The Nan Loop: A One-Week Road Trip Through Thailand’s Remote Far North

Scribbled by Claire ⬩ 22 Jul 2026

The Nan Loop is one of northern Thailand’s most spectacular drives, yet few foreign tourists know it even exists. Here’s a one-week road trip itinerary through Nan, Phayao, Lampang, and beyond, covering the best food, stops, and hotels to show why this corner of the country might just ruin the rest of Thailand for you!

A row of monk figurines wearing orange robes at a temple in Nan, Thailand.

The Nan Loop is one of Thailand’s greatest driving itineraries, hidden within the country’s northernmost provinces, tucked up in the hills along the border with northern Laos.

This slightly mysterious region was on my to-visit list for a long time because I’m a member of loads of biker groups, which absolutely *rave* about the place. I mean, they really go on and on and on.

All of them mentioned astonishing roads, vast vistas, small town vibes and few foreign tourists.

My interest was thoroughly piqued.

So, on our recent one-month trip to Chiang Mai, we set out to drive the ‘Nan Loop’. I don’t think it’s actually called this, or that it really even has a set route, as such. So, this itinerary covers what we did over 8-9 days (with a few additions from previous trips thrown in too for good measure).

I’ll say it right now – it was a smashing road trip. There are few things I love more than traversing rogue, rural Thailand and exploring the relatively unvisited parts of this (often over-touristed) country. Some of these roads have even been named Thailand’s most beautiful and are all meticulously maintained.

Curiously, one of my strongest memories was going pretty much straight from Nan to the tourist-hell-mecca of Koh Samui. I sat on that island, desperately wishing I could be sat back by Phayao’s lake at sunset, exploring Lampang’s floating temples at sunrise, or listening to local live music at Nan’s exceptional night market.

There really is nothing more jarring than swapping the idyllic solitude of northern Thailand for the foul, noisy, drunken-sexpat-mess in parts of southern Thailand.

So, if you’re looking for something just a little different and away from the crowds, the Nan Loop could be the ideal trip for you. This route might just alter the way you see Thailand as a tourist destination!

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A Quick About This Itinerary

⬩ This itinerary requires private transport – either a car or a motorbike. We’ve written more about the pros and cons of each further down. There are no train lines around this region of Thailand (plus this area really works well as a road trip).

⬩ It’s flexible in terms of length – you can easily spend more (or less) time depending on your schedule.

⬩ The route does have a few longer driving days, three/four-hours plus. (Although I guess it depends on what you consider a long driving day to be).

⬩ The accommodation quality along the trip is good. In most places, you’re not going to find super crazy luxury resorts, but the hotel options are clean, modern, safe, and comfortable.

⬩ There is very little traffic along the route outside of Chiang Mai. It’s very peaceful, for the most part.

⬩ The itinerary starts in Chiang Mai but, as long as you have a car, you could begin in Sukhothai or Chiang Rai, for example, if that’s where you’re at!

⬩ The route is pretty temple heavy, because they’re a big part of what there is to see out in northern Thailand. You can skip any that don’t sound like your cup of tea, though (although I think they’re all magnificent in their own distinctive way).

An itinerary map for Northern Thailand, showing the main locations with solid red lines denoting the routes and dotted red lines showing optional locations. — Artist’s impression. Dotted lines are optional extras.

Getting Around on the Loop

Our Journey

We drove the Nan loop with a rental car over eight days, immediately after we rode the Mae Hong Son loop on a bike across six days.

The car was the best option for us since Nan is the longer of the two routes and we don’t love being on a bike for whole days over an extended period (I think we’re getting too old for it or something!). Plus, it’s nice to mix it up and we love any kind of road trip.

By Motorbike/Scooter

This route is magnificent on a motorbike!

However, I’d only recommend you traverse the Nan loop by motorbike/scooter if you actually know how to ride one. The roads are beautiful the entire way, but some are very steep and curvy. The camber could be really easy to misjudge in sections if you’re not experienced. Things to know:

⬩ There are some quite long days (like four-hours plus) which, on a motorbike, can be absolutely shattering.

⬩ The temperatures in the winter months can be quite chilly, too (think lows of 10 degrees C or below).

⬩ It’s quite hilly, so I’d highly recommend hiring a decent-sized bike. A Honda Scoopy isn’t going to get you far. At the absolute minimum, choose a 150-160cc for one person. (We used a 300cc Honda Forza 300i on the Mae Hong Son Loop for two people with luggage, so that would be perfect for this route).

⬩ A geared bike is better than an automatic because of the hills. Engine braking means you’ll be less likely to destroy your brakes on those steep declines. However, we did the Mae Hong Son with an automatic which was fine (and I think small parts of that route are steeper). Just be aware of your brakes.

⬩ It’s worth having proper gear if you ride this route – buy your own well-fitting helmet, bring boots, gloves, and wear some kind of simple armour (at the minimum). This is definitely not a flip flops and shorts kind of place.

If you’ve done the Mae Hong Son Loop, I’d say that this route is equivalent in terms of difficulty (if you include the ride to Ban Jabo and Ban Rak Thai around Mae Hong Son).

Insurance is important if you’re going to ride a route like this. If you don’t already have your policy sorted, check out our post on the best companies that cover scooter/motorbike riders (there are even companies that will cover you if you don’t have a valid license).

We highly recommend Cat Motors in Chiang Mai who we’ve rented from previously and loved (including our perfect Honda Forza 300i for the Mae Hong Son route). They have immaculate bikes and scooters of all styles and engine sizes. Check them out for your Chiang Mai options.

A helmet wearing motorcyclist's reflection in the right wing mirror of their bike.

By Rental Car

This the most comfortable, affordable choice for groups of travellers, families, and anyone without a motorbike license (or people like us who just could not be bothered to ride a motorbike due to the distances).

Renting a car in Thailand is straightforward, particularly from Chiang Mai Airport. It usually costs around 600-1500 baht a day, depending on season and size of vehicle. Petrol is typically less than 40 baht a litre and there are gas stations everywhere.

Driving in Thailand is genuinely so relaxing – if you can drive in Europe or the USA, you can easily do it here.

We rented a small SUV because we’d read about the inclines, but I don’t think you really need one unless you’re going to go seriously off-piste. There was only one place we were happy to have a more powerful car and that was well off the main route (I’ve mentioned it specifically further down).

Check out our detailed driving guide for Thailand for more general information related to road safety, driving etiquette, license requirements, and all the other important things you should know before you go.

We recommend renting with Discover Cars. They’re our go-to for all our international car rentals (more than one-hundred now!) and we love their comprehensive insurance policy and quick responses for queries. We love them.

A rental SUV parked at the car park of Lampang's Floating Temples in Thailand. — Our rental: spot the floating temples in the distance

Rural fields with a mountain backdrop around Wat Sri Mongkol in Pua. — Rural roads

FIRST TIME VISITOR TO THAILAND?

If this is your first ever trip to Thailand, have a look at our monster-guide to visiting this beautiful country, which includes tips on money, food, transport, logistics, culture and more.

Also, if you’re landing in Bangkok, consider having a look at our overly ambitious one-day Bangkok itinerary (we live here, so we know it well).

Or check out our massive Thai island rundown – to help you choose your ideal one!
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RELATED POST | A SOUTHERN THAILAND ITINERARY

Day 1: Chiang Mai to Lampang

Direct distance: Chiang Mai to Lampang: 1.5 hours, 105 kilometres

The first day of this itinerary is a relatively short one. This means you can have a leisurely trip to pick up your rental car, grab breakfast in Chiang Mai and not be in any kind of rush.

Midday Stop: Lamphun

The first stop, just south of Chiang Mai on the way to Lampang, is the town of Lamphun. Here, there are a few places to check out, as well as some nice lunch spots.

Wat Phra That Haripunchai

This spectacular first-class royal temple, dating from the 9^th century, is known for its lanterns.

It’s particularly attractive during the Lamphun Lantern Festival, ending at Loy Krathong, where the lanterns are out in full force. The festival runs from September to November (finishing at Yi Peng/Loy Krathong).

Even if you visit outside of lantern season (we visited just as it ended), the impressive temple complex is still worth it. Take a little wander along the adjacent river, too, it’s a nice place to chill.

Entry fee: 50 baht

A large rooster statue underneath rows of colourful lanterns at Wat Pra That haripunchai. — Wat Phra That Haripunchai

An ornate red and gold umbrella near a golden chedi at the centre of a temple near Lamphun, Thailand. — Wat Phra That Haripunchai

Lunch Suggestions

Terracotta Garden at Lamphun is a super pretty café/restaurant set in a giant garden with, you guessed it, terracotta sculptures all over the place! The high-end Thai food and beverages are magnificent, too, so you’re not just stopping by for the Khmer-style artistry. Open 9am-6pm (9am-12am Wednesdays).

For a more local (and affordable) option, check out the famous Longan Noodles Restaurant across the bridge from the temple. It’s popular for a reason (have your Google Translate ready). Open 9am-3.30pm daily.

Wat Phra That Lampang Luang

This older temple (apparently originating in the 13th century), located closer to Lampang, is a worthy stop to see the wooden Lanna-style viharn and inside murals (don’t forget to look up). It’s supposed to be one of the oldest original wooden temples in the country!

The complex isn’t huge, but it is distinctive and has loads of bovine statues – it’s a significant temple for anyone born in the year of the ox.

Avoid the cart and horse rides outside, the animals didn’t look overly well-looked after (to me).

Entry fee: 40 baht

If you’ve got some spare time after visiting Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, consider popping into the Lampang Geology Museum – it’s fantastic for kids, full of dinosaurs, and is only a ten-minute drive away. (If it’s one thing Thailand does really well apart from Buddhist temples, it’s quirky museums, sometimes in the middle of nowhere).

A faded ancient mural of a tree within a temple near Lampang. — Wat Phra That Lampang Luang

Stairs leading up to the ornate stone-carved entry gate of a temple in Lampang, Thailand. — Wat Phra That Lampang Luang

Dinner and Evening Options

We’d recommend one of the below options for your dinners in Lampang – and if you’re looking for a few later-evening drinks, visit Bourbon.yard (also mentioned below).

Aroy One Baht – very popular budget food place that obviously does not cost one baht, but is still great value. It’s always packed, so be prepared to wait (service is lightning fast, though, so you won’t hanging around long). This legendary spot in a beautiful old building has been around forever – and you can get a portion of boiled rice for one-baht, so the name is not actually misleading! There are a bunch of decent, standard veggie options.

Long Jim New York Pizza – I’ll eat pizza anywhere (I am literally an expert in Thai pizza now) and this one did not disappoint. If you want proper pizza with proper toppings in Lampang – this is, by far, your best spot. I had the Greek because decent feta cheese is a rarity in Thailand – didn’t let me down.

Riverside Restaurant Lampang – nice restaurant, popular with tourists for pretty river views and live music during the evenings. I have no strong feelings about this one, but everyone else loves it.

WM Indian Restaurant – just a simple, decent Indian restaurant for when you really, really just need a proper daal and nothing else will do (this affliction seems to happen to me very often. Maybe it’s because I’m British?). They’ll deliver, too.

Bourbon.yard – classy, vibey little bar with excellent drinks, including some outstanding craft beers and wines, plus live music. This place is my fave – craft beer is having a bit of a renaissance right now in Thailand and I’m here for it. Open until midnight.

Kad Kongta Night Market – as with most Thai towns, there’s a weekend night market that’s ideal for an affordable meal and a wander. It has all the staples and is also a nice way to see some of the old architecture of the area lit up in the evening. Sat/Sun only.

Quick shout out to Papacraft who have a lovely little riverside garden with loads of seating, a full-on ceramics and crafts workshop, and also do excellent coffee and cake. Open Fri-Sun.

Views along the river in Lampang, with trees on the riverbanks reflected in the still waters. — Lampang riverside

Where to Stay

When we look for accommodation along routes like this, all we really need is a decent, secure, clean room and some guaranteed parking. In Lampang, we chose the Space Hotel, which matched all of the above requirements (the rooms were really modern and clean, plus the car park was large).

It was kind of like a Hop Inn, with way nicer decor. (Hop Inns are like Thailand’s version of a really basic Travelodge-type motel with an incredible price point – they’re always my emergency go-to if I’m booking last minute and places are all booked up. I even have a Hop Inn loyalty account).

I’d book the Space Hotel again, or stay at the Hop Inn down the road!

Take a look at The Space Hotel Lampang and also at the Hop Inn to see which one you prefer!

Bedroom at the space hotel with simple, clean decorations including a double mattress, armchair and foot rest. — Space Hotel

Day 2: Around Lampang

Morning: Lampang’s Floating Temples

Get up early and head to Lampang’s most remarkable spot – Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat, also referred to as Lampang’s floating temples. These are some of the most curious structures we’ve seen in Thailand (which is saying something since I’ve visited many hundreds of temples).

They’re quite small, perched atop an improbable sawtooth mountain arete, and it’s hard to fathom how they got there in the first place. Be aware that this temple has (apparently) 700 steps, and that’s after you get a truck to take you halfway up! It’s all worth it for the incredible views, though.

I’m not the biggest fan of stairs, crowds, or hot temperatures, so we arrived about fifteen minutes after the opening time of 07:30 and were the first to get to the top of the hill (I think it took us about 15 minutes, maybe less).

Entry fee: 60 baht for the return truck drive, 30 baht for temple maintenance, 200 baht for entry (290 baht total)
Open from 07:30

So, these millions of stairs sound like a lot. However, it was actually really easy to get to the top and I’m not really athletic, if you get what I mean. All the steps are evenly spaced and metal, with little spots to rest if you need to. I genuinely think anyone can do this if their knees work okay.

A golden topped chedi atop the top of a staircase at a mountain temple in Thailand. — Floating temples

Lunch Break

If you need a quick break nearby the temple after descending all the stairs, stop at Esketit Coffee – it’s cute, comfy, and has decent drinks.

Or, just a bit further north of the floating temples is AK-KA-RA Coffee & Craft which is a wonderful little bakery and café that donates to the locate community.

Afternoon: Cultural Fun

Back in Lampang, check out the Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum, which is super cute and makes iconic ceramics, specifically with chickens on (I, inexplicably, now own two ceramic bowls decorated with chickens in my house – it’s so good for affordable souvenirs).

They put on short tours throughout the day, mostly hourly (we were the only people on ours) showing how the ceramics were historically prepared and made, plus how they’re made now. You can also paint your own souvenir and they’ll post it to you anywhere in Thailand after it’s fired.

They also have the world’s smallest ceramic chicken bowl (it’s 5mm in diameter!).

If you’re wondering why we’d recommend a trip to a random ceramics museum – it’s honestly really fun, interactive and interesting.

Entry and tour: 100 baht

Afternoon Alternatives

If you just cannot get behind learning about ceramic chicken bowls (although that would be a major error), check out a museum or two:

Ban Pong Nak Museum – a European-style house previously used as a royal residence that now houses WWII artifacts across two floors.
Museum Lampang – small, free museum about the history of Lampang, surprisingly child-friendly, interactive with English signs. Worth an hour.
Mae Moh Mine Museum: museum about mining! (30 mins outside of Lampang – looks great for kids).

A worker at Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum painting bowls by hand with a brush and ceramic paint. — Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum

Sculptures in the garden of a pottery museum in Lampang. — Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum

Evening in Lampang

Pop via the pretty Wat Chiang Rai (it glows beautifully at sunset) and take a little wander by the river.

If you’re visiting on a Friday, maybe consider wandering along the Lampang Cultural Street Market. Open Fridays from 4pm-7.30pm.

Choose one of the many places on the restaurant list above for dinner.

Ornate Thai Buddhist temple architecture in the early evening light in Lampang. — Wat Chiang Rai

Bonus Optional Day: Si Satchanalai

If you have a spare day, consider going on an epic road trip to Si Satchanalai Historical Park.

This unreasonably impressive and (entirely unvisited) historical park is around a 2.5-hour drive south of Lampang, so it’s a bit of a trek, but totally worth it in my opinion!

There’s an entire historical park, along with a load of rogue things to explore outside, like mysterious stupas concealed in thick jungle that nobody visits and Buddhist temples with Khmer-style ruins in them. It’s an amazing day out (one of my favourites from the past year).
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Ornate elephant statues along the base of the ruins of Wat Chang Lom. — Si Satchanalai

Ancient ruins among the trees at Si Satchanalai National Park in Thailand. — Si Satchanalai

Day 3: Lampang to Nan (via Phrae)

Direct distance: Lampang to Nan: 3.5 hours, 220 kilometres

This day is a slightly longer drive from Lampang, through Phrae, to Nan. Phrae is a town (and province) exactly halfway between Lampang and Nan, known historically for its teak wood trading.

We decided not to stop overnight in the provincial capital of Phrae. Mainly, this was because we had places to be (a rare occurrence) and we don’t mind longer drives (in fact, we love them). Phrae was also the area we found the least to do (that doesn’t mean there’s nothing, though).

If you want to spend a night in the town of Phrae, definitely do it – we will be, next time. If we’d opted to ride a motorbike instead of drive, we would have stopped here to reduce the daily distances.

Anyway, we passed on through, (mostly) following highways 11 and 101, stopping at a few places along the way.

Tip: if you’re riding a bike, cut down on your time on Highway 11 and 101 by taking route 1023 to Phrae instead (anything is better than Thailand’s busy highways when you’re on two wheels). We didn’t, but only because we were in a car and wanted to visit Wat Phra That Suthon Mongkhon Khiri (which is just off the 11).

We also took an incredibly rogue route to Nan, avoiding many of the main roads. This led us through the mountains, which took a long time and were so steep and crazy fun. I’ll detail the route below just in case you love to drive narrow, scenic roads like us. If not, you can whizz on by using the main highways like a normal person.

Green hills in the countryside around Phrae. — Random hillsides somewhere

Early Morning: Wat Phra That Doi Phra Chan

Before leaving Lampang, don’t miss one of my all-time favourite Thai temples.

It’s part Japanese – part typical Thai, but with added hilltop views. Think ‘Totoro meets Buddha surrounded by kitsune foxes‘ kinda vibes.

We’re still not sure if this temple is better during morning or evening. We went very early in the morning, hoping to see those cool, inverted cloud views across the countryside. Instead, it was misty and foggy, which was a different kind of awesome.

I think it would be pretty magical at sunset, too, so if you want to visit the previous evening instead, that could work. However, since it’s sort of on the route out, we visited in the morning. It was incredible and almost entirely empty.

Don’t forget to explore the connected temple at the bottom of the hill, either. It’s got an unreal, icy-blue, glass-like Buddha that I was entirely enamoured by.

A statue of Totoro in the gardens of a temple in Thailand stood beside purple flowers with a large stone Buddha statue in the background. — Wat Phra That Doi Phra Chan

A set of red Torii gates in the moody grounds of a temple in Thailand. — Wat Phra That Doi Phra Chan

Morning/Afternoon: Passing through Phrae

There are a few things to do on your way through Phrae:

ไส้อั่วเผาเตาหลวง – nice roadside stop from souvenirs and food, known specifically for its northern Thai Sausage and other northern dishes.

Khum Vongburi Museum – historical museum set in stunning pink teak architecture.

Wat Chom Sawan – a wooden-style Burmese temple. Worth a quick stop off if you want to stretch your legs.

Khum Chao Luang – free museum about the history of Phrae in an old Lanna building that was occupied by the last ruler of the region – another good option for leg-stretching.

Phae Muang Phi – interesting rock features, but not overly spectacular if you’ve been to, like, Utah or anything similar. Probably not worth the entry fee of 100 baht.

Wat Phra That Suthon Mongkhon Khiri is a large temple complex that’s literally just off the 11 and could easily take 30-minutes of your time. I loved the very distinctive-looking reclining Buddha with the engraved feet. If you’re into temples and need a break, check it out.

Interesting rock formations shaped like oyster mushrooms at Phae Mueang Phi near Lampang. — Phae Muang Phi

A winding tree-lined road through the Thai countryside in Nan province.

Going Rogue: Sao Din Na Noi

Sao Din Na Noi is similar to the rock formation of Phae Muang Phi, above, but much more fun, in my opinion (plus it’s free). It’s really strange to see these orange sandstone rock sculptures in Thailand, rather than Utah!

It’s kind of out of the way, so we took the most direct (but not fastest) route via the 1134, along the 1342, before heading on the 4010 and then the 1026 going north to Sao Din Na Noi. Then we headed back up the 1026 towards the main 101 Highway towards Nan. It was seriously steep, narrow and wiggly, but always paved. Our small SUV coped absolutely fine (but I was concerned for a few moments).

Optional overnight: further east along route 1083 from Sao Din Na Noi is an epic viewpoint called Doi Samer Dao. It’s up in the hills, you can camp overnight and apparently see sunrise and sunset in the same place. If you love camping and stargazing and want to spend a night here instead of (or as well as) in Nan, it looks amazing and costs 390 baht to hire a tent. I was scared about it being too cold in December when we visited, but I’m ridiculously sensitive to extreme temperatures (you’d probably be fine).

Main road stop: if you decide to stay on the main 101 highway and follow the road from Phrae straight up to Nan, check Tham Pha Nang Khoi Phrae. It’s this crazy multi-coloured, lit up cave with free entry, just off the road. Take a jumper, it’s chilly.

A person stood below sharp rock formations in Sao Din Na Nao national park, dwarfed by their size. — Such cool formations at Sao Din Na Noi

Dinner and Evening Options in Nan

What time you arrive to check in to your hotel will dictate your evening plans.

We reached Nan after dark, shattered from our unnecessarily long drive (we stop a lot, take stupid routes, and are slow). For convenience, we decided on take away food (and I know you’ll be surprised to hear that it was pizza). Below are the options we liked best in Nan (along with the pizza) :

Nan Artisan Pizza: smashing pizzas with perfect dough and proper imported Italian ingredients. It was above and beyond anything I expected in this remote corner of Thailand. It’s is an ideal option if you’re looking for a change from Thai food.

LYKKE Brunch and Wine Bar: elegant little spot with a pretty garden just out of town, located on the way to one of Nan’s better known temples (that’s actually how we found it). Grab a dessert, coffee, or brunch – it’s worth it.

Huean Phukha: vast northern Thai menu with loads of interesting stuff (ant’s eggs, anyone?). Personally, I liked it for their various dedicated veggie menu options and the food was ridiculously good. It’s very busy, so come prepared to wait.

Brooklyn Coffee and Jazz Bar: I did not expect to find anywhere like this in Nan, but maybe I’m just naive? (It would be far more at home in Bangkok). Pop in for a wonderful bar/cafe with comfortable, artsy, jazzy vibes. Go for coffee during the day, or wine in the evening!

Nan’s night market is one of my favourites. It’s on Fri-Sun from around 4pm and, although it isn’t the biggest, I loved how everyone sat around on mats and listened to music, right next to the beautifully lit up Wat Phumin. It was very chill: crowded but not stressful. Also, I found baked potatoes with cheese which is one of my all-time favourite foods (I’m from England, so it’s not my fault I’m like this).

A selection of strawberry sponge cheesecake deserts for sale at the nan Night Market. — You know I bought one of these

A baked potato at Nan Night Market, stuffed with cheese and served in a foil and paper packet. — You can’t make it look good, but it was obviously incredible (wrapped in somebody’s homework, I think)

Where to Stay

We chose the Emmaline Hotel in Nan.

I loved this spot (it’s probably my favourite hotel on this whole itinerary). The place was clean, modern, had a great price-point, good parking, decent showers, Netflix, and lovely, thoughtful staff (they brought my pizza delivery up so it didn’t get cold <3). The location was only a few-minutes walk to the night market, too.

We’d definitely recommend it for your stay in Nan.

There were a few other places we considered, such as the Nantrungjai Boutique Hotel and the Nan Seasons Boutique Resort, but they were a little out of town and we wanted to be able to walk around the town and market from our accommodation.

Take a peek at the Emmaline to see if it’s for you, or check out the lovely Nantrungjai Boutique Hotel or Nan Seasons Boutique Resort for some other options.

A bedroom with smart TV, double bed and desk, at the Emmaline hotel in Nan, Thailand. — Emmaline Hotel

Day 4: Nan

Nan is a region that was historically separate and independent from Siam until it was later associated with the Sukhothai Kingdom. This means it’s pretty unique, as Thai provinces go.

So, visit the provincial museum, check out the temples, and explore the countryside – I found it all felt a little different up here.

Ornate temple architecture with gold leaf design at Wat Phumin, Nan. — Wat Phumin, Nan

Morning: Cultural Nan

First, we’d recommend a visit to the beautiful Lanna-style Nan National Museum. This was (probably) our favourite ‘provincial’ museum of the trip (honestly, I’m not really a museumy person as I have the attention span of a gnat, but somehow managed to stay engaged throughout). Open 9am-4pm, shut on Mon/Tues, entry: 120 baht.

While you’re wandering around Nan’s city centre, it’s definitely worth checking out the major draw that is the 16th century Wat Phumin and its famous murals, plus several lesser-visited temples: Wat Sri Pan Ton (a golden temple) and Wat Ming Mueang (a very intricate white temple). They’re all free entry and within a ten-minute walk of each other and the museum.

A ten-minute walk north will lead you to the Nan Old City Walls. I didn’t think this was all that exciting so don’t go out of your way unless you’re super keen and have loads of spare time.

Another stop a bit further to the north is the Nan Noble House, which is a preserved, 150-year-old Lanna teak home and now museum, with lots of artifacts and fabrics showing off the lifestyle of the time. The lady that runs it is lovely but be aware it’s a challenge if you don’t speak Thai. It’s around 2.5 kilometres from the temples and museum, so we’d recommend driving. Entry: 50 baht.

Eat: Grab some Khao Soi for lunch at Khao Soi Khun Yai Nan ร้านข้าวซอยคุณยายน่าน. It’s right next to the Nan temples. We didn’t eat here (because veggie, you know), but it came highly recommended for good northern Thai food from someone who worked at at our hotel. Apparently, Khao Soi in Nan is a little different to Chiang Mai’s version!

Nan traditional boat racing: the region is known for its traditional long boat racing, which you can see during the Buddhist Thot Kathin ceremony which usually occurs during November. The boats are really, really long and decorated like nagas – there are boats on display in the golden Wat Sri Pan Ton and the silver Wat Ming Mueang, mentioned above.

Gleaming white temple architecture at the Thai Buddhist temple of Wat Ming Mueang. — Wat Ming Mueang

Ornate golden exterior of a Thai Buddhist temple at Wat Sri Pan Ton. — Wat Sri Pan Ton

Afternoon: Art and Rabbits (not real ones, before you get too excited)

Nan Riverside Art Gallery

This afternoon, take a drive to the impressive Nan Riverside Art Gallery, a private art studio set up by Professor Winai Prabripu. On display is Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn’s personal artwork, alongside his, as well as a revolving exhibition of other local artists’ works. It’s incredible value. There are also some murals displayed from Wat Phumin.

The lovely contemporary artwork here makes me think, to my untrained eyes, of things I’ve seen in the Tate Modern (remember, I’m very uneducated in the ways of art, but love it nonetheless). The space is really beautifully curated and it was a total surprise to find something as lovely as this in rural Nan.

The cafe is supposed to have decent food and drinks, too, but we didn’t get anything during our visit.

Entry: 20 baht including a free postcard! Open 8:30am – 5:00pm, closed Wed.

Wat Phra That Chae Haeng Phra Aram Luang

After a chill wander around the art, head to one of Nan’s most important and sacred temples – Wat Phra That Chae Haeng Phra Aram Luang. This fourteenth century Lanna-style Royal temple is all about enshrined Buddha relics, and rabbits.

It’s a huge complex, with a massive reclining Buddha within its own viharn, a huge golden stupa, and just so, so many rabbits. I’m not kidding – key rings, giant statues, rabbit candles, sculptures, offerings, toys (not the dodgy ones) – everything rabbit. It’s supposed to be especially auspicious for people born in the Chinese zodiac year of the rabbit (and you can tell).

Free entry.

A rabbit statue adorned with a golden necklace with bell. — A bling rabbit

A duo of angry looking rabbit statues at a Thai Buddhist Temple in Nan. — An angry rabbit

Sunset in Nan

Before sunset (between 5.37pm and and 6.58pm depending the time of year), pop up to the hilltop Wat Phra That Khao Noi. This temple’s main appeal is the nine-metre tall golden walking Buddha that overlooks the city.

It’s really popular in the evening due to the hillside panoramic views. We visited first thing in the morning and it was really cloudy and hazy, so I’d recommend going in the evening instead (we also went back in the later afternoon which is when the picture below was taken).

I’d like to mention that there’s a man up there in the early mornings who made the best coconut smoothie I’ve ever had in my life for 30 baht (went back for seconds), but I don’t think he’s there in the evening. This means you may have to choose between having a life-changing smoothie moment, or the best view. It’s a tricky one.

For the rest of the evening, check out the market if you didn’t get time yesterday, or grab some top-notch northern Thai food from Huean Phukha.

A nine-metre tall golden Buddha statue in the walking pose, standing above the town of nan in Thailand. — Wat Phra That Khao Noi

Day 5: Nan to Sapan

Direct distance: Nan to Sapan: 2.5 hours, 95 kilometres

This driving day takes you across some of Nan’s best roads, avoiding the highways, following the impeccably-made mountain routes to Sapan, a tiny but popular village enclosed in rural Nan’s moody mountains.

This is the drive that all the bikers talk about, one that traverses Doi Phu Kha.

The Route

The total distance is only around 95 kilometres, but the roads are wiggly and not particularly fast, plus there are a bunch of stop-offs along the way.

From Nan, head out north on route 1169 and, at the end of the road, take the left at the junction, staying on the 1169.

At the end of the 1169, head east on the 1081, which you stay on until you reach the junction adjacent to Sapan (the 1081 is colloquially named Thailand’s most beautiful road). This route is the one that Google Maps usually shows as the fastest and takes around 2.5 hours.

We’ve put this route on the Google Map below, so don’t worry about following my words here!

Motion sickness: I’ve heard about people getting car sick on these roads, but I didn’t think they were bad at all. (For reference, I sometimes get get car sick when navigating in Dubai because of the constant number of lane changes).

A long boat in Nan with a dragon's head. — A Nan Riverboat

Stops Along the Way

Along the route, there are a bunch of stops at various viewpoints and cafes (some more worthwhile than others). Below are the ones we did in order (or chose not to, with reasons):

1. Bali Nan Viewpoint & Cafe – this one we had a bit of a look at but it was way too Instagram-tastic and tourist-trap looking for our tastes (anywhere with a paid spot to take a photo is usually a no-go for us). Plus, you know, it’s Thailand, not Bali. So, we bypassed it.

2. Bamboo Seed Restaurant – another that we skipped, but only because we didn’t need to eat. It’s highly recommended, though, if you need sustenance along the route.

3. Umong Nan (Kam Pu Joo Cafe) – this one is another paid photo location alongside a cafe. This sort of thing is just not my jam, at all, but Thai people genuinely love this stuff, so go check it out – they even have a professional photographer there! The cafe is really lovely, though, with beautiful views.

4. I LOVE Viewpoint – this is a sharp hairpin bend, but not overly exciting. The drive towards the viewpoint is arguably more beautiful, following along a panoramic raised road with vast views on both sides.

5. Street Number 3 – this spot is hilarious (the road is kind of shaped like a ‘3’). It’s not exactly extraordinary, but it’s really taken off with Thai domestic tourism and is always totally packed. There are even police stationed there to make sure people park along the roadside properly! The area is lined with tourists doing photoshoots and honestly, with the hype, you’d think people were waiting to see wild elephants or tigers just around the corner.

Usually I’d hate this sort of thing, but it’s one of the most entertaining places I’ve sat and people-watched for a long time. It’s extraordinary.

A group of males posing for photographs at the Street Number 3 viewpoint along the Nan Loop. — Cracking up at the photoshoots at Street Number 3

6. Zero Curve Viewpoint – this spot is average, so if the car space is full, don’t get stressed about missing it. It’s worth stopping if you need a quick rest or a beverage.

7. KM 48 Viewpoint – same as above, nothing special.

8. Tortuous Road Viewpoint – this one I liked. The view is pretty cool and you can see the road in the distance carving its way through the jungly forests. If you’re riding a motorbike, be careful where you park because it’s a mildly steep, gravelly hill and we saw a bike fall onto a car. It was a whole drama.

Empty road running through the Thai countryside at the Tortuous Road viewpoint. — Tortuous Road Viewpoint

Bo Kluea

Just before reaching Sapan, stop off at the Sin Thao Rock Salt Pond at Bo Kluea (Bo Kluea actually means ‘salt well’ or ‘salt pit’ in Thai).

This ancient process has been in continuous production for centuries (I read 800 years) and was an incredibly valuable trade back in the day, particularly with China.

This popular spot is free to visit and the residents are happy to show you exactly how the salt water is drawn from the pit well and processed in metal buckets with fire. I was skeptical about how interesting it would be (always the cynic) but it was cool. It unexpectedly made me feel nostalgic for the outdoors in Utah (I think it was just the wood-burny, campfire smell, though).

The well man let me taste the water he’d drawn directly from the ground and it was kind of like the sea, but more salty and without the seaweedy flavour. There are loads of very affordable products for sale here, like soaps and crunchy salt (I have way too much salt now), plus we got decent coffees and some interesting, indescribable (vegan) snacks that we’ve seen nowhere else.

If you go out on the bridge behind the fire processing huts, there are giant metal bowls being rinsed cleverly in the semi-dammed river using the resulting rapids. We also saw a huge school of fish in the shallows.

Be careful when parking – there’s not that much room, so be considerate.

Open: 7am – 6pm, entry: free

Timing tip: if you’re running late on time, the Sin Thao salt place at Bo Kluea is actually directly on the way to your next day’s destination of Pua. So, you could always bypass it today and visit first thing tomorrow morning instead (this is actually easier for parking).

Salt water being heated above a wood furnace at Sin Thao Rock Salt Factory, to dry off the water, leaving salt for collection — Salt preparation

A school of fish swimming in the river water at Bo Kluea. — Fish in the river

Afternoon: Sapan

This is your end goal for today – the hilly little village of Sapan.

It is full of eco-style, mountainside huts and resorts, all offering magnificent views of the surrounding terrain. It’s become a very popular stop for Thai tourists who want to see the inverted clouds at sunrise.

Note: we didn’t actually stay in Sapan (although we wanted to). This is because we left last minute in high season and nowhere we wanted to stay had rooms left. This meant we did two nights in Pua instead, so drove into Sapan from there, which was fine for us. However, we’d highly recommend you stay in Sapan if you can (and book your accommodation early).

Sapan Waterfall

On your way into the village, stop off at Sapan Waterfall.

It’s quite an easy walk to a few cascades (there are a bunch of steps but nothing extreme), including a really pretty double waterfall at the furthest end. It’s one of my favourite little waterfall hikes in Thailand, actually!

Sapan waterfall is a really nice stop to stretch your legs properly after a long drive and you can also swim there (if the waters are calm). We visited in the dry season in the morning when the hike was empty and the waters blue. It took us around 20 minutes to reach the furthest fall, so I’m guessing it was around half a kilometre long.

Rolling green, forested hills surrounding the Thai village of Sapan. — Sapan

Yud Vela Cafe and Wat Sapan

This hillside cafe and the temple are right next to each other, so it makes sense to visit together.

They both have crazy views of the surrounding terrain and the cafe is Instagram-tastic, but also really quite pleasant. It’s chocker with Thai tourists all day and they love to take pictures and pose, so it’s a cracking environment to people watch! We stayed there for a few hours (although the weather wasn’t playing ball with us so I don’t have the best photos).

Wat Sapan next door is not overly stand-out as temples go, but is worth a quick wander around while there.

The road up to the cafe is steep and the turn near the end is sharp, but any car can do it (there’s even a car park attendant who can help you park).

The cafe opens from 6.30am, so you can visit in the morning if it’s too late in the day after you’ve finished hiking to the waterfall.

A person at at a hillside cafe, enjoying the views from above Sapan village. — Yud Vela Cafe

Where to Stay in Sapan

So, we didn’t stay in Sapan, but these were the places were tempted with:

Say Love Baan Sapan – this spot has easy road access, incredible reviews and is centrally located right in the middle of the village. The rooms are cute little floating huts and it’s my first choice in Sapan. They are always sold out and I think they release their booking windows sporadically, so check well-ahead of your dates.

Whispering Mok at Sapan – this little place is the cutest, with modern A-frame rooms overlooking the valley. I love the look of it.

Sapan Dee View – simple huts right in the centre of the village with excellent reviews and comfy-looking rooms.

Alternative Accommodation Option

There’s an alternative here – and that is to stay in Bo Kluea, nearby the Salt village.

I didn’t realise when I was planning that there was some incredible properties out there (bit short-sighted of me not to check). When we were there, I spotted a few particular ones and looked them up:

Phukananan Resort Nan – crazy Bali-like bamboo-style architecture, right next to the salt mines (so you can walk). It’s facing the river and rice fields and looks magnificent.

Ikigawa Home – cute, modern, family-run domes and huts right by the river. This place has amazing reviews and looks magic – it’s probably the one I’d go for.

Take a look at the properties in and around Sapan, or the inexplicably fun-looking options in Bo Kluea!

A river heron perched on a rock by the side of the river at Bo Kluea. — Bird at Bo Kluea next to the salt pans

Day 6: Sapan to Pua

Direct distance: Sapan to Pua: 1 hour, 37 kilometres

Today, the route heads west out of Sapan towards Pua.

It passes the salt mine mentioned above and traverses the super scenic Route 1256. This twisty road is one of my favourites in the area because it really feels like it’s up in the clouds. There are a few stops along the way, but mostly it’s a peaceful, wiggly drive through national park forests.

Ensure to stop at the Phu Kha Viewpoint 1715 (so-named for the elevation – bring a jumper) and Doi Phu Kha Viewpoint.

Tip: this area around Route 1256 is a national park (although you don’t have to pay if you just drive through on the main road). It’s home to an incredibly rare tree, called Chompoo Phu Kha Tree (bretschneidera sinensis), apparently only found here in Nan and a few other places in east Asia. During February-March time, they have these distinctive pink flower bunches, so if you pass through during those months, stop in for a look.

Timing: if you didn’t get the time yesterday, check out the waterfall, cafes and salt mine before leaving Sapan. If not, hang around in Sapan, watch the clouds clear (hopefully), and have a leisurely breakfast at your hotel or a cafe.

If you’re a fast traveller and are totally on schedule, you could choose to skip Pua and head directly on to Phayao as this is the least busy day on the itinerary. However, that would be a bit of a pity since the town is probably the most chill of all on the route.

Views from Phu Kha Viewpoint 1715, of the lush green countryside hills and mountains beneath a lightly cloudy, blue sky. — Phu Kha Viewpoint 1715

Crazy Detour

We did a bit of an extra crazy road trip all the way north up the famous Route 1081 to the Huai Kon border crossing with Laos, purely because the roads looked wiggly on the map (it’s as good a reason as any, right?).

The drive is kind of crazy, because there’s literally nothing the entire way. I think we passed maybe a couple of cars coming towards us and that’s it for several hours.

There’s not really much to see, specifically, but the route is pretty! Weirdly, you get to the border with Laos and suddenly you’re on the 101 – a vast, brand-new multi-lane highway (still with almost no cars). It was a cool, but weird, afternoon.

The round trip drive from Sapan up to Laos and down to Pua took us about four hours. I have no idea if I’d recommend it – probably would, but only if you’re a major road trip enthusiast or keen biker, like we are.
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Lunch in Pua

If you’re hungry on arrival in Pua, consider heading for lunch at:

Cocoa Valley Resort – I’m a slut for desserts, so obviously ended up in chocolate world. This spot is magic and I loved everything I ate along with the entire vibe (did you know you can also stay overnight here and they have chocolate decorated bathtubs?).

Huanam Mushroom Farm – this is for anyone who isn’t totally into chocolate (heathens). It’s a mushroom farm (hence the name), with amazing fungi-based dishes (don’t worry, they have other food, too), served in a nice rural setting.

Ban Tai Lue Café – a more traditional Thai coffee stop, with touristy (but photogenic) views, buffalo, and wanders through rice fields. It’s a nice place to visit in combination with the mushroom farm (they’re nearby each other) if you’re wanting a crafty coffee and some locally made souvenirs.

A chocolate brownie served on a gold rimmed plate with a large scoop of ice cream. — CHOCOLATE

Afternoon: Wat Sri Mongkol

This large temple, just outside Pua, is one of the most entertaining places I’ve been in a while. It’s crazy and I’m one-hundred percent sure it’s designed to be a Thai tourism hotspot.

There are photo ops, everywhere. Giant hilarious horse statues, cute benches, fake fog: it’s all entertainment. In between all of that is a beautiful temple, but let’s be honest, most people are visiting to pose next to the enormous horses.

A visitor standing next to a large horse statue at Wat Sri Mongkol Temple near Nan. — I’m sorry about this

Brilliant gold and white temple architecture at Wat Sri Mongkol in Pua. — Wat Sri Mongkol

Sunset: Wat Phuket

Wat Phuket, in Pua, is not a particularly stand out temple, yet I loved it.

It’s set on a hill overlooking rice terraces and I absolutely adored the vibes at sunset. We’d recommend heading down for a peaceful half hour before going for dinner.

Leave your car or bike in the school parking lot outside.

Cows in a grassy field around the Thai town of Pua. — Views from Wat Phuket

Dinner Options in Pua

Pua was the one place we didn’t find any super exciting food options (apart from the chocolate and mushroom places above).

Neither of those choices are open in the evening, so for dinner one night we went to Muanjai Restaurant, which had terrible pizza but decent Thai food. The other place we went to is now temporarily closed, but had very average Thai food – nothing to write home about.

If you’re there during a Friday or Saturday, pop via the small Huen Pua Night Market and grab some sai ua – northern Thai sausage (my favourite Thai food before I was vegetarian).

Or, just fill up on chocolate products at lunch.

Views of a lake and the village of Pua at a misty morning sunrise. — PuaDeView’s room views

A temple building beside fields in the countryside near Pua, Thailand. — Views from Wat Phuket

Where to Stay

We stayed in the family-owned PuaDeView Boutique Resort, which was modern, value for money, and comfortable, but it’s big selling factor are the views and pool. The vistas are magnificent, stretching across farmland to the mountains. Sunsets and sunrises here were worth the stay alone.

Take a look at PuaDeView room availability and check out the views!

A cutely decorated double bedroom at PuaDeView Hotel with towel art and a small balcony seating area with views of the Thai town of Pua. — PuaDeView

Day 7: Pua to Phayao

Direct distance: Pua to Phayao: 3.5 hours, 187 kilometres

Today, we head back in the direction of Chiang Mai via the pretty town of Phayao.

I loved Phayao.

It’s a lakeside town with a really vibrant waterfront, super affordable hotels, a nice walking street and, you guessed it, some excellent pizza!

Tip: if you’re running out of days at this point, you can race back to Chiang Mai – it takes around 5.5 hours by car if you go direct. However, Phayao is such a nice place to spend an evening – we’d recommend a stop!

A fisherman rowing their boat along Phayao Lake with a Naga statue in the foreground. — Phayao Lake from nearby our hotel

Along the Drive

This drive is really pretty. I kind of thought that because we were leaving Nan, the roads wouldn’t be so nice, but I was wrong. Turns out that Route 1148, connecting Pua and Phayao, is a wiggly, scenic, biker favourite!

Along Route 1148 is Phu Lang Ka. This pretty valley has large karst rocks just sort of plonked in the middle and there are views for miles. Some of the best vistas (of the entire trip!) are from Route 1148 Cafe & Baan Talay Mok, which is a very popular biker stop with nice drinks and a great place to chill. It’s madly photogenic.

This area is famous for its inverted seas of clouds. We visited during the day so didn’t see them, but if you’re interested in spending the night, there’s the Insta-tastically popular Magic Mountain Camp, which has a handful of exquisite accommodations on the side of the mountain from which you can watch the sunrise. Check out their cafe, too! Reserve a room via their Facebook link.

Wooden housing options at Magic Mountain Camp, set on the green hillside at Phu Langka. — Magic Mountain Camp

Giant famous rock formation at Phu Langka, set among green fields with a mountain backdrop. — Route 1148 Cafe & Baan Talay Mok

Bonus Optional Day: Phu Chi Fa

If you loved the idea of camping previously on this itinerary at Doi Samer Dao – here’s another chance! Only it’s technically in Laos (kind of).

Phu Chi Fa is a big mountain cliff-type thing that literally overhangs Laos’ border and is an extremely popular place to camp for morning sunrises and inverted cloud views (or you can stay in a nearby hotel).

If you’re interested, it’s a great night to tag on between Pua and Phayao – it’s a 3.5-hour drive from Pua and a 2-hour drive from Phayao.
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Wat Nantaram and Wat Phra Nang Din

These are just a few temples along the route where we stopped to stretch out a bit.

Wat Nantaram is an old Burmese-style teak temple with a small museum in it (quite different to most others we’ve visited).

Wat Phra Nang Din is a more traditional temple, but does have a Buddha that is sitting directly on the floor and not a pedestal (hence the name ‘Phra Nang Din‘ which means ‘Buddha sitting on the ground’). I personally found the giant decorative golden stupa pretty impressive here, too.

If you’re all templed out by this point, take a look at some pictures and decide if they’re worth a stop for you.

I personally will always go out of my way for a temple, so I’m biased.

Dark wooden roofing of a Burmese style Thai Buddhist temple near Phayao. — Wat Nantaram

An ornate golden chedi with blue and green colour accents, gleaming in the bright Thai sunlight at Wat Phra Nang Din. — Wat Phra Nang Din

Evening in Phayao

The town of Phayao runs along the eastern side of Phayao Lake, which adds an unexpected chill to this little place. There are all sorts going on along the waterfront on Chaykwan Road, including musicians, disco balls, flowers and a big naga fountain in the lake.

We happened to visit during ‘Flora Fest’ – a local flower festival, and it was our best evening on this trip. Even without all the of the goings-on, it’s still a nice spot to watch the sunset over the lake, with small bars and restaurants, a few hotels and just a nice, lively (but local) vibe. Places we ate:

The Brick Oven Pizza: outstanding pizza with lovely ladies working there (I hope I’ve demonstrated my quality Thai-pizza credentials by now).

Nong Ping’s Not Boring Vegetarian Restaurant – we love a good veggie restaurant, and this one didn’t disappoint (in name or quality)! Super affordable, quality Thai food – even if you’re a meat eater.

Tha Kwan Walking Street (Fri/Sat only) – this wasn’t on while we were there (or if it was, I didn’t notice because I am forever enamoured by flowers), but it’s supposed to be a pretty good one.

A statue of a male dryad at Flora Fest, along the Phayao walking street. — Flora-Fest!

A lakeside Naga statue at sunset, with water coming from its mouth and from water jets behind. — Naga Fountain at sunset

Where to Stay

We stayed along the lakefront in the Phuglong Hotel. It was mega-affordable, had a decent breakfast, easy off-street parking (which is very useful on the waterfront), modern rooms, and an unbeatable location just a few minutes from the walking street.

It’s nearby the Hop Inn – which I’ve mentioned before is another perfect basic motel for these types of trips.

Have a look at the Phuglong Hotel and it’s excellent reviews. Alternatively, take a peek at the exceptionally affordable Hop Inn.

Simply clean double bedroom with white tiled flooring and a small balcony. — Phuglong Hotel

A cheese and tomato pizza with fresh thai basil leaves, cut into sections. — The Brick Oven Pizza

Bonus Optional Day: Chiang Rai

Just a 1.5-hour drive north of Phayao is Chiang Rai.

This town is famous for its white and blue temples, amongst other things, but it’s also quite a nice town to hang out in for a night or two in its own right.

The last time were there, it happened to be during the Flower Festival, and the town was absolutely vibing and so much fun.

The area is also famous for the Golden Triangle – a historical region known for heroin crops and smuggling between Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Nowadays, people go to the Golden Triangle to see the borders of the three countries, and maybe visit an Opium Museum.

As always, there’s a Hop Inn (or two, actually) with central parking.
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A large crowd watching a performance at the flower festival in Chiang Rai. — Chiang Rai Flower Festival Events

Two rabbit toys sat on the basket of a hot air balloon display at the Flower Festival in Chiang Rai. — Forlorn rabbits in Chiang Rai

Day 8: Back to Chiang Mai

Direct distance: Phayao to Chiang Mai: 2.5 hours, 150 kilometres

So, the final drive takes you back into Chiang Mai, where you can continue exploring the region, or part with your trusty car or bike.

This drive back is pretty straightforward and we didn’t take many breaks. We had two major stops – an impeccable temple that is one of my all time favourites, and the famous sticky waterfalls which absolutely sucked.

So, if the sticky waterfalls have been on your to-do list, it’s possible to add them to your itinerary here on the way back and visit them in the afternoon. However, I’d really only recommend this if you’re not willing to budge, because it’s just so un-fun! I’ve included it on the map below so you can choose.

If you visit the sticky waterfalls, take the route via the 1150 and 1001. It’s more interesting and avoids driving directly through Chiang Mai and back again (there’s nothing I hate more than doubling back on myself during a road trip).

Wat Analayothipyaram

This temple is around a 20-minute drive west of Phayao and easy to visit on the way out towards Chiang Mai. We arrived there first thing in the morning (shockingly early) and it was one of the most eerie, but sort of peaceful, places I’ve been.

There was nobody there (probably some monks in the huts) so we just kept traipsing through the woods, coming across huge statues, a giant seated golden Buddha (just lurking in the forest), a towering brutal-looking stupa, and a fountain covered in baby statues and accompanying red Fanta (if you know, you know).

It was beautiful.

Entry: free

Where to Stay in Chiang Mai

Before (and after) your trip, we’d recommend getting a night in Chiang Mai. The Nimman district is our current go-to (there’s a tonne of incredible food around there) but we’ve also stayed in various other spots around the city. Below are our favourites:

U Nimman: the most comfortable hotel I’ve stayed in anywhere in Chiang Mai. The beds are a dream, the buffet breakfast is outstanding, the rooftop pool is vibey and the location is top-notch, right next to all the Nimman markets. Highly recommended if you can justify the room rate (or get a deal, like we did).

G Nimman: the coolest hotel we’ve stayed in, possibly anywhere! It’s this hyper-modern circular construction with a fascinating, unique room design that feels kind of like you’re in a spaceship. It also serves free wine, ice cream and snacks during happy hour, so I easily got my room rate back in beverages and food. The pool is absolutely incredible, too. Take a look at it for yourself – you’ll understand what I mean by cool (it’s going to be an Instagram favourite, if it’s not already!).

Moon Dragon Hotel: this is a super central hotel within the old town walls that’s often extremely good value for the room quality you’re getting. The Chiang Mai Sunday night market is right outside and everything in the old town is walkable. The pool is pretty epic, too.

Malee Hotel Chiang Mai: incredible value rooms in this central old town spot – we have extended our stay several times here because it was such a great little place. It’s modern, clean, super friendly and even has a couple of parking bays. The room rate is often way below what it should be, too.

A circular pool with reclining loungers inside the G Nimman hotel in Chiang Mai, Thailand. — G Nimman’s space-age Insta pool

A comfortable double bedroom at the U Nimman hotel in Chiang Mai, Thailand, — U Nimman’s mega-comfy rooms

Itinerary Summary

Below is a summary of this one-week-ish itinerary.

The stops in brackets are optional, so feel free to leave them out.

I’ve calculated both the direct driving times and distance between each overnight destination, so you can plan your road trip timings (although there are lots of stops on route so these will inevitably be longer). They all assume having a car, so if you’re on a bike it might be slower or faster, depending on how you ride (some people properly race around those road wiggles!).

I’ve also provided the driving times and distances if you want to include the optional stops and make the trip much longer (around 10-11 days).

Location	Driving Time	Distance from Previous (km)	Driving Time including optional stops (mins)	Distances including optional stops (km)	Number of Nights
Chiang Mai	–	–	–	–	–
Lampang	1h 45m	110	1h 45m	110	2
(Doi Samer Dao)	–	–	4h 10m	215	(1)
Nan	3h 20m	220	1h 20m	70	2
Sapan	2h 30m	100	2h 30m	100	1
Pua	1h 40m	60	1h 40m	60	1
(Phu Chi Fa)	–	–	4h 10m	200	(1)
Phayao	3h 30m	190	2h 10m	120	1
(Chiang Rai)	–	–	1h 30m	90	(1-2)
Chiang Mai	2h 30m	150	4h 30m	250	–

Google Map of the Nan Loop

Below is a Google Map containing everything on this itinerary. It’s colour-coded:

⬩ Dark blue: towns and cities on the loop
⬩ Magenta: optional locations
⬩ Gold: things to see
⬩ Red: food & drink suggestions
⬩ Green: hotel options
⬩ Blue line: driving route around this Nan Loop from Chiang Mai to Chiang Mai

Some Frequently Asked Questions

Can you do this route by public transport?

Yes, technically you can get to all the main cities on this route via public transport! There are regular (at least daily) bus routes between Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phayao, Nan, Phrae and Lampang. These can be booked via 12GoAsia. They don’t go to the smaller destinations like Sapan, or allow for exploration along the routes, though, obviously.

Can I do this route in less than a week?

You can definitely do this route in less than a week, without question. However, it will involve longer driving days and being more efficient with your time! We’d recommend cutting a night from Lampang and Pua or Sapan, then potentially racing back and maybe just stopping in Phayao for lunch (this would all suck a bit, though).

When is the best time to visit Nan?

The best time to drive the Nan loop is during the winter months between December and February. It’s the coolest season with the least rainfall. This is the best season to camp and hike to waterfalls, ride motorbikes and to take photos.

One thing to note is the smoky season, which is normally towards the end of February until sometime in April. It can be horrendous in northern Thailand during this period and I’d recommend avoiding it (although some years are significantly worse than others – so you never know what you’ll get).

The months between May and October/November get gradually wetter and can have grey skies, flooding that causes blocked roads, slippery roads which can be dangerous for motorbikes, and rivers and waterfalls that are too powerful to swim in. It can still be a good time to travel because prices are lower, but just be aware of the potential for rain to change your plans. On the plus side, you might get a load of cool fog!

Are ATMs available along the route?

Yes, many ATMs are available in every major town – even near Sapan (there’s one ATM in Bo Kluea).

Are gas/petrol stations regularly available?

Yes, gas stations are everywhere. There’s even a giant PTT Service Station near Bo Kluea.

If you decide to take any of the more rogue routes through the mountains, there will likely be no services until you hit a major town. Google Maps is pretty reliable for finding petrol, though. Don’t worry too much, just check your tank before leaving.

Is it better to do the Nan Loop by car or bike?

Oh, this is a difficult one.

Many of the twisty roads around Phayao and Nan really suit a motorbike. If you’re competent and have the gear, license, insurance, and experience, I’d recommend riding (remember to check out Cat Motors for your bike rental in Chiang Mai).

However, if you’re just an unlicensed dude who’s ridden a scooter around Koh Lanta and Ao Nang once, don’t do it. It’s much easier to drive a car, you’ll have rain protection, very little risk of accident/injury, and no problem with travel insurance. (Book your vehicle with Discover Cars to get reliable rental insurance).

If you’re experienced, but unlicensed (or forgot your IDP, for example), be aware that you can still get insurance (which is essential for riding in this area). Check out our insurance for motorbikes run-down.

I’d also suggest taking the weather into consideration – if it’s forecast to be heavy rain, I’d choose the car, every time (I’m fussy and hate rain).

Parking is easy with either vehicle type and rental prices are often actually slightly cheaper for a car. I think it honestly totally depends on your preferences and situation.

Where to Next?

I hope this has persuaded you to take an alternative trip around a lesser-visited part of Thailand. I’ve talked about it elsewhere, but this country is severely over-loved in some places, and entirely under-loved in others (like Nan!).

Most visitors won’t really get to see the typical Thai towns, villages and countryside if they only visit the gentrified parts of Chiang Mai, Phuket and Bangkok. It’s such a pity since so many people express their wish to do just that!

For ideas on less-crowded places in southern Thailand, take a look at our island hopping itinerary. It goes to a bunch of the lesser-populated spots, while also including the must-sees.

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