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Hegra vs Petra – Is Saudi Arabia’s Hidden City Worth It?

Scribbled by Claire   ◊   24 Aug 2024

If you’re planning a trip to Saudi Arabia, then the mysterious, hidden city of Hegra must surely be on your to-see list. However, it is inconveniently located, plus expensive to reach and stay in. So, is it worth visiting if you’ve already been to Petra? We’ve been to both, and answer this below!


The sandstone ruins of Jabal Al Ahmar in the desert near Al Ula, Saudi Arabia.

A question we get from quite a few people:

‘If I’ve already been to Petra, is it worth making the journey to Hegra?’

I asked myself that very question when we were planning our drive across Saudi Arabia. Hegra was not just ‘out of the way’, it seemed *seriously far*.

The thing is, I loved the ancient city of Petra, in Jordan. We spent three days exploring all the hiking trails on offer; it is definitely one of the most epic places we’ve ever visited across the world. Hegra, in photos, looked to be just as cool (if not even cooler). So, we decided to set off on the eight-million-hour drive (maybe a little less) to the second city of the Nabataean Kingdom in northern Saudi Arabia.

Here’s our take on whether the journey to Hegra was worth it (for some bonus information on how to organise a Hegra tour, have a look at our Hegra tour information).

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So, having visited Hegra, how did it contrast with our experience at the World Wonder of Petra?

Well, there are several things to consider when comparing the sites, so here are a few pros and cons of Hegra (when compared to Petra) to help you decide:

The carvings at Hegra’s archaeological site are unique. At Petra, the Treasury (al Khazneh) and Monastery (Ad Deir) are really intricate and elborate – like, epic levels of extraordinary. However, some of the perfectly symmetric carvings and tombs at Hegra were just mind-blowing – often less intricate, but the rocky outcrops and decorative facades are far better preserved than Petra. Plus, the vast, scorched desert background gives some of them a little more gravitas. They just appear to erupt from the ground in some cases.

Hegra has inscriptions on many of the tombs in Aramaic (a precursor to Arabic) with intimidating messages to protect the inhabitants:

“may the lord of the world curse upon anyone who disturb this tomb or open it”

These kind of inscriptions are rare at Petra.

+ Hegra has significantly less crowds than Petra. Petra can be overwhelmingly busy, which, at times, really made my experience there a little miserable. At each stop on the Hegra tour, generally there was one guide and a few tourists from the bus. It was often silent; and it was rare that you had to stand with, or listen to, other people talk. This experience can also be had at Petra too, but you’d have to hike off far off the main trail.

+ There is no animal cruelty at Hegra. Petra is known for having extremely lax policies when it comes to the welfare of the donkeys, camels and horses and we absolutely hated seeing this during our visit.

+ There are no vendors along the Hegra tour, only a smart little gift store at the waiting area where you can buy your souvenirs (I bought postcards with camels on). At Petra, there were aggressive, quite physical, sometimes even intoxicated vendors everywhere who I refused to buy anything from.

+ Hegra had no resident children around; contrastingly, the child labour situation at Petra was abysmal. There were small children under ten years old driving horse drawn carriages, others begging or offering tours.

Tombs at Hegra

 Although the archaeological site at Hegra covers a pretty large area, there is only a small zone that you have access to explore. Petra, on the other hand, is absolutely enormous.

 On the topic of exploring: you can’t really explore at Hegra at all. Each stop basically just allows you to walk around a large rock with a guide ensuring you don’t go out of bounds.

 There is no hiking at Hegra, at all. There are no trails and strict boundaries on where you can walk. This is a huge negative when comparing to the hiking trails at Petra.

 Accommodation is far more expensive around Hegra and Al Ula than Petra and Wadi Musa in Jordan.

 Hegra is in a really remote part of Saudi Arabia and is harder to get to than Wadi Musa, for Petra. However, there are buses and an international airport at Al Ula, so this isn’t exactly a big deal.

 There’s nothing at Hegra that compares to the walk through the narrow Siq at Petra, waiting for your first view of the Treasury. It’s a pure, unadulterated magical travel experience that you cannot compare to anything else.

 On the topic of the Treasury at Petra, it’s one of the most Googled film locations of all time (think Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade), and nothing that Hegra has to offer can get that much hype up!

 Hegra has very little shade when compared to Petra. Although, you’re not likely to be out in the sun for so long.

Temple at Polonnaruwa

+/- Petra is expensive, really expensive. Even when included in the Jordan Pass, it’s still eye-watering. However, Hegra is also reasonably expensive for the lesser time (2-3 hours) spent at the site. I’d say that on cost, both Petra and Hegra are equal.

+/- The scenery between the sites is too varied to decide whether one site is objectively better than another. The desert expanse around the tombs at Hegra was visually impacting and really made the carvings stand out. The mountains and hills around Petra, covered in small rock-hewn residences, is also astonishing. I can’t decide which had the better scenery!

+/- Hegra is far better for people with limited physical mobility; Petra is strenuous and great for hikers. It’s subjective as to which is better.

Petra: 1985  |  UNESCO  |  Hegra: 2008
Petra > 600  |  TOMBS  |  Hegra: 111  
Petra: 10  |  HIKING TRAILS  |  Hegra: 0 
Petra: Rose City  |  KNOWN AS  |  Hegra: Al Hijr   
Petra: 20,000  |  MAX INHABITANTS  |  Hegra: 10,000        
Petra: 5th Century BCE  |  DATES FROM  |  Hegra: 1st Century BCE
Petra: US$71  |  ONE DAY PRICE  |  Hegra: US$40


THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING PETRA   |   BEAUTIFUL PLACES IN SAUDI ARABIA

Worn, carved facades in the sandstone at Hegra, showing the strong crafting ability of the Nabataeans.
Facades | Hegra
A person stood in the sandy, desert shrubland of Jabal Ithlib.
Scenery | Hegra

If we could only visit either Hegra or Petra again, which would it be? 

We talked at length about our choice and it’s unanimous:

Petra wins.

Petra is just a different beast. Petra is a journey; Hegra is an attraction. They’re incomparable as experiences, apart from the actual carvings which are kind of similar.

Personally, not having any freedom to explore and hike around just knocked Hegra down a notch and made it feel a bit like a slightly clinical, open-air history museum. Petra felt like a multi-day odyssey, voyaging to another world (this might sound a bit over-the-top, but I loved it there despite the significant negatives mentioned above).

It is also beneficial that as more budget-minded travellers, accommodation and food is more affordable at Petra and access is easier.

Although we chose Petra, Hegra was super-cool. It’s worth visiting and when we are next around Al Ula (possibly at the end of the year), we plan to visit again. We’d still recommend it to anyone wanting to check out beautiful places in Saudi Arabia.

Two entrances to the Jabal Al Ahmar Tombs at Al Ula, near Hegra, carved into the sandstone rock.
The first stop | Hegra

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I guess this post might seem a bit pointless – like comparing two completely different sites from separate countries for no reason. The thing is though, for years, I’d seen pictures of Hegra and in my mind it was built up to be like Petra because of the visual resemblance between the sites.

It’s common for someone to ask ‘what is the best Mayan ruin’ or where has ‘the best Roman amphitheatre’, for example. For me, I asked myself – ‘is Hegra as good as Petra?’.

So, maybe comparing the two Nabataean cities has no extrinsic advantage, but I think it’s worth setting expectations for a visit to both sites. Whether it’s the blatant child labour, crowds or animal cruelty at Petra, or the lack of freedom and scope at Hegra, it’s worth knowing what you’re going to see. Especially since Hegra is so far away from anywhere else in Saudi Arabia.

Hegra is advertised by the Saudi government as the ultimate tourist experience in Saudi Arabia, and while it is most certainly worth your time – just do not expect to feel the same as at Petra.

Overall, to answer my question above – we recommend Hegra and Petra and hope you experience both sites.

Have a fantastic day!


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2 Comments

  1. Lovely article. I’ve just visited Hegel. There are lots of other things to see and do around AlUla, like the Dasan experience, Sharaan area, Asra valley, the old Town and Elephant Rock. Does the area around Petra also have other things to do?

    1. Hi Sarath,

      Thanks for your comment.

      There’s not as many nearby attractions surrounding Petra as there are at AlUla. However there’s so much more contained within Petra it makes up for this – there’s also Little Petra as a nearby bonus!

      The town of Wadi Musa, adjacent to Petra, is worth walking around, too. The main nearby highlights are further away though, like Aqaba, Wadi Rum and the Dana Biosphere Reserve.

      Hope this helps!

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