7. Kodachrome Basin State Park

Another Utah State Park for this list (there are three State Parks on Utah’s Scenic Byway 12, and all three are included in this post). Kodachrome basin is a genuine delight and one of my favourite state parks in the American Southwest. It’s compact, but has lots of trails, all intermingled in the dramatic landscape, which consists of 67 monolithic spire-like rocks. The canyon itself lives up to its name – with towering red and white cliffs that you can mountain bike, hike or even horseback ride through. It’s a really photogenic place that so many visitors miss!

The campground is a thing of beauty, too, with incredible showers and heated bathrooms (necessary, since the elevation is around 6000 feet, so it gets cold at night). All the sites are huge – we think this might be one of the best developed park campgrounds in Utah.

8. Drive Scenic Byway 12: All-American Road

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the most famous (and arguably most panoramic) road in the region. After all, some people visit this part of Utah just to drive this All-American road! We’ve traversed the route more times than we can count and still don’t get bored driving it.

The entirely paved route runs 123 miles from the U.S. 89, just west of Bryce Canyon National Park, to State Route 24, just west of Capitol Reef National Park, by Torrey. It connects two of Utah’s big five national parks, plus slices right across the absurdly beautiful Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, covering an enormous variety of landscapes.

Scenic Byway 12 is dotted with viewpoints, parks, hikes, small restaurants, and much more. It’s worth driving in its entirety, so at some point we’ll write an itinerary that hits all the marks.

9. Capitol Reef National Park

I won’t go into much detail here, but Capitol Reef is one of my favourite national parks. It is based around a huge, 100-mile long Waterpocket Fold (described as a wrinkle in the Earth by the National Park Service), which I think is magnificent. Everywhere you go, it’s in your view and, depending on the direction, backed by snowy peaked mountains. I overuse this word, I know, but it’s magic.

The park itself is really low key, with free backcountry permits, relatively uncrowded hikes and some easy-going viewpoints to suit any level of fitness. Don’t miss the Gifford House & Museum Store which sells amazing baked goods too (EAT ALL THE PIE).

Capitol Reef is at the far end of Scenic Byway 12, around 1.5 hours north of Escalante, so we’d suggest you stay in Torrey, a tiny town that I have a huge soft spot for. The park is also easily accessible from the Burr Trail, mentioned above. This alternate route takes you through the lesser visited southern section of Capitol Reef, where you can drive the Notom-Bullfrog Road north to the main area of the park (partly a dirt road). If you decide to visit, have a peek at our one perfect day in Capitol Reef itinerary.

For something even less visited, check out our adventure to the Temples of the Sun and Moon in the northern district of Capitol Reef.

So many people omit Capitol Reef from their Escalante Itinerary – don’t be one of them!

10. Mossy Cave Trail

Mossy Cave Trail is technically part of Bryce Canyon National Park (but outside the fee area). It’s a very short, but cute, photogenic walk along a river to a ‘cave’ (it’s not really a cave), but there is a nice waterfall at Tropic Ditch falls, some slightly odd-coloured river water and some excellent views from below of the famous Bryce Canyon hoodoos.

It’s a great quick stop (although the car park gets busy) and is ideal if you don’t want to pay to access Bryce Canyon proper (although, for this trip, you should definitely buy an America the Beautiful national park pass).

11. Hells Backbone Scenic Backway

Hells Backbone is a 38-mile (61-kilometre) long gravel road that winds behind Escalante, through the hills and over a famous bridge. The bridge, originally built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression, is a big draw to this driving loop. However, if you only have time for one route, choose the Burr Trail, it’s definitely more entertaining.

If you have a few hours spare and are tired of hiking, definitely drive this route. Parts of it are really pretty, plus there are a few nice campgrounds and a lake.

The road is suitable for all vehicle types when dry (we found this route very easy (and fast) to drive in an AWD vehicle). Check at the visitor centre to see if it is open – it’s often covered in snow.

12. Bryce Canyon National park

Bryce Canyon, one of the big five national parks in Utah, is a can’t-miss destination. I figure that since anybody reading this is interested in things to do in Escalante, they’ll be planning a trip to Bryce too!

Home to the world’s largest collection of hoodoos, Bryce Canyon’s amphitheaters are world renowned, and with disability-friendly access to almost all the viewpoints in the park, even if you’re unable to hike, this park offers up a lot of hoodoo fun! For people who can hike, the sinuous paths that twist around the pink and white hoodoo monoliths offer a unique experience, unmatched anywhere else. 

Although I consider Bryce Canyon the least adventurous of the big five national parks, it’s got a distinctive beauty that the other parks lack. This place is one of my favourite photography spots – especially late in the afternoon and evening. I never fail to pop in when passing by.

13. Grosvenor Arch

Grosvenor Arch is, without a doubt, one of the prettiest examples of an arch in Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. It’s situated down Cottonwood Canyon Road, an unpaved, partly graded route linking Highway 89 in the south, with Kodachrome Basin State Park to the north. The arch is near the northern end, which is convenient when coming from Escalante town. The final part of the drive is along a sandy track, but is not difficult to drive.

The 150-foot-high (45 metres) double arch, 10 miles down Cottonwood Canyon Road, is incredibly easy to access, with no hike and just a short, accessible, paved path.

14. The Cottonwood Narrows

This long, deep slot canyon along Cottonwood Canyon took me by surprise. It’s got all the typical water-worn, undulating, scalloped walls, with absolutely zero people.

It’s a great slot canyon to explore as there’s only a very short hike in, and the entire length runs along the road so you’re never really very far from the car. The Cottonwood Narrows hike length is only a few miles, depending on which trailhead you choose and how far you walk, but there is a variety of landscapes to explore here.

The best bit of the hike is hidden by the north trailhead and I think a lot of people miss it – go right first when you enter the canyon, not left.

Another decent hike along this road is Lower Hackberry Canyon, which is a bit longer than the Cottonwood Narrows and follows the river through a beautiful canyon (very few route markers, so be careful with this one). It’s pretty though.