How to Hike to the White Rim via the Lathrop Trail, Canyonlands
Scribbled by Claire ◊ 19 Aug 2024
Are you’re looking for a moderately challenging hike or overnight backpacking trip in Canyonlands National Park? consider hiking the Lathrop Trail! It’s a lesser visited part of the Island in the Sky district of the park, with vast views and access to the legendary White Rim Road. For routes, permits, camping and backpacking info, hike difficulty, and more, read on.
Canyonlands is one of those national parks that most people have heard of, but many overlook; the proximity to its more fashionable neighbour, Arches, means it tends to get overshadowed.
However, skipping Canyonlands would be a huge mistake! It is home to some spectacular vistas and hiking routes, ones that journey from the cloud-scraping mesa 1700 feet above, down onto the canyon floor.
Personally I love this park more than any other, which is why I’ve hiked so many of the trails! The Lathrop Trail is one of the routes that I’ve found that never genuinely fails to impress.
It delivers diverse scenery and the chance to walk on the famous White Rim Road; a experience you can only otherwise have with an expensive four-wheel drive vehicle and permit. Now you can join them, on foot! It’s also one of the best trails in the park to avoid the crowds, due to it’s length (it’s one of the longest).
The route also has versatile camping opportunities, depending on what facilities you need. We really rate it!
IN THIS GUIDE //
Hiking the Lathrop Trail, Canyonlands
WHAT IS THE LATHROP TRAIL?
MAP OF THE LATHROP TRAIL
LATHROP TRAIL DESCRIPTION
HOW DIFFICULT IS THE LATHROP TRAIL?
BACKPACKING PERMITS
AT-LARGE OR DESIGNATED CAMPING?
WEATHER AND SEASONS
WHAT TO PACK
RULES FOR BACKPACKING IN ISLAND IN THE SKY
PLACES TO STAY IN MOAB
FINAL THOUGHTS
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What is the Lathrop Trail in Canyonlands?
The Lathrop Trail is a hiking route within the northernmost section of Canyonlands National Park, in a district called Island in the Sky.
This district is centred around a towering, thousands of feet high mesa – the aforementioned ‘Island in the sky’ (the district is logically named).
As one of four main hiking routes from the mesa down to the White Rim Road, the Lathrop Trail serves as an important walkway down to the plateau and is one of very few paths that lead all the way to the Colorado River.
The trail is named after rancher Howard Lathrop, who required a means of transporting supplies to his animals on the White Rim by foot. In fact, the first 1.5 miles is through a flattish grasslands called Grays Pasture; it is easy to imagine farm animals grazing here. The trail was built in the 1940s and to this day is the longest official route in the district (and some say one of the most strenuous).
The full walk is a lengthy day-hike or an enjoyable two-day backpacking trip. The trail provides opportunities to hike along the actual White Rim Road or continue all the way to down to the Colorado River. If these options are too vigorous or you are short on time, there are several decent options to cut this hike short and just do half a day, which still provide epic vistas.
LATHROP TRAIL – QUICK FACTS
PERMITS REQUIRED | Yes for overnight, no for day-hikes
LENGTH ONE-WAY | 6 miles to the White Rim then 4 miles to the Colorado River
COST | $36 per permit plus $5 per person per night
BEST SEASON | March to May and September to November
CAMPSITES AVAILABLE | Designated sites at Airport A, B, C, D; at-large otherwise
BUILT | In the 1940s
MAX GROUP SIZE | 7 people
STARTING ELEVATION | 5810 feet (1770 metres)
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HIKING THE FIERY FURNACE IN ARCHES | ONE PERFECT DAY IN CAPITOL REEF
Map of the Lathrop Trail
There are no actual maps from the National Park Service of individual hikes. However, you can see the general trail direction and relation to the mesa and White Rim on the below map, courtesy of the NPS.
Note | do not use Google Maps for this hike. We thought it would be okay because it looks well marked – but it wasn’t correct! The trail must have changed since Google added it – you now have to traverse a massive rockslide at around 38.414292, -109.813571 which blocks the path.
Google is definitely not up to date! AllTrails appears to have the correct route to the White Rim, so I’d recommend using that.
The trail technically ends at the White Rim Road (there is a sign), however there is the four-mile long road, nearly opposite, which you can continue down to the river.
WHAT IS THE WHITE RIM?
Throughout this post and on the map above, you’ll see references to the ‘White Rim’, in relation to Canyonlands National Park. This is a geological feature of Island in the Sky that can be clearly spotted from the mesa above.
If you look down from any of the viewpoints, the edges of the canyons appear white. This white sandstone, present at the rim of the inner gorges around the Green and Colorado rivers, is more resistant to erosion.
The only way to see the White Rim up close is to hike, or drive a four-wheel drive vehicle (permit required) 1500+ feet below the Island in the Sky mesa. To experience it up close in-person is rare; most visitors only see it from far away.
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Brief Lathrop Trail Description
The first 1.5 miles – this is easy, undulating grasslands, very different to the Canyonlands you see in photos. Also, there are beautiful views of the La Sal Mountains.
For the next mile, the path continues over slickrock. This can be challenging to figure out the path through – watch for cairns. We struggled here both on the way down and on the way back! From the slickrock you drop down sharply and follow the rim of the canyon around and back into Lathrop Canyon. Keep an eye out for where to drop down to the next level, around 38.412097, -109.807716. Here is when you get to see Airport Tower in all its glory.
At about the three-mile marker is where Google Maps goes very wrong. The cairns are really helpful here, indicating where the ‘switchbacks’ are. We honestly didn’t even consider them switchbacks – it’s just one, absolutely massive, incredibly steep rockslide that you have to traverse!
At four miles in, you’ve reached the canyon floor. From here there are several routes towards the White Rim. Again, there are cairns, but you can just follow the wash if you get lost (this is what the ranger told us when we picked up our permits – she implied that a lot of people get confused there!).
There are a few ups and downs as you cross the desert and the wash but generally, these last couple of miles are easy and there are various options you can take. The last half a mile (if not more) is just following the wash directly down to the end of the trail; continue to watch out for small cairns.
ROUTE FINDING
Following the cairns on this route was tricky, I’m not going to lie, especially going down the switchbacks. It was probably the second most difficult, in terms of route finding, that we’ve done (behind Hermit Creek in the Grand Canyon – that was a nightmare in dwindling light!).
However, you always know which direction you need to be heading in and there’s rarely an opportunity to go too far astray, so I’d describe this as moderately easy for route-finding, especially as the route is clear at the beginning and end. We’re just enormously incompetent.
As mentioned previously, just don’t use Google Maps!
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How Difficult is the Lathrop Trail?
The National Park Service lists this hike as ‘steep and strenuous’, and in part, they are correct. Sections of this hike are exceedingly steep, plus the round-trip length of 12-20 miles is also not a short stroll.
However, we are not super fit (at all) and found it moderate.
The Trail
There is only one section which was tricky, and it was the 1000 foot elevation change switchbacks/landslide section. This had huge boulders and tall steps, it needed us to use our hands and it was difficult on the descent. However, this section was probably about half a mile long. The rest of the hike was mostly undulating with no sustained elevation change.
The trail was also much easier going up. We were dreading the walk/climb up the rockslide after the tricky descent, but it was fun and not difficult at all, comparably (even though it was raining and slippery).
Water Availability
Another hurdle with this hike is the lack of water.
There is no water anywhere on the White Rim unless you drop to the Colorado River and the water there is often too silty to filter. At the bottom of the Lathrop Trail, at the intersection with the White Rim Road, the Colorado is still another four miles away, which means hauling lots of water, especially in warmer months.
How to get Backpacking Permits for the Lathrop Trail
If you want to stay overnight anywhere on the White Rim, you must obtain a permit – either for a designated campground or an ‘at large’ zone that will be assigned based on your route. Day hikes do not require one.
To get a Lathrop Trail permit, pop into the visitor centre in Island in the Sky or make a reservation online (preferable due to demand).
Don’t forget you must also pay the Canyonlands National Park fee of $30 (allows access for seven days) to hike the Lathrop Trail. Your America the Beautiful pass will cover this if you have one.
Is Getting a Permit Competitive?
Yes, getting a backpacking permit in Canyonlands can sometimes be difficult.
During busy seasons, permits can sell out incredibly quickly, so plan ahead if you intend to stay overnight. However, the driving permits with designated campsites are usually far more competitive than the backpacking ‘at large’ hiker’s camps.
Permits are available four months in advance of the dates you want. Specifically, they are released in bulk, four times a year. Check out our Driving the White Rim Road post for more permit details – it is the same process for vehicles and backpackers.
If you are successful in obtaining a permit online, you must pick it up in person from the visitor centre or NPS centre in Moab. The rangers will go through all the rules and regulations and provide any extra information you need, plus a weather forecast.
At-Large or Designated Camping for the Lathrop Trail?
So, which do you choose – an at-large or a designated campsite? Here are some thoughts to help you decide:
Reservations | at-large permits are far easier to obtain and are less competitive. The designated sites used by vehicles on the White Rim sell out exceptionally quickly.
Toilets | designated sites have a pit toilet. At-large sites mean you will have to pack a wag bag or dig a hole depending on your location.
Privacy | at-large sites allow you to choose anywhere you want to camp within your (very large) assigned zone. You must camp one mile from any road, meaning it is isolated and private compared with the mostly open areas for the designated camps.
Low-impact | at-large sites mean finding your own low-impact site and distinguishing between bio-crusts and allowed camping areas.
Note | contrary to other information online: you are allowed to book a designated campsite on the White Rim if you are a backpacker without a vehicle (such as Airport A/B/C/D which are perfect for the Lathrop Trail). The online booking rules are not clear, so I contacted the rangers directly by email who confirmed that despite the ambiguous website wording, you do not have to have a vehicle.
WEATHER AND SEASONS ON THE LATHROP TRAIL
The peak hiking season in Canyonlands National Park is spring (April – May) and fall (September – November). These seasons have moderate weather, mostly avoiding the snowy winters and oppressive summer heat. During these months, temperatures are mild; usually between 60F and 80F degrees with cool nights.
Be aware that mid-late summer carries with it the risk of monsoon rains and extreme thunderstorms. Never hike when there is a risk of severe weather and stay away from cliff edges.
Our experience: we have visited the park numerous times in all seasons but deep winter. It has only rained once, which was when we were hiking the Lathrop Trail in fall (October).
Despite the rain, the nights were perfect camping temperatures. In spring (late May) we drove and camped along the White Rim Road and the weather was, once again, perfect and we did not encounter any rain. Our visits during summer were scorching hot and it was, predictably, uncomfortable to hike and camp.
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WHAT TO PACK
Here are a few things we’d recommend for hiking in Canyonlands:
Plasters | for your tortured feet
Toilet paper | yunno
A bag for said toilet roll | leave no trace
All the water | there is none, take a gallon for a day hike
(Head) torch | just in case
Electrolytes | it gets sweaty out there
Clothes in layers | it can be chilly in the mornings
Hat and Buff | because of the sun and sand
Sunscreen | again, for the sun
Calories | the best part of hiking is eating, right?
Hand sanitiser | because no running water
Hiking poles | makes the steep down hills easier
Specifically for camping:
Decent tent pegs | the ground can be very hard
Tent footprint | this is optional, but the ground is very sharp and rocky
Warmish camp gear | this would be useful if you get cold when you camp (like me).
Permit | do not forget a printed copy
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Rules for Backpacking Island in the Sky
Here are a few things to bear in mind for your trip on the Lathrop Trail:
Bear Canisters | there is no need for bear canisters or ratsacks. Although the National Park Service says to keep your food safe, the ranger we spoke to said there were very few critters. We have had no problem with animals in any of our camps.
No fires | even in designated campsites.
No pets | anywhere on the trails.
Bathrooms | the bathroom situation depends on the type of camp you choose and which district you are in. Every designated campground/site has a pit toilet. For at-large zones in Island in the Sky, you are allowed to dig a hole if you are more than half a mile from the Colorado or Green River. If you are unsure, bring wag bags for your trip.
Water | You are allowed to cache some water on the trail but tell a ranger when you pick up your permit. You need to fill out a quick form. We did this, it was a simple process.
CAR HIRE FOR YOUR SOUTHERN UTAH TRIP
We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trip in the United States, with Discover Cars. They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.
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TAKE A LOOK BELOW OR CHECK CAR RENTAL
PLACES TO STAY IN MOAB
Moab is the nearest town to the Island of the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park. It makes a great base for before and after your hiking or backpacking trip.
We’ve stayed in loads of places in Moab at varying budgets (Moab is generally expensive – stay in Green River for slightly lower prices, or camp). These are the best ones we’ve found:
Bowen Motel ($$) – this simple motel has the most central location on the main street, comfortable, clean rooms, and often a decent price point. We’ve stayed here a few times now and never been let down. It’s always our choice when the price is right.
Moab Rustic Inn ($$) – decent sized but slightly dated rooms, however it was clean, quiet, with a great price-point and also had a pool.
River Canyon Lodge ($$) – we’ve stayed here a few times since they did room renovations and it’s nice. The rooms are small, but modern, there’s a pool and the location is right next to the Moab Food Truck Park, which we love. You can hear a little through the walls though.
Kokopelli West ($$$) – super cute, colourful cabins, lovely hosts, great location. This amazing little find has modern, up-to-date rooms with comfy beds, fire pits and a general vibe that I just loved.
Under Canvas Moab ($$$) – I’ve stayed in other Under Canvas locations, and this particular one lives up to the name. It’s like luxury glamping and I love it! The tents gets pretty hot though, so I’d give it a miss during the scorching summer months.
Red Cliffs Lodge ($$$) – if you’re looking for something a bit special, this could be it. Hidden down Route 128, surrounded on all sides by cliffs, perched on the shore of the Colorado River is this surprising find. The location is unmatched, the rooms have a modern twist but with a kind of wood cabin vibe, and the room patios are huge. We actually discovered this place by driving past it – then immediately booked it!
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Final Thoughts – Hiking to the White Rim
The Lathrop Trail is a wonderful way to see more of Canyonlands National Park without a four-wheel drive vehicle and with zero crowds. I loved walking on foot along the White Rim Road; a place I’d only ever seen cars and cyclists before.
The solitude on our trip was just incredible – we saw no other hikers for the entire duration. So, if challenging, beautiful, and peaceful hiking is your thing, then definitely give this one a go!
For more things to do in the national park, take a look at how we’d spend one perfect day in Canyonlands.
Have a great hike!
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