thai food. However, I can only eat so much fried morning glory, veggie curries, white rice, and omelettes before my body screams ‘diabetes and protein’ really loud at me and I just desperately need Mexican, Lebanese or Italian food!).
We’ve mentioned quite a few spots throughout this post already, including the cafes, so I’ll just provide a quick summary below.
Where We Ate
Mantra Restaurant – typical Thai menu, but with a dedicated vegetarian page with loads of tofu options (such a rarity!). We ate here twice since it was near our accommodation.
Together Restaurant – we had a decent veggie stir fry situation here, which was as good as any we’ve had around the islands.
Mama Burger and Thai Food – don’t judge me, but this place did fantastic chips, and I wasn’t ready for it.
Baan Tapkad Restaurant – another spot that does a decent number of vegetarian Thai options, which I’m always grateful for. I didn’t try the burgers but people rave about them, so head here if you’re in need of something different.
We also obviously had banging inclusive breakfasts at our resort, which was kinda the highlight, if I’m honest!
Speedboats to Koh Yao Yai
It’s very easy to get to Koh Yao Yai from any of the main island hubs on the Andaman Coast side of Thailand (so almost anywhere on the west).
Speedboats run from all the main locations: Phuket, Ao Nang, Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi, and more. Below are some rough details. Check 12GoAsia to confirm for your dates.
|
Location |
Ticket Price |
Journey Length |
Journeys Per Day |
Times |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Phuket (Bang Rong) |
390 baht |
30-40 minutes |
15 |
8.30am – 5pm |
|
Phuket (Laem Hin) |
400 baht |
40 minutes |
2 |
1pm, 2pm |
|
Ao Nang (Nopparat Thara) |
640 baht |
40-80 minutes |
7 |
10am – 3pm |
|
Koh Phi Phi (Tonsai) |
1200 baht |
75-120 minutes |
10 |
9.45am – 3pm |
|
Koh Lanta (Saladan) |
1050 baht |
90-140 minutes |
13 |
7.40am – 2.30pm |
How to Book
In high season, we book all our Andaman (west) Coast ferries and speedboats in advance through 12GoAsia (a trustworthy transport aggregator), because the boats occasionally sell out. We have actually had this happen (they never used to a few years ago, but more recently the insane numbers of tourists have actually caused a shortage), and every time we take a boat in high season nowadays it’s literally rammed full.
Plus, there’s nothing worse than getting stuck somewhere you don’t want to be.
12GoAsia are sometimes quite useful for booking combo trips, too. For example, we recently booked a ferry – bus combo from Koh Phangan to Ao Nang, and a speedboat – shared van combo from Koh Yao Yai to Phuket Airport. We did the maths, and not only was it cheaper than doing it independently, it also meant there were no issues with ticket availability. Both trips were on time and exactly as anticipated.
Another positive with 12GoAsia is you can read the reviews before booking, so you don’t use a dodgy company. Also, I used to hate arriving at the pier to buy my ticket only to realise the boat wasn’t leaving for three hours!
Outside of the busy season, it’s possible to organise a transfer with your hotel, with a tour agency, or even directly at the pier. Definitely check reviews in advance, though.
From Koh Yao Noi
If you are arriving from Koh Yao Noi, it’s really easy, just head to Manoh Pier and take a longtail across for 100 baht each way. That’s it! You’ll be directed to the correct area.
I don’t know how much it would cost to take a scooter with you (which you can do) but I’d assume at least double.
Google Map of Koh Yao Yai
Below is a Google Map with markers for everything mentioned throughout this post.
To save this map, select the star next to the title.
A Few Frequently Asked Questions
Does Koh Yao Yai have ATMs?
Yes, there are a number of ATMs from various banks on Koh Yao Yai, including the ubiquitous yellow Krungsri ones outside both 7-Elevens. This island generally requires a bit more cash than other areas in Thailand (think: local food, scooter and kayak rental, roadside petrol, any purchases under 200 baht in 7-eleven).
How many days do I need on Koh Yao Yai?
We’d recommend three to four days on Koh Yao Yai. This allows enough time to have a proper explore, check out all the beaches, and read a book.
When is the best time to visit Koh Yao Yai?
The best time to visit Koh Yao Yai is between November and March as it is the cooler, drier season. Outside of this season, it can be hotter and wetter, plus the ferries run a little less often and some of the businesses are closed. Having said that, the prices are rock bottom, so consider going then because it doesn’t rain all day, every day!
How much does scooter rental cost on Koh Yao Yai?
The going rate is 250 baht per day for a 125cc scooter.
Should I bring cash or card to Koh Yao Yai?
Bring both. Smaller establishments don’t accept credit or debit cards, while most hotels, more expensive restaurants and the 7-Eleven do. Always have cash as a backup just in case the card machine isn’t working, though.
Does the Grab App work in Koh Yao Yai?
No, the Grab taxi app does not work in Koh Yao Yai, but hotels can call for drivers if you need one.
Where to Next?
Whether you’ve decided that Koh Yao Yai is for you, or not, we’re glad you considered it! Considering its crazy convenient position between two of southern Thailand’s tourism giants, the island is weirdly underrated and unknown.
I wrote this about Koh Yao Noi, too, but please only come to visit this island if it’s the kind of place that suits your travel style. It’s not a clubland rager, motorbike racing kind of place and definitely not in the island’s interest to look like Koh Phi Phi in a few years.
Koh Yao Yai is a small, peaceful haven in an otherwise overtourism-doomed region.
If you’re still trying to decide on your ideal Thai islands, check out our island rundown which discusses 21 beach destinations in Thailand and who they are ideally suited to.
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