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There’s a whole lot of media and tourist attention on the ethics of elephant tourism currently. It’s one of the most popular online questions in Thailand and southeast Asia tourist groups –
‘where can I visit an *ethical* elephant sanctuary?’.
I’m not sure that most people behind these enquiries really comprehend what ‘ethics’ they are actually looking for. After all, most visitors won’t seek out elephants unless they are able to have some kind of interaction with them. In fact, according to a report in 2016 by World Animal Protection, 40% of tourists rode, or intended to ride, an elephant during their Thailand holiday.
I could write some lengthy emotional plea, requesting people not to take part in questionable animal tourism in Thailand; it’d be in vain though. As per a quote from this Adventure.com article, tourists often don’t really care if they are confronted with the realities of elephant abuse:
‘why don’t you fuck off. You’re ruining our day’.
So, I thought I’d just write specifically about my trip to Koh Chang, Thailand’s third largest island. Hidden away in the gulf, towards the border with Cambodia, this little slice of paradise is less visited than other Thai islands on the tourist radar.
I can call Koh Chang a little slice of paradise; however, it’s definitely not a paradise for any of the elephants residing in the five camps on the island. In fact, it is quite the opposite.
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IN THIS GUIDE //
Koh Chang Elephants
A BRIEF RUNDOWN ON ELEPHANT ETHICS
– ETHICAL BEHAVIOUR WITH ELEPHANTS
– ELEPHANT SANCTUARIES
– HOW TO TELL IF AN ELEPHANT SANCTUARY IS ETHICAL
– DIFFERENCES BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT SANCTUARY AND CAMP
A QUICK SUMMARY OF KOH CHANG
– GETTING TO KOH CHANG
DISCOVERING THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
– THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANT CAMPS
– A PLEA FOR THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
– ALTERNATIVE EXPERIENCES TO THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
FINAL THOUGHTS – KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
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A BRIEF RUNDOWN ON ELEPHANT ETHICS
Although the internet is saturated with issues of animal ethics, it still seems unclear about what is right and wrong, particularly surrounding elephants in southeast Asia. These (relatively) gentle giants hold a special place in many people’s hearts, which (I personally think) clouds their judgment on what is actually acceptable behaviour and what isn’t. An enormous number of elephants across Asia are subject to lifelong, widespread cruelty.
ETHICAL BEHAVIOUR WITH ELEPHANTS
It’s pretty simple – do not engage in forced contact with an elephant. If you interact with the elephants and in anyway change what their day looks like, it’s unethical.
So, for example, riding elephants is a *massive no*. Bathing with elephants or feeding elephants when they are forced to approach you is not okay. Elephants performing tricks or painting pictures for tourists is also not okay. Interfering in any way, as a tourist, is unlikely to be ethical. On a personal level, I’d question why anybody would want to do any of this too.
If you’d like to find out why it’s unethical to bathe, feed or otherwise have contact with the elephants, check out the World Animal Protection, who can explain it better than I can.
The words of Lek Saengduean Chailert, founder of Elephant Nature Park, an ethical sanctuary near Chiang Mai, say it best:
An ethical sanctuary means no performing ever. Let tourists just see them being elephants. To see them scratch their bodies on trees, watch them eat their own food from the jungle, and bathe and take mud baths for themselves
It is, however, totally okay to visit a (proper) sanctuary and learn about elephants (in fact, it’s encouraged). Helping prepare the elephants’ food, take a hike around their world, watching them from a distance or spotting them from a viewing tower.
Doing this, while not interfering with the animals or their eco system, is ideal.
ELEPHANT SANCTUARIES
An animal ‘sanctuary’ or ‘refuge’ is designed, in theory, to take animals from an abusive situation and, ideally, rehabilitate them so they can be returned to the wild. However, sometimes the abuse an animal has suffered is so significant, for their own welfare, they must remain in captivity for the rest of their lives.
Just because an organisation calls itself a sanctuary, does not mean it treats its furry or scaley inhabitants ethically. Often, they are unscrupulously established with the primary aim of making money. These organisations can be deliberately designed to appear as a charity, when they are actually very much ‘for-profit’. They are hoodwinking tourists into believing their money is for something noble, which is very similar to greenwashing.
Obviously, it costs money to save animals from awful conditions. However, this does not justify the mistreatment, torture or breeding of them (without the express intent to release the babies back into the wild). Any creature rescued from traumatic circumstances, especially inflicted by humans, should be allowed to live as natural a life as possible.
This is where it appears to get confusing. If an elephant is removed from a circus, temple or the logging industry, then rehomed in a sanctuary, the likelihood is that its living conditions will, at least mildly, improve. However, that does not mean humans should take advantage of this animal with the excuse that ‘at least it’s an improvement on its previous condition’.
HOW TO TELL IF AN ELEPHANT SANCTUARY IS ETHICAL
There are few, if any, audits on most organisations that claim to be sanctuaries, refuges or camps. Most operate without any oversight, meaning that it’s often hard to know if they are a good, ethical choice. World Animal Protection published a report stating that in 2019, only 5% of the 2,798 elephants across the surveyed camps in Thailand met welfare standards in observation-only venues. This means that, statistically, it’s going to be hard to find a welfare-forward establishment.
Apart from the obvious things like riding, also consider:
◊ Are baby elephants bred into permanent captivity to earn money?
◊ Are there shackles to restrict the elephants’ movement? (this can be hard to spot in some cases)
◊ Do the elephants perform in any way for tourists?
◊ Do the mahouts (the elephant minders) use metal bull hooks, or even electric prods?
◊ Do the sanctuaries allow overnight or weeklong stays?
◊ Do elephants exhibit psychological stress behaviours such as swaying, pacing and bobbing their heads at trekking camps?
◊ Check reviews carefully and if in doubt, say no.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT SANCTUARY AND CAMP
Yes, there is a difference between elephant sanctuaries and elephant camps. Sanctuaries focus on elephant welfare, rehabilitation and education. Camps tend to be designed to entertain tourists.
Although, as mentioned above, some elephant camps masquerade as ethical sanctuaries to encourage visitors, so be savvy with your decision making! There are no Koh Chang elephant sanctuaries.
PHAJAAN
Phajaan is a technique used to ‘crush the spirit’ of an elephant. It’s both a long-standing tradition and an accepted practice in Thailand. In order to train a young elephant, they are removed from their family and tortured with bull hooks and other sharp devices. Often they are starved and sleep-deprived, leading to them being submissive of their human owner out of fear.
Elephants are wild animals and not at all domesticated. This means they do not instinctively follow orders, like dogs, for example. To train an elephant involves this barbaric practice, which is likely to have happened to most Koh Chang elephants that were not born in captivity.
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WHAT IS SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL? | THE QUEST FOR AN AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE
A QUICK SUMMARY OF KOH CHANG
So, back to the purpose of this post.
Koh Chang is a large island in the Gulf of Thailand, near the border with Cambodia. Coincidently, considering the topic of this post, Koh Chang translates as ‘Elephant Island’ although this is due to its shape, rather than elephant inhabitants. It is a less frequented tourist destination than Phuket, Chiang Mai and Krabi, for example, resulting in mostly low-key tourist facilities and services. These include hotels, restaurants, bars and, sadly, the Koh Chang elephant camps.
GETTING TO KOH CHANG
The island is not directly served by an airport; the nearest is in Trat, nearby on the mainland. There are buses and flights from Bangkok to Trat, where it is possible to transfer to Koh Chang by taxi, public transport and, of course, ferry. Buses also depart from Ekkamai station in Bangkok directly to the ferry pier that services Koh Chang (this is the best option – the bus is super comfortable, great value and friendly). For more detailed information, check out our dedicated post on Koh Chang.

DISCOVERING THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
Arriving on Koh Chang, elephants were not the first thing on my mind. The oppressive heat, combined with a growing resentment about the weight of my bag, surpassed all other thoughts. However, as we flew down the steep hills with our heads poking out of the open-sided shared taxis, I saw an elephant. Then another, and another.
In my naïve mind, it was not what I imagined. I knew elephant abuse existed, but I didn’t know it would be so explicit.
Later that day, my curiosity got the better of me and I rode my scooter over to one of the camps. There was a single, forlorn elephant; stood alone in the dust with a chain around its ankle. A metal seat dangled from a pillar above its head. Next to the elephant, a sharp metal tool punctured the wooden structure. All this, in plain view of the road.
After witnessing these cruel conditions, I Googled ‘Koh Chang Elephants’. You’ll see posts encouraging elephant riding, selling tours with laughing children perched on top of an elephant. Not condemning, but condoning. It was so confusing to me – surely elephant riding was frowned upon now, across the world – surely tourists knew better?
Well, apparently not.
I then started thinking – would this kind of thing openly fly in Phuket or Chiang Mai? Why was it okay to have such explicit abuse so proudly on show in Koh Chang? Honestly, I don’t have the answer, apart from possibly the nationality of visitors. The proportion of Thai nationals visiting Koh Chang is nearly 70% (in 2018). If the culture around elephants as ‘working animals’ is different for Thai people versus international visitors, this might explain the tolerance, in part. Of the small proportion of international tourists, Germans, Russians and an emerging Chinese market make the majority.


THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANT CAMPS
Elephants are not indigenous to Koh Chang, despite the island’s name. The Koh Chang elephants have all been transported to the island via truck and ferry.
There are five elephant camps on the island, each with around 6-10 elephants (at time of writing). If you visit Koh Chang, you can’t miss several of them – elephants are chained up directly on the main roads. There are normally some elephants visible to encourage tourists to feed them (for a fee).
Unless something has changed significantly since the last time I visited, the camps are exploitative. The explicit use of chains, metal hooks, whipping and breeding is all visibly commonplace. For reference, according to iamkohchang.com, baby elephants have been born in these camps in recent years. Also, check out Tripadvisor reviews of this Koh Chang elephant camp and this Koh Chang elephant camp for reports on the tours (I didn’t do one so can’t directly comment).
These camps offer elephant riding with metal chairs which perch on the peak of the elephant’s spine (check out some of the photos in the reviews). This progressively damages the animal’s back and, more immediately, gives them blisters and sores. The camps also offer swimming and feeding sessions with the elephants. According to reviews, the elephants are ‘visibly emaciated’ and multiple reviews discuss displays of psychological issues such as ‘swaying’. It has also been mentioned by some visitors that the elephants have been trained to do tricks.
These elephants are shackled at the ankle, unable to roam around due to the geographical nature of Koh Chang – the lack of acreage available is not appropriate for elephants.
A PLEA FOR THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
It has been argued that if we don’t visit these elephant camps, then the Koh Chang elephants will starve. Now, although I agree that this is a risk, it simply doesn’t justify paying money towards cruelty. By frequenting places that openly treat their animals with disregard in the name of money, we continue to perpetuate the suffering. In particular, with the breeding of baby elephants for money.
The Koh Chang elephant camps have bred baby elephants with neither an intention of them being relocated to a sanctuary-type environment nor released into the wild. If tourists keep funding this practice, it will never be remedied. Every time a baby elephant is born in captivity in Koh Chang, it perpetuates another 60-70 years of imprisonment and cruelty. Every single time.
There are a surprising number of Koh Chang tourism related websites/companies out there that will try to persuade you that it’s okay. After all, there’s no place for these elephants to go, so why not go for it and have some fun? Some say almost *exactly that message*. Please, please see through their false claims and ignore them.
I’m not trying to tell anybody what to do, this is just my little plea. However, I am trying to raise awareness of practices that are frowned upon by a huge number of qualified, well-known experts, which I’m proud to do. The Koh Chang elephants that I saw upset and shocked me, emotions that I wanted to share.
If you are heading to Koh Chang and are considering seeing some elephants, please read the reviews of the camps and do your research. Do it for the sake of the Koh Chang elephants.
ALTERNATIVE EXPERIENCES TO THE KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
There are no ethical elephant experiences on Koh Chang. Koh Chang elephant camps allow elephant riding, amongst other practices.
According to Renu Rothom, owner of Pattaya Elephant Sanctuary, riding camps typically get far more money from tourists than hands-off elephant centres. As expected, tourist money drives the motivation of most camp owners. So, as well as approaching the more brutal elephant camps directly, it may be more effective to educate the tourists that fund them, which helps encourage better conduct indirectly.
As a tourist, we speak with our money. Whether it’s climate change initiatives, sustainability, giant corporations or animal welfare, where we put our money matters. Here are a couple of recommended elephant experiences which prioritise the animal’s welfare and visitor education:
Elephant Nature Park – Chiang Mai
ChangChill – Chiang Mai
Following Giants – Koh Lanta
Consider visiting these organisations as part of your holiday if you fancy supporting elephant conservation and rehabilitation.


FINAL THOUGHTS – KOH CHANG ELEPHANTS
So, maybe it is just because there are fewer tourists on Koh Chang, but I found the elephant cruelty here incredibly explicit. There was no shame, no secretive behaviour or denial from the elephant camps. Many tour operators advertised elephant activities and some camps had laminated guide sheets for tourists to flip through multiple pages of elephant anguish.
Sitting in my accommodation in Kai Bae, I could clearly hear the distressed calls of the Koh Chang elephants from their chains, not so far away.
Whatever you choose to do with respect to the Koh Chang Elephants on your trip, thanks for reading this. Please remember though, nobody *needs* to touch, bathe or feed elephants. Hikers have a ‘leave no trace’ policy so why can’t elephant tourists follow suit?
What’s more important, a perfect photo for social media or the elephant’s wellbeing?
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Thank you, Claire + Nick
Oh my God. Are there any sanctuaries on koh chang for elephants? And what kind of abuse, do they hit them?
I was thinking of moving there and try to help in some way, I’m just so sad hearing this. I saw a chained elephant there on a YouTube video but I didn’t know it was as bad as you are saying. Do you think there is a chance I can somehow make awareness there and make a difference or is it a lost cause do you think??
Hi, thanks for your message. There aren’t any actual elephant sanctuaries as far as I know. I don’t think it is a lost cause, but I also don’t know what to do. Funding ethical options is a great idea, as well as spreading the word so more people understand what these poor animals go through. It’s a complex issue to fix when it involves livelihoods and animal ethics.
Hi, thank you Claire and Nick for this very informative article. I’ve been to Koh Chang twice, last time January/ February 2024 . Nothing changed, the way the elephants are treated there is awful, shocking and almost unbelievable in its cruelty. I’m very sensitive person and seeing them chained and cried, it is a heart braking experience. I never engaged in any of this advertised tourist attractions to feed or ride elephants. However, I’ve visited one of the elephants’ camp, further away from the main road, hoping that it will be something different. Unfortunately, it was the worst. The chain is no longer than 1m, and the elephants seem never to be moved to different places. I saw the tear rolling down elephants cheek. I was left shocked, profoundly upset by this cruelty, crying in my heart.
I’m back home now but still thinking about these poor animals and what can I do to help them. I love Koh Chang, but I can’t accept how elephants are treated there. The must be a way to change it…