· MIDDLE EAST · SAUDI ARABIA ·
Rijal Almaa – Discovering Saudi Arabia’s Ancient Gingerbread Village
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 17 June 2025
Are you planning a trip to Saudi Arabia? If so, then Rijal Almaa, southern Saudi’s picture-perfect gingerbread village is a must-see. Read on for everything you need to know for your visit, including how to get there, costs, a little history, why the village is special, and more.
Tucked away in the misty mountains of ‘Asir, in southern Saudi Arabia, is the quaint gingerbread-style village of Rijal Almaa. This 10th century, architecturally distinct settlement was an important natural corridor route between Yemen and the eastern Mediterranean. Recently renovated, it is now home to one of Saudi Arabia’s oldest museums, established in 1985.
We visited the village after seeing a few photos of it in a magazine on a plane – the 60 towering multistorey buildings, stacked on the slope of the surrounding mountain, looked breathtaking. Trademark colourful windows, dotted at regular intervals on the contrasting dark and light brickwork, were unlike anything we’d ever seen before.
So, off we went into the mountains!
The village is hidden away in quite an obscure corner of Saudi Arabia, one that few foreigners ever visit, so we thought we’d write about why we think this destination should be on every Saudi itinerary!
IN THIS GUIDE //
Exploring a Gingerbread Village
WHERE IS RIJAL ALMAA?
GETTING TO RIJAL ALMAA
BEST TIME TO VISIT RIJAL ALMAA
WHAT TO EXPECT DURING YOUR VISIT
– ENTRY FEES
– THE RIJAL ALMAA MUSEUM
BEST PLACE TO STAY
NEARBY RIJAL ALMAA
RIJAL ALMAA TRAVEL TIPS
HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE OF RIJAL ALMAA
– RIJAL ALMAA IN WAR
– RIJAL ALMAA IN PEACE AND PILGRIMAGE
– GINGERBREAD HOUSE ARCHITECTURE
THE CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE OF COLOUR
FINAL THOUGHTS
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Where is Rijal Almaa Heritage Village?
The Rijal Almaa Heritage site is positioned in the bend of a narrow gorge in the village proper of Rijal Almaa. This ancient village is the capital of the Rijal Almaa Governorate and is situated 49 kilometres west of the capital of southern Saudi Arabia’s ‘Asir region, Abha.
Flights | Abha, home to the nearest international airport, connects domestically to major cities in Saudi Arabia. These include Jeddah, Dammam, Riyadh and Tabuk, and also internationally to the U.A.E. and Egypt.
How to get to Rijal Almaa?
There is no public transport to Rijal Almaa from Abha, the nearest city, so the best option is to rent a car, or book a tour/driver. The journey is around 1-2 hours by road, depending on the route you choose.
Hitchhiking | this is a safe and easy way to get around Saudi Arabia, however we do not have experience of hitchhiking on the winding, sinuous mountain roads surrounding Abha (a lot of them were very quiet, but I get the feeling somebody would stop for you!). I feel confident that getting to-and-from the area around Rijal Almaa via hitchhiking would be possible, though.
Cable car | there is a cable car to the village from Soudah/Sawda National Park, a beautiful mountainous region to the east of Rijal Almaa and home to Saudi Arabia’s highest peak. However, the cost is prohibitively expensive (in our opinion) so we didn’t take this option. It’s 550 to 800 SAR, depending on the number of people, which is £110 to £165!
Driving to Rijal Almaa
The most efficient and cost-effective way to reach Rijal Almaa is by rental car. There are lots of car rental companies based in Abha; we used Discover Cars for four separate rentals so far in Saudi Arabia and fully recommend them.
Be aware that the roads in the ‘Asir region west of Abha are steep, mountainous and precipitous.
Although extremely fun to drive, they require some care and attention, especially during bad weather. We drove through thick fog and heavy rain which can be challenging (less likely to happen if you visit during summer!).
For all the information on driving in Saudi Arabia, have a look a our quirky, detailed driving guide.
Road routes | there are two road routes from Abha to Rijal Alma. One cuts straight through the mountains, and the other takes a flatter, easier, but longer route to the south. We drove both and the mountain route is not difficult, at all, and we’d recommend you drive it if you love amazing mountain scenery!
Getting a tour to Rijal Almaa
If you don’t drive (or don’t want to drive), it is also possible to hire a private tour to reach Rijal Almaa.
This is easy to do via Get Your Guide or enquire with your accommodation of choice. Friends of ours have used Couchsurfing a lot in Saudi Arabia and often got to tour the local attractions with their hosts!
CAR HIRE FOR YOUR SAUDI ARABIA TRIP
We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trips in Oman, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia and Morocco, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.
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When is the Best Time to Visit Rijal Almaa?
Unlike much of Saudi Arabia, the temperatures in the ‘Asir region surrounding Rijal Almaa stay temperate up in the mountains, even during summer.
We visited in March and the temperatures were comfortable, but it did rain a lot (rivers in the street kind of amounts). Our entire time in the ‘Asir region was moody, cloudy, foggy and excessively rainy. March and April are known to be wet (half the rain throughout the year falls during this period) so we should not have been surprised by the weather!
Summer holidays in Abha, however, are popular with Saudi Arabian residents as the temperatures are far more moderate than in Jeddah, Dammam and Riyadh at that time of year. This means the heritage village can be relatively busy with domestic tourism.
The winter months can be very chilly in the mountains – snow is not unheard of (we saw some in March between Taif and Abha).
What to Expect on Your Visit to Rijal Almaa
Currently, the site is in the spotlight to encourage more international visitors to southern Saudi Arabia as part of the Saudi 2030 Vision. With substantial investment by the Saudi Authorities, granted in 2007 by the Prince Sultan bin Salman Award for Urban Heritage, the site has undergone extensive renovations to preserve the historic buildings.
Much of the village has been perfectly preserved; the other portion is still in ruins. You can explore both parts with your ticket; we loved the unrenovated section – it visually puts the extensive renovations into perspective.
There are, unsurprisingly, lots of steps across the site, especially if you head right to the top. It’s not strenuous, but probably worth wearing comfortable footwear!
Each building has a name, with the tallest 16 being called forts due to their considerable height. For example, the museum is in the Al Alwan Fort, named for the generations of family who resided there.
Entry Fees
The entry fee to Rijal Almaa Heritage Village and museum costs 20 SAR (about £4) per person (we paid with cash). Opening hours are 08:00 – 20:00 (although this appears to vary with the season).
The ticket office is located centrally at the bottom of one of the middle buildings, next to the small shop.
The Rijal Almaa Museum
The 12-room, on-site Rijal Almaa Museum, apparently the oldest in the country, is in one of the largest fortresses in the village. It was founded in 1985 from a collective initiative by residents in order to preserve their regional heritage.
Although small, the museum has thousands of visual items, patterns and paintings, many of which were donated directly from residents in the village. The geometric Al-Qatt artwork and decoration was contributed by the women of the village, overseen by regional artist Fatima Ali Abu Qahas. Inside, you can find manuscripts, tools, many kilograms of ancient jewellery and other traditional pieces.
BEST PLACE TO STAY FOR A VISIT TO RIJAL ALMAA
Most people who visit Rijal Almaa stay in Abha. It’s a major town with many accommodation options, along with restaurants, malls, shops and an international airport. There are lots of hotel and apartment choices to suit all budgets and tastes.
We stayed in Abha for five nights and chose the Abha Gardn Millenium Hotel, which was surprisingly luxurious and comfortable, with easy parking.
We would highly recommend it.
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RELATED POST | 11 BEAUTIFUL PLACES IN SAUDI ARABIA
Things to do around Rijal Almaa
There are lots of things to do in the Abha region, along with a visit to Rijal Almaa. Some places to consider include:
The Bees Tower Honey Refinery | lovely, quirky place to come and try some honey. They make the honey on-site (you can even see the bees!). We highly recommend trying all the different types. It’s so beautifully decorated, too.
Soudah/Sawda | the highest mountain in Saudi Arabia has expansive views (when it’s not cloudy!).
Al Habala | an impressive sandstone ‘hanging village’, situated on a cliff with cable car access.
Mountain drives around Rijal Almaa | a vague one, but spend half a day checking out the mountain routes, you won’t be sorry.
Al Jahamah Historical Village and Al Khalaf Archaeological Village | excellent examples of ‘Asiri mudbrick architecture and lovely Al-Qatt artwork.
Spot baboons | all over the Rijal Almaa region (and beyond) live the Hamadryas baboons. These large animals live in huge families and are often seen by the sides of the road. Please don’t feed them though – they’re fed by residents even though there are signs everywhere saying not to (never feed wildlife, it disrupts their way of life).
Rijal Almaa Travel Tips
Here are a few things we figure might make your trip more comfortable:
◊ There are loads of steps, so bring comfy shoes.
◊ It can rain, so bring a jacket or umbrella (it rained on us!).
◊ Although Rijal Almaa is pretty when all lit up at night, it’s the least busy in the morning, so we’d recommend visiting then. We arrived around 10am and it basically empty.
◊ Ensure you dress conservatively. If you’re interested, I’ve written more about what to wear in Saudi Arabia, especially as a woman.
◊ Parking can be a little tricky, but is just all around the road, opposite the site. We got kind of trapped behind a truck thing and it was a whole load of drama!
A Little Bit of Background and History
So, now you know how to get to Rijal Almaa, what to wear, where to park, how much it costs, and things to do around the area, below is a little bit of interesting info we learnt about the heritage village!
What is the Historical Importance of Rijal Almaa?
The origin of Rijal Almaa (variously translated as ‘The Brightest Men’ or ‘The Men of the Region’) dates back almost 1000 years.
Beyond its striking architecture, we learnt that Rijal Almaa was responsible for shaping the cultural and political landscape of ‘Asir due to its unique geographical position. The prominence of this ‘hanging village’ on such harsh, difficult to reach, and isolated terrain offered the advantage of being a deterrent for raiders and provided autonomy from other tribes.
Rijal Almaa in War
The region of Rijal Almaa has been involved or mentioned in wars, conflicts and divisive events throughout its thousand year history.
Soldiers from Rijal Almaa’s tribes are explicitly described in historical texts of early Muslim conquests in the 7th century. These accounts continue through the ages until the 17th century, depicting epic battles with the Ottoman Empire, where Asiri tribes defeat the invading enemy and gain independence for ‘Asir.
Over centuries, the success and bravery of the tribespeople of Rijal Almaa has been legendary. It has been suggested that the name ‘Asir, which translates as ‘difficult’, does not only relate to the rugged terrain, but also the resilience of the citizens who live in it.
To this day, defensive watchtowers dot the surrounding hillsides of Rijal Almaa, which reminded me of an age where the twisting trails brought not just tradesmen and pilgrims, but hostile soldiers, too.
Rijal Almaa In Peace and Pilgrimage
Rijal Almaa was a culture immersed in trade, situated along the ancient perfume and incense routes that ran primarily between the Levant and Yemen.
The incense route, originating 4000 years ago, passed through the wealthy Nabataean Kingdom, which included Petra and Hegra in the north. It continued all the way to the ‘Asir region and Rijal Almaa, then further south into Yemen. This historical merchant trail transited extremely valuable commodities, such as Arabian frankincense and myrrh, between the southern Arabian Peninsula and the Horn of Africa, and as far north as Mesopotamia.
Having driven the entire length of Saudi Arabia, these distances are unfathomable to me!
As a prominent commercial centre for spices, incense and grains, Rijal Almaa serviced regions across the equivalent of modern-day Asia, Africa and Europe. In the village itself, there were goods sold from India, Europe, Africa and even supplies from as far east as Japan (which is incredible, if you think about it!).
Under the increasing influence of Islam after the 7th century CE, Rijal Almaa was also ideally situated on the Hajj and Umrah pilgrimage routes to Makkah and Madinah. This saw the village become a stop for pilgrims from the African continent and the Arabian Peninsula.
Unique Gingerbread House Architecture
The elegant and visually aesthetic structures at Rijal Almaa tell of a grand history, and one of great wealth, cultivated from the trade with passing merchant caravans. You’ll be able to feel the significance that the village once held simply by standing below the grand old buildings.
The multi-tiered, chequerboard buildings have been likened to gingerbread houses due to their distinctive styling. The buildings are constructed from local basalt rock, with windows and doors accented with luminous white sugar-quartz.
Rijal Almaa’s unique vernacular architectural design resembles villages and towns found over the border in Yemen, a country known for its Yemenite high-rise ‘townhouse’ style structures. In Yemen’s capital Sana’a, the Old City shows off similar beautiful tower buildings, with intricate white trims.
While walking around the site, this fascinating resemblance to modern high-rise buildings is actually pretty incredible. In an ancient world that was heavily nomadic and transient, the residents of Rijal Almaa created homes that had small bases, rising 20 metres with up to eight storeys. This is, interestingly, quite a modern, sophisticated concept.
THE CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE OF COLOUR
Within the primary-coloured windows, quartz decor, and thick walls at Rijal Almaa lie a plethora of colourful murals.
These murals, which adorn the fort interiors, are a traditional art form developed and applied by women using a 200-year-old technique called ‘Al-Qatt Al-Asiri’ (or Al-Qut) style.
Originally achieved using pigments extracted from indigenous herbs and flowers, these vivid, bright geometric patterns of diamonds, triangles and squares can be seen all over the region, not just within Rijal Almaa’s walls.
The emphasis on colour in this culture extends far beyond the buildings. Men in the Qahtan tribe who reside in Rijal Almaa do not wear the traditional plain white Saudi thobe, but colourful, stripey regional attire. Called a futa, it resembles a skirt or wrap. They also adorn ornate floral wreaths, for reasons of health and beauty, which have earned them the nickname ‘Flower Men of Saudi Arabia’.
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READ MORE –> SAUDI WOMEN’S FOLKLORE ART
HAVE WE HELPED YOU PLAN A TRIP TO RIJAL ALMAA?
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Final Thoughts
Visiting Rijal Almaa was a really cool experience that we recommend to all.
It’s been sort of gentrified in a way, of which usually I’m not a fan. However, this time it appears to have been done with delicacy and respect for the residents. The unique buildings and traditions are worthy of investment and preservation, and equally worthy of tourists’ time.
Honestly, it’s a region of the world we knew exactly *nothing* about before visiting. We’re so grateful to have spent a chunk of our time in southern Saudi Arabia, learning about somewhere completely new. It was an incredibly friendly, welcoming region; we were even taken out in the evening by a lovely man who studied for a time in our U.K. hometown!
We thoroughly recommend including Rijal Almaa and the ‘Asir region on your Saudi Arabia itinerary.
Have an amazing trip!
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