I love to travel and visit new places (obviously). Specifically though, I thrive on those moments when I stumble upon something you would *never* have learnt about at home. Journeys are full of moments like that for me, and this post is about one of those instances.

In southern Saudi Arabia, chiefly in the ‘Asir province, there exists some truly fascinating Arabic folk art, composed entirely by indigenous women. This ancient, colourful heritage is named Al-Qatt Al-Asiri. The abstract ‘Asiri art form involves bold, geometric wall murals which, to begin with, I had no clue about. I went through a mini journey of discovery as I began seeing emblems scattered about, all over the ‘Asir region. It was a vivid pattern around a rural school gate; green and yellow striped window frames on a mudbrick house; bold, triangular decorations on a leaflet in a hotel foyer. Al-Qatt Al-Asiri was everywhere.

It was only after a trip to the mysterious, almost unknown settlement of Al Khalaf, an Archaeological Village, did I finally learn the background of this amazing artistic practice. Considered a key component of the identity of ‘Asir, in 2017, this unique female artform was recognised by UNESCO, who inscribed it on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

For my tiny part, I just want to shine a little light on a beautiful and unique skill, developed and owned specifically by women. This, in a country that has not always been great at acknowledging them.


Al-Qatt Al-Asiri frescos (also called ‘Nagash’ or ‘Majlis’ paintings) can be spotted all around ‘Asir, an isolated, rugged region of southern Saudi Arabia and home to the tallest mountains in the Kingdom. Accompanying these treacherous, impenetrable peaks are many secluded, autonomous villages, where the practice of Al-Qatt Al-Asiri was commonplace. Some of these communities were extremely difficult to reach, to the extent that they are termed ‘hanging villages’ because inhabitants had to use ropes and ladders to access them.

Villages on the plains of ‘Asir, towards the Red Sea coastline, also have majlis paintings which are often bolder and less detailed than their mountain village counterparts. The lowland artform is less preserved and documented than in the mountainous areas of ‘Asir but still exists in small pockets.

A hidden art for centuries, Al-Qatt was brought to the attention of outsiders by Thierry Mauger, a French researcher who started visiting southern Saudi Arabia in the late 1970s. The lack of worldwide tourism to the region meant that few people observed these distinctive, colourful arrays (outside of Mauger’s relatively specialist books). With Saudi Arabia’s recent impetus on tourism, these small mountain communities and their unique heritage have come into focus en masse with foreigners for (nearly) the first time.

An Al-Qatt Al-Asiri pattern on a painted blue wooden door.
Pattern | Al Khalaf
A painted window frame and shutter on a mud brick building in the village of Al Khalaf.
Coloured window

I’ve read that the word ‘Qatt’ means ‘line’. I’ve also read that it translates as ‘to write’ and is pronounced ‘gath’. It’s also said to mean ‘sculpture’, ‘cut’ or ‘calligraphy’. I’m not sure which is correct, but all these words have something in common – they describe a method or technique of design.

‘Qattata’ is used to reference somebody who produces the Al-Qatt Al-Asiri art. Another term is ‘majlis painter’, in reference to the parlour, or welcoming area where guests were received in a traditional ‘Asiri home.

SAUDI ARABIA ITINERARY   |   HEGRA VS. PETRA

The Al-Qatt Al-Asiri artform is characterised by bold, rich, statement murals. They are constructed from abstract, freehand geometric symbols and patterns, a technique that is said to be spontaneous and unplanned. The same traditional designs have been applied for centuries, typically consisting of a combination of squares, triangles, branch-like figures and parallel lines. The regularly repeating shapes and bold colours like mustard yellow, green and red are emphasised with black lines.

Murals are painted on the interior walls, windows and doors in the traditional ‘Asiri home. It was commonly applied to enhance a room, called the majlis, designed for welcoming guests. The Al-Qatt Al-Asiri patterns often wrap around the entire space of the majlis.

The shapes and patterns of the Al-Qatt Al-Asiri murals are not random. They symbolise people, religion and elements of the environment, such as trees, feathers, corn and mountains. I’ve been told various meanings for the symbols, with each part, or layer, representative of something specific. For example, the triangles represent women and children, the concentric squares symbolise the completion of the Quran while half-circles denote the direction of Makkah. 

Although modern-day Al-Qatt artists use synthetic paints, until around 80 years ago, the colours used in Al-Qatt Al-Asiri artwork were all crafted from natural resources found in the region. The oldest wall-paintings were generally in shades of green, brown, black, white and red. As trade increased, additional materials became more easily accessible, enabling the artists to develop richer and more elaborate forms.

Typically, the white base of the Al-Qatt Al-Asiri murals was composed from a sedimentary calcareous mix, basically a limewash, derived from gypsum found in the surrounding mountains. This was then mixed with water, Arabic gum or salt and applied as the foundation coating.

Other commonly used colours include black, blue, red, yellow and green, all traditionally made from locally sourced materials:

◊ Black dye was made by grinding coal and then combining it with a tree gum.
◊ Iron-rich Al Meshgah (or meshiga) stones, crushed and combined with a pigment from tree bark called carmine, created an orange/red colour.
◊ Blue comes from a sedimentary rock found in the ‘Asiri mountains, locally termed ‘Blue Nile’, which is mixed with water.
◊ Yellow is derived from sulphur powder, sourced from the local terrain. Turmeric root and pomegranate peel were also used.
◊ Green comes from plants, including herbs, recently cut grass and khat.

For finer lines and detailed sections, paintbrushes were fashioned from twigs of myrrh or salvadora persica, sheep wool, feathers or goat tail fur. The end of twigs would be chewed to make the brush. Cloths were used for covering larger areas.

Al Qatt Al-Asiri art work spaning a drainpipe at Al Khalaf Village, Saudi Arabia.
Al-Qatt Al-Asiri patterns
An intricate Al-Qatt Al-Asiri mural at Rijal Almaa museum near Abha, Saudi Arabia.
Al-Qatt Al-Asiri Art | Rijal Almaa Museum

Typically, women oversee the interior decoration of the ‘Asiri family home. The practice of Al-Qatt Al-Asiri design was seen as strictly a woman’s responsibility, as men constructed the buildings. The knowledge and expertise of Al-Qatt were inherited, passed through generations of women via familial teamwork and observation, often from a young age.

One of the most prominent modern-day proponents of Al-Qatt Al-Asiri art was Fatima bint Ali Abu Qahas, who started learning the trade at just eight. She later became a famed painter after being widowed with four children, having to find work to earn money. This was possible in previous decades, as the ‘Asir region was less conservative. It was common for women to paint others’ homes, often for payment via bartering. Abu Qahas advocated for Al-Qatt Al-Asiri art for most of her life, painting for 70 years, before dying in 2010. An example of her extraordinary, celebrated art can be seen by tourists in the Rijal Almaa Museum.

Colourful geometric shapes on the wall of a building in the Al-Qatt Al-Asiri style in the village of Al Khalaf.
Al-Qatt Al-Asiri patterns
Al-Qatt Al-Asiri art on the walls at Al Khalaf village in Saudi Arabia.
Painted doors
Colourful painted walls and window framing on am Al Qatt Al-Asiri style house.
Coloured layers

Hints of Al-Qatt Al-Asiri design can be seen all over the Asir region in the architecture, pottery, fireplaces, carvings and fabrics. There is even an ‘Art Street’ in central Abha that displays Al-Qatt Al-Asiri patterns. However, for specific places to see the creations, we recommend Rijal Almaa, Fatimah’s Museum and Al Khalaf Archaeological Village.

his imposing, 1000-year-old Asir mountain village is home to Saudi Arabia’s oldest museum, decorated in Al-Qatt style by Fatima Abu Qahas. The entire archaeological site has nods to Al-Qatt Al-Asiri artwork and is really worth visiting. Have a peek at our dedicated post on exploring Rijal Almaa if you’d like to read more, it is one of our favourite places in Saudi Arabia.

This delicately crafted museum is situated just outside the major city of Abha. Set up by Fatima Faye Al-Almaai, it celebrates the culture of Women in ‘Asir. Al-Almaai was trained in the art form by Fatima Abu Qahas, who she says ‘played a big role in immortalizing it through teaching it to a number of ladies’. The museum houses a huge number of Al-Qatt Al-Asiri designs – as wall murals, antiques and other household objects.

This distinctive heritage site is an abandoned village that I’ve managed to find very little information about (I wish I spoke Arabic). It’s one of our highlights of the ‘Asir region though, simply because it was so unexpected. The village is a superb example of old ‘Asiri mudbrick-style architecture, along with the wonderful examples of Al-Qatt Al-Asiri art. Al Khalaf was completely deserted when we visited and there is no tourist infrastructure whatsoever (just the way I like it!).

Throughout the village, there are bright doors painted with Al-Qatt Al-Asiri designs, contrasting so beautifully against the sandy, spiky, mud-coloured buildings. Occasionally, I’d notice a window frame with hues of colour or an intricately carved engraving. At the mosque, where we parked our car, the entire area was decorated with Al-Qatt Al-Asiri murals. It was really striking and from that moment on, I’ve been a little bit obsessed.

It’s easier to explain this characteristic village in pictures, so below are a collection we took during our trip, showing decorated doors, some very old looking art on the inside of an abandoned home, and lots of amazing architecture.

Uniform art style of Al-Qatt Al-Asiri on a mud brick building at Rijal Almaa.
Painted window shutters and decorated window surround in the Al-Qatt Al-Asiri style.

We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trips in Oman, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia and Morocco, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.

If you book through the link below, we make a small profit, at zero cost to you, which helps us write these posts with no advertising! We only endorse products and companies we actually use regularly. For more information, read our position on affiliates.



TAKE A LOOK BELOW OR CHECK CAR RENTAL

Al-Qatt inspired design on a school

It’s worth noting that we rarely look at images of a destination before visiting. This is partly from a lack of preparation, but also because I love seeing something for the first time in person and not on Google Images. It’s a fortunate habit in this case, since the Al-Qatt Al-Asiri artform is so visually distinctive. I’m grateful it kind of took me by surprise when we arrived in ‘Asir.

Al-Qatt Al-Asiri was also a surprising discovery. In a country that is known for limiting women’s rights, learning about a female led art form that was so dominant in the region is subtly empowering.

It is also remarkable that this unique artform has influenced people of all genders, especially men, who are now incorporating ‘Asiri women’s design elements into their own work. This is an inspiring thought as women in Saudi Arabia continue to slowly gain more rights.

If you haven’t already, I hope you consider visiting the ‘Asiri region. Truthfully, it’s fantastic that you’ve even come across this post! Have an amazing day!


Hi, thanks for visiting our blog! If this post has been of help to you, or you’ve just enjoyed our random ramblings and musings, say thank you by buying us a coffee! It helps keep The Restless Beans blog up and running without ads.

Thank you, Claire + Nick


7 Comments

  1. Wow, this was such an interesting read! How the make the different colors and the tools has always been so fascinating ! Transports to a new world

  2. How interesting to read more about the Al-Qatt-Al-Asiri art you found on your visit to southern Saudi Arabia. I love all the bright colours. And always fascinating to read about how the different dyes are made. Fun to find this art form a surprise when you arrived.

  3. So everything in your post is new to me and I didn’t want to stop reading. It’s fascinating to learn about the tools used to make this incredible art! I’m impressed you try not to look at pictures before you go, maybe its my anxiety but I have to be somewhat prepared haha

    1. Thanks so much! Our travel style is a bit unique I think (probably borne out of laziness 😅). It’s a really beautiful area of the country too – such a surprise!

  4. Thank you very much.
    I really feel very happy when I read a beautiful expression about my city. Indeed, drawing on the wall has an ancient history and gives the house a spirit and beauty just like the beauty of the land. Thank you both.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *